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Hey guys. Im currently in the process of swapping my Eg and I have been running into millions of questions. Thanks to the guys at k20a.org because they have the patience and ambition to always help someone out. So here is my turn to try and help someone. One of the things I couldnt wrap my head around was how to wire my charge harness for my eg. So I bought a charge harness and took it apart to broke it down for everyone :up:

Rsx type s charge harness complete and labeled.



Here is what the actual charge harness consist of. The rest of the plugs you see on the "harness" itsself plug into the engine harness.

You need 3 wires, (i believe oem uses 4 gauge)

1)One wire will go from the battery to the starter motor.
2)Second wire will go from the battery to the fuse box
3) Third wire will go from your stock fuse box to the alternator




Starter wire:



Your positive wire should look something like the d-series stock harness. You need a 4 gauge wire to go from the Battery to the Starter and a 4 gauge wire from the Battery to the Fuse box. You can cut the the d-series charge harness and crimp the power wire to starter to the power wire for the starter on the k series charge harness to extend it. I plan to make a new one so i dont have to crimp.




Alternator wire + Knock Sensor. Knock sensor will be on the end where the Starter Motor and Solenoid are.





Dont forget the Ground Wire from the Battery to the Chassis:up:








Updated 2/14/12
So this is the summary:
4 gauge wire (Battery to Starter)
4 gauge wire (Battery to Fuse Box)
4 gauge wire (Fuse Box to Alternator)
2 gauge (Negative battery terminal to Chassis)

Diagram



Updated 6-23-12
Couple shots of my charge harness I made:












These are the terminals I used for the FUSE BOX and the ALTERNATOR (I used 3, 2 for FUSE BOX and 1 for ALTERNATOR
Stinger 4 Gauge Ring Terminals (1/4") Hole ( 2 Pair )


These are the terminals I used for the STARTER (I only need 1 but it was a pack of 2)
Monster 200 Crimpable Ring Terminals (4-gauge, 3/8-Inch Stud)


This was the crimper I used

Hobart 770122 Lug Crimper



Thanks k20a.org :up:
 

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Good write up! This should help a lot of people out :up:
 

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I was starting to work on my charge harness today and had questions too. Thanks for the info! :up:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good write up! This should help a lot of people out :up:
very clean and organized. ill be using this for reference.. :up:
I was starting to work on my charge harness today and had questions too. Thanks for the info! :up:

Thank you gentlemen :up:

Great info! Any pics of this tucked?
No sorry. I will run mine behind the motor so you cant see it.

Nice write up. Thanks!!!!
Thank you :up:
 

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I got a K20R swap (HMO) on the garage floor right now. Its going in a 92 EG. When you ran the charge harness.....you only extended the 4 gauge that goes from the starter to battery and battery to fuse box (which are very close to each other right?) So leave all the lines that plug into starter/alt/knock the length they came and run the 4 gauge to the battery (power and ground) over the trans and onto the firewall to the battery.....right? Or.....wrong :(
 

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I got a K20R swap (HMO) on the garage floor right now. Its going in a 92 EG. When you ran the charge harness.....you only extended the 4 gauge that goes from the starter to battery and battery to fuse box (which are very close to each other right?) So leave all the lines that plug into starter/alt/knock the length they came and run the 4 gauge to the battery (power and ground) over the trans and onto the firewall to the battery.....right? Or.....wrong :(
Im not extending the charge harness. I didnt want to crimp or solder 4 guage wire. I read on hondata its not recommended.
I took apart the charge harness to

1)remove the starter/altenator/knock sensor from it and plugged into the engine harness
2)run a 4 gauge wire (Battery to Starter)
run a 4 gauge wire (Battery to Fuse Box)
run a 4 gauge wire (Fuse Box to Alternator)
3) 2 guage ground from negative battery terminal to chassis

:up:
 

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I apologize.....I meant new lines that are longer. I totally understand 'extending' the lines would be a poor decision. Therefore.....my word choice was poor :silly:

How did you route the alternator line? On the timing chain side?

And you found the correct fittings for the fuse box at a parts store?
 

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I apologize.....I meant new lines that are longer. I totally understand 'extending' the lines would be a poor decision. Therefore.....my word choice was poor :silly:

How did you route the alternator line? On the timing chain side?

And you found the correct fittings for the fuse box at a parts store?
fittings as in wire terminals/connectors? Im getting them online. The battery terminals you can get at pretty much any parts store. You can route the alternator cable on the timing side just make sure it wont contact the belt. And dont run it too tight as you have to compensate for engine movement. Dont want to snap any wiring :up:

Heres a couple fuse box terminals/connectors



 

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So, by the connectors you just showed me. you are saying you didn't use connectors like OEM at the fuse box? They have those 90 degree bends.

EDIT: I was out of town and finally got to look at the way it connects tot he fuse box. Looks like regular crimp fittings will work well.

I am counting 20-24ft of 8 gauge all together for the starter and alternator to the fuse box and battery. Ouch.....incidentals are killing me!
 

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In you pictures you swapped the starter and alternator power cables.

Power goes from starter to battery to fuse box
Alternator goes directly to fuse box
The cables pictured are already that way no need to cut or crimp any connectors.

What you showed as the positive battery terminal to starter is actually the battery ground cable. It needs to ground the battery to the fram and also the transmission housing. The transmission housing is where the starter is bolted in and where it want to get a good ground to run its motor. You can also wire from the transmission housing to the frame instead of the battery and provide this ground.

The starter to battery cable, imho, does not need any upgrade to larger cable. The 6 guage that honda uses obviously get the job done so larger between the starter and battery serves no purpose. However you could consider increasing the cable size on the section that runs from the battery to the fuse box, read below.

If you are running power from the battery for a stereo amp I question why you should not wire the alternator directly to the battery (like the starter cable) and use bigger wire. The way honda does it is run to the fuse box and then back out the fuse box up the starter cable to get to the battery. The weak link being the fuse box and it's connectors. But it would not hurt to run bigger wire from the alternator in any case.

In the rsx there is something called ELD that measures current being drawn from the system and I suppose that is why the alternator first runs to the fuse box.
 

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Im completely :confused:

Im sitting here charge harness in hand and mocked up... and see no reason why i have to cut anything. If you completely disassemble an RSX-S charge harness, and you plan to leave the battery and fusebox in the OEM location, there is NO need to cut or add to ANY wires.

Just mod the ends of each gold connector that goes into the fuse box per HR's instructions. The rest is plug and play. You can even use the cool red plastic cover for the positive terminal...
 

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If you completely disassemble an RSX-S charge harness, and you plan to leave the battery and fusebox in the OEM location, there is NO need to cut or add to ANY wires.

Just mod the ends of each gold connector that goes into the fuse box per HR's instructions. The rest is plug and play. You can even use the cool red plastic cover for the positive terminal...
I totally agree. I figured this out when I tried to run the two 6 gauge lines threw 2 runners in the IM and to the battery. I cut the ends and drilled some holes. Worked nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No need to cut anything. Im making a separate charge harness so i integrated the sensors from the charge harness into the engine harness.
 

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On the EP idler bracket there is a bolt hole used for the throttle cable bracket. Im putting a bracket there to hold my 'charge harness' containing the alternator and the starter wires only. There will be another on the strut tower to hold it as well.

I did integrate my alternator/starter solenoid/knock sensor wires into the engine harness. There WAS too much slack there for my taste... but soldering/heatshrink/wrapping those is a much cleaner/easier task than big ol battery wire.



 
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