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Engine mount questions

589 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  fresh_manny21
Hey guys, I have been hanging around the forum for a while now, and am finally able to get serious about doing a k swap!

I have been reading and wacthing others build threads with great intrest, but theres still quite a few things that I'm not sure about, so here goes, and please bea with my noob-ness :eek:

All questions are in reagrds to a k20a2 into an EK.

What is the engine position difference with the usage of Hasport EKK1 and EKK2 mounts, and Hybrid racing ones? Someone mentioned that the EKK2 mounts sit the motor further back in the engine bay but I have worrys with Oil pan clearance and hood clearance.

Does it make a difference that it will be in a RHD vehicle? In terms of brake prop valve and master cylinders and what not on the firewall....

How easy and would it be worth my time running a dry sump to get around oil pan clearence issues?

I have more questions, but they don't spring to mind right this second, so I'll ask them when they pop up.

Thanks in advance
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What is the engine position difference with the usage of Hasport EKK1 and EKK2 mounts, and Hybrid racing ones? Someone mentioned that the EKK2 mounts sit the motor further back in the engine bay but I have worrys with Oil pan clearance and hood clearance.
The EKK1 kit is fine... many many people go this route. I would imagine that this kit gets purchased more than the EKK2 kit for the simple fact that it is the less expensive route, they are simple to install, and they satisfy a majority of consumers needs.

The difference, though I have never actually measured, seems to be an inch or two at the most rearward using the EKK2 kit. You do get better axle alignment and slightly better hood clearance but no better ground clearance. The hood clearance is better because the hood-line slopes forward and being you are moving the engine back... you gain a little.

If you have "worries" about oil pan clearance dont do the swap or RAISE YOUR CAR. If you like to roll around in the weeds this swap is not for you! I like an aggressive stance and I hate gaps in the fender well so I opted to run the less popular 17 rim to gain some ground clearance and fill the fender well without dumping the car, damaging suspension components, and sacrificing ride quality.

Fallowing measurements will differ by tire brand...

17" w/ 205-40-17 = 23.55" overall diameter
16" w/ 205-40-16 = 22.45"
15" w/ 205-50-15 = 23.00"

Does it make a difference that it will be in a RHD vehicle? In terms of brake prop valve and master cylinders and what not on the firewall....
Either choice you end up making will be fine. I've seen both kits used on RHD's

How easy and would it be worth my time running a dry sump to get around oil pan clearance issues?
Not easy and no way... you would be the first person (I know of) that went dry sump to avoid clearance issues in a street car. The process is drawn out, elaborate, and expensive. The parts are bulky and there is very little room to run all the equipment without making adjustments and compromises to where other items are located.
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