I've been having problems with my k swap for 2 months now. Started off with swapping immobiliser and using a k tuned conversion harness, it would start and run but dies when you give it throttle. Moved on to swapping out the whole dash harness and the engine bay harness to rule out any wiring difference between the EP2 and EP3 as I needed to swap the dash fusebox to get it to start. Didn't fix it. Ended up buying a new o2 sensor, cam sensors, crank pos sensor, knock sensor was changed before the engine was swapped in, inertia switch was checked, getting fuel. Still no difference. After that I ended up buying a K Pro same problem car would start but rough idle and can't give it throttle. Changed the tps sensor, checked the throttle body didn't have leaks, all the sensors on the throttle body is new. Calibrated the TPS in K Pro. Same problem. Bought an AEM wideband wired it pos to cig lighter, ground to chassis, analog input to 0 on the K Pro ground to the last pin on the end clearly labelled ground. Wideband reads fine in K Pro however the gauge will be off by 2:1 K Pro reading 15:1 for example gauge is reading 17:1 in K Pro it states if you have to input a negative voltage offset then the ground needs checked which I done even tried the chassis under the dash and the intake manifold. MAP sensor is reading -24 psi crank it goes to -2 psi and stays there. So what I'm dealing with right now is a crank no start. Made sure it was getting spark took a plug out grounded it cranked and seen a strong spark, plugs are also wet so it's getting fuel. Took the fuel rail off and aimed it away from the engine bay to watch what the spray pattern is like to make sure it's not dripping spraying just fine not really a mist of fuel not an expert with injectors and how the spray pattern should look. When cranking the cam position reads 0 but jumps to 107 when I stop cranking. Before this I made sure the timing was fine and both cams line up. Timing chain, tensioner and guides are all brand new. The injector pulse is around 30 ms which doesn't seem right as it's been around 22ms before when it would start and run confirmed it by looking at other people's datalogs on this forum and Hondata's forum. Also engine grounds are all new wiring. Ground from the valve cover to chassis, idler bracket to radiator support, gearbox to chassis. Moved the injector grounds which I'm sure is the ground for the ECU is grounded to the side of the head just next to the cam sensors could this cause interference I'm not sure. I've been working on cars for 6 years I'm no expert but I did manage to do this whole project by myself swapping engines over the whole lot.
What else should I check or does anyone know what this problem is because I'm really stumped it's getting on my nerves I don't want to give up I've put thousands into this project. Clean Type R's are hard to come by in the UK unless your willing to spend well over 5k, was let down when I bought my Type R to find it all rotten under the side skirts and bumpers etc instant MOT fail.