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Do one or both of those switches need to be connected for it do drive correctly or are they just to make sure that it won't crank without the clutch pushed down? Not sure if these ECUs use clutch position for something.
One reads if the clutch is fully pressed which then allows starting. The other reads if the clutch is fully released which allows for cruise control. That is all they are used for.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
One reads if the clutch is fully pressed which then allows starting. The other reads if the clutch is fully released which allows for cruise control. That is all they are used for.
Awesome, thank you! I don't need the clutch safety switch or cruise control, so don't need them. If I decide I want cruise control later I can wire that switch in then.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Update- I just checked that diagram and my chassis harness has all the wires on the diagram except the reverse light wires, which will not be too hard for me to figure out. However, my harness has extra wires that aren’t on the diagram. For example, I have wires in positions 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, and 15, none of which are on the diagram. Not sure what those wires are for, possibly something not needed for the EP3 harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Update- Still not sure what those extra wires are for. However, repinning just the CMP, VSS, ECT, and Relay Ground seems to have worked, at least to some extent. I plugged the harness into the the K20 ECU I have as well as plugging the ECU and C101 into the car and the ECU is alive and functional, it was showing sensor readings and codes for the stuff that was not connected. Only thing I need to wire now is the o2 sensor, which I will worry about once the motor is in the car and running.

The only differences were that the K20 harness has 2 ECT wires going into 1 pin while the D17 harness just has 1. Not sure what the reason is but it doesn’t seem to matter, the ECU reads temp correctly and the gauge moved when I heated the sensor with a lighter. The K20 harness also has 2 wires for the relay ground pin, but as far as I can tell that doesn’t seem to matter either.
 

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Update- Still not sure what those extra wires are for. However, repinning just the CMP, VSS, ECT, and Relay Ground seems to have worked, at least to some extent. I plugged the harness into the the K20 ECU I have as well as plugging the ECU and C101 into the car and the ECU is alive and functional, it was showing sensor readings and codes for the stuff that was not connected. Only thing I need to wire now is the o2 sensor, which I will worry about once the motor is in the car and running.

The only differences were that the K20 harness has 2 ECT wires going into 1 pin while the D17 harness just has 1. Not sure what the reason is but it doesn’t seem to matter, the ECU reads temp correctly and the gauge moved when I heated the sensor with a lighter. The K20 harness also has 2 wires for the relay ground pin, but as far as I can tell that doesn’t seem to matter either.
Nice, I’ve actually never thought of testing the sensors with a seperate heat source 😅
 
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