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Frankenstein's Monster K20/24 RSX-S

3098 Views 68 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  NecroFIesh
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Sup guys, I'm in the middle of my 2nd swap right now...this one is a K20/24 Frank into an RSX chassis. Figured I'd start a thread detailing the build before it's too late. I'm just about ready to mount the motor to the chassis at this point...this is gonna be pic heavy so get your popcorn....

I bought an '02 RSX-S earlier this year. The seller brought it to the dealership with the motor locked up. She was a middle aged woman who had bought it for her son a few years back. Apparently, the son wasn't aware that driving the piss out of the car and not keeping up with oil changes tends to cause problems. I negotiated the blue book value of the car minus the cost of a new engine and took delivery early last May...

I got the oil pan off and soon realized the issue - rod bearing seized in cylinder 3. I removed all bearings, inspected the crank and looked for any other damage. Surprisingly, the crank was barely touched and the oil in the pan had zero metallic flake. The screen in the spool valve filter was also clear of anything so I thought I must've gotten lucky. I know I should've replaced the crank but considering replacement bearings were readily available and OEM cranks are stupid expensive, I opted for the former and replaced bearings only. The motor turned over super smooth by hand and once everything was bolted back up, the car fired right up. It got to temperature and idled fine, no codes present but had audible rod knock at about 2300 rpm in the same cylinder as the seized bearing. I was surprised the sensor didn't pick this up but figured at this point, let's do a swap and so now here we are...

Here's the car - 2002 Type-S in Nighthawk Black pearl with full OEM A-spec kit.....

Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle



Here's the motor - 2005 JDM K24a 3 lobe from HMotorsonline.com...

Road surface Chair Rectangle Wood Gas

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Shout out to Steve at HMotorsonline for the clean K24a. I highly recommend sourcing your engine from a trusted and reliable provider that's been in the game for over 20 years like these guys. The only catch was the wait time to receive the motor as it was just over a month for it to ship and arrive to me here in VA from Cali. The motor is super clean and came overpacked and strapped to a pallet as seen above. It's also in amazing condition as you'll see in the photos to follow...stay tuned.

-G
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Thanks for sharing your pictures from the Frankenstein-swap, very nice!

I have an AP2 and am no stranger to the K series as can be seen in my sig below...
I would love if you post some pictures of the engine bay of that ride too. The F20C1 engine is always nice to see, especially in an enginebay :). Did you sell your K-swapped DC2?

Here are some more pics of us prepping the K20 to come out....
It lasts over 11 years in that car, didn't it?
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The driving experience in that chassis is second to none.
Here in Europe many use it as track car because of the almost 50/50 balance of front to rear.

One of my favorite cars and a lot of blood, sweat and tears went into that build. I still miss it...
Yeap, that chassis is unique and today it is a legend. Here in Germany these come quite expensive, with a K-series in it you need a good stand to keep up with those prices.

Well, let's see..it was a MY 2002 and the motor seized earlier this year so...20 years it lasted.
That's amazing (y).

Thanks to everyone commenting and taking the time to view the thread. More to follow in 2023, everyone have a happy and safe new year.
Same to you, a happy and safe new year.
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We used to call those fender guards (fender covers).
You mean from the Guitar company Fender? Legendary guitar maker, the blues and country scene may would not happen without Fender 😉.
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...A/F ratio is right within 12.6 - 12.8...
Good to read. Do those came from the first Wideband or from the other one, which has a remote-piping?
Yes indeed! That reading came from the primary(first) wideband sensor.
Thanks for your feedback. Looks like a good calibration to drive to the tuner.

What purpose the more downstreams located-remote-wideband does have? Is it for an additional dash input? I am curious how these two compare during a DD drive with WOT sections. Would you mind to share this if this would be possible for you to overlay in a log or video, showing both outputs in one video?
Reminds me on the legendary ghost car of...


Very nice, like KITT of the series Knight Rider. How much ride height under the bottom do you have now? Are there any rules for a minimum riding height in your location? Here we have >130 mm to be street legal. Mine is actually on 70 mm, causing some issues on construction sites on street or other obstacles like 2 Euro coins 😂.
plus I've never had hood dampers before so I'm amped to get these installed...
Very nice. Thanks for using "amped", which nice new word for enforced or motivated (so my assumption), sound's like someone is ampered, flown through by (el.) power by something or just electrified. Are my assumptions correct?

These seem to be very well crafted, quality stainless steel dampers.
The package eye catcher states these are "Stianless Steel...", is that a typo on a package documentation? Or does their stainless steel have a brand name stianless steel?
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Hello Greg, welcome with your new profile at the forum. Do you need a password reset for the old one?

Your assumptions are correct, I use amped as a synonym for excited sometimes. Comes from growing up and playing music where when everyone was ready to jam we’d say “let’s amp up”.
Wow, nice. What kind of music you jammed in? I was 20 years in folk music, playing a trumpet, just swapped it for more sport and learning and because of the people around me weren't interested in that kind of music.

The “Stianless” word is indeed misspelled on the package.
Maybe it is a one man show and the guy is too busy to have someone to have a 2nd look on it? I hope the quality inside is better then outside ;).
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