[NecroFIesh]

We finally got around to installing the header and I wanted to share a few pics...

So the engine has quieted down quite a bit from being open header. There's minimal clearance between the header and sway bar, maybe an inch at best. I may look into a set of adjustable sway bar links if I need to but for now, it fits. We're going to get started with the RBC manifold, the Injen cold air intake and the K-Tuned fuel rail shortly. Updates to come soon...

-G

 

[yaggs]

Thanks for the update and for taking pics of the header install. That's some good info that isn't shared frequently enough. I think you've probably got enough clearance. Lookin good bro.
Btw, your thread plus my tax return = me buying parts for the swap. Still a ways off but i might start a thread here once all parts arrive. Hasport mounts are predicted to be at least a month away from shipping. I would bet even longer, but I'm willing to wait.
Keep those posts comin!

Edit: i just remembered what I wanted to ask you. Did u use the jdm starter or did u swap over the dc5 starter? If you used the jdm, is there any wiring mods necessary?

 

[NecroFIesh]

Thanks for the update and for taking pics of the header install. That's some good info that isn't shared frequently enough. I think you've probably got enough clearance. Lookin good bro.
Btw, your thread plus my tax return = me buying parts for the swap. Still a ways off but i might start a thread here once all parts arrive. Hasport mounts are predicted to be at least a month away from shipping. I would bet even longer, but I'm willing to wait.
Keep those posts comin!

Edit: i just remembered what I wanted to ask you. Did u use the jdm starter or did u swap over the dc5 starter? If you used the jdm, is there any wiring mods necessary?

Yeah, I agree. I always see posts that either say yeah it fits or no it doesn't fit but no real photos of why or why not. I know my pics aren't the best but I wanted to at least share a few so that others could get somewhat of an idea about the clearance. Keep in mind, these were taken with the car in the air so the sway bar had zero load with the wheels off the ground. I'm sure the clearance will be more once it's sitting on the ground, at which point I'll snap a few more if I can finagle my phone in there well enough....

I'm happy to hear that you're moving along with your build.

I swapped over all of my components from the RSX to the JDM block. It was much easier that way. Back soon with more updates on the manifold/intake/fuel rail install...

-G

 

[NecroFIesh]

Okay, I think an update is in order....

The K-Tuned fuel rail is installed with the tuck kit and center mount gauge along with the RDX 410cc injectors. I also used the K-Tuned fuel injector clip kit to ease the process...

The Hybrid Racing 64mm throttle body adapter is bolted to the stock Type-S t-body which is mated to the RBC intake manifold on one end and to the Injen cold air intake on the other. I used all new OEM t-body gaskets from both the K20a2 and K20z3 as well as the Hondata intake manifold gasket for the RBC. Here's the issue...

The intake tube is coming into contact with the counter weight on the shifter cable. First gear will grind unless you really punch it in there and so I need to readjust the whole set up. I was stupid and didn't have the car in 5th gear when installing the intake and so now I've got clearance issues. I also plan on removing the stock battery mount plate that's on the frame to get better space down there. I've heard that's a thing so want to try it. I've already had to remove the battery tray because it was so tight fitting.

I have a check engine light on for the primary o2 sensor, probably bad. Those suckers are expensive too so....

I'm hoping to get back at it this week and fix the clearance issue and also to get a new sensor coming. I'll post up again soon with pics of everything.

-G

 

[Bjorn]

The intake tube is coming into contact with the counter weight on the shifter cable.

I chopped that counter weight right off my civic. Never ran it with the weight for comparison but i can't fault it when driving without it.

 

[yaggs]

The intake tube is coming into contact with the counter weight on the shifter cable. First gear will grind unless you really punch it in there and so I need to readjust the whole set up. I was stupid and didn't have the car in 5th gear when installing the intake and so now I've got clearance issues. I also plan on removing the stock battery mount plate that's on the frame to get better space down there. I've heard that's a thing so want to try it. I've already had to remove the battery tray because it was so tight fitting.

That rbc mani points just enough the wrong way to give u trouble, but i think you should be able to clock it or manipulate it enough to make it work. I wouldn't think you should have to touch the battery tray tho? Unless the rbc sticks out more than the prb? In for an answer there if you don't mind. I've never seen an rsx battery tray modified. Maybe your thinking about my post talking about rotating it? That was a hypothetical idea but lmk if you go that route!

I would be super interested in any pics/documentation of your process to make your intake work. I really appreciate your blazing the trail for me and others!

 

[NecroFIesh]

I chopped that counter weight right off my civic. Never ran it with the weight for comparison but i can't fault it when driving without it.

Gotcha, I did think about doing that but only briefly. I want that nice, crisp and solid feeling to my shifts. The purpose of the counterweight is to reduce stress on the cables and prolong their use. OEM cables are really expensive these days. That said, I'm also aware of plenty of guys removing the counterweights on their cables and having no issues. This goes for Honda and Volkswagen, not sure about other makes....

That rbc mani points just enough the wrong way to give u trouble, but i think you should be able to clock it or manipulate it enough to make it work. I wouldn't think you should have to touch the battery tray tho? Unless the rbc sticks out more than the prb? In for an answer there if you don't mind. I've never seen an rsx battery tray modified. Maybe your thinking about my post talking about rotating it? That was a hypothetical idea but lmk if you go that route!

I would be super interested in any pics/documentation of your process to make your intake work. I really appreciate your blazing the trail for me and others!

Yeah, I'm just gonna readjust it and see where we're at afterward. The RBC definitely extends outward more than the PRB. There's a small amount of space between the edge of the manifold and the frame rail, even in the DC5 chassis. It was much worse in my Integra...

I'll illustrate the process in a bit to give you guys an insight into how it works.

-G

 

[yaggs]

How's it coming along? Did u manage to make the intake work with the shifter?

 

[NecroFIesh]

How's it coming along? Did u manage to make the intake work with the shifter?

I did, it was simply a matter of adjusting the intake tube with the shift lever in 5th gear during the re-install. I have plenty of clearance now. It was such a straight forward process that I just knocked it out and forgot about taking any pics...

A couple more updates...I bought all new OEM motor mounts and hardware for the car. Hasport has a 4 week backorder from date of purchase and I need the car to pass VA safety inspection as well as emissions within the next week so that I can put plates on this thing. I also got a new primary o2 sensor and will be installing that shortly...

I also bought a new OEM passenger side door lock actuator as it had failed. Installing that soon as well.

I bought modified X-clips for my HID set up in the black housing head lamps, ETA on those is today to my house. I had a stash of super bright LED bulbs hidden away from my old EK hatch that I never used and a lot of them matched up to the RSX. I'll be installing those when the adapters are here.

Back soon with more!

-G

 

[NecroFIesh]

Just went for a drive around the dealership with the new o2 sensor installed, car pulls very strong through all gears. A/F ratio is right within 12.6 - 12.8. I'm going to make some basic adjustments in K-Manager and then contact my tuner. More to come soon,

-G

 

[LotusElise]

...A/F ratio is right within 12.6 - 12.8...

Good to read. Do those came from the first Wideband or from the other one, which has a remote-piping?

 

[NecroFIesh]

Good to read. Do those came from the first Wideband or from the other one, which has a remote-piping?

Yes indeed! That reading came from the primary(first) wideband sensor.

-G

 

[yaggs]

A/F ratio is right within 12.6 - 12.8.

Damn son, that's a pretty good base map!

 

[LotusElise]

Yes indeed! That reading came from the primary(first) wideband sensor.

Thanks for your feedback. Looks like a good calibration to drive to the tuner.

What purpose the more downstreams located-remote-wideband does have? Is it for an additional dash input? I am curious how these two compare during a DD drive with WOT sections. Would you mind to share this if this would be possible for you to overlay in a log or video, showing both outputs in one video?