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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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What’s going on guys. I’m at the point of ordering my engine harness for my swap into my EK. Of course when you go on eBay there’s a bunch of companies selling harnesses. What are some experiences with these cheaper harnesses? Any recommendations? Thanks
 

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View attachment 105326 What’s going on guys. I’m at the point of ordering my engine harness for my swap into my EK. Of course when you go on eBay there’s a bunch of companies selling harnesses. What are some experiences with these cheaper harnesses? Any recommendations? Thanks
Oem is the most trustworthy in my opinion. The swap is looking great.
 

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Even the more expensive tucked aftermarket harnesses can have problems. My best advice is to find a clean oem harness and make whatever modifications to it yourself or by someone you know and trust to do it properly. You can diy even with no experience if you just have patience and label all your shit and take the time to mock everything up exactly where it goes.
 

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Thanks bro. Lots of work as you already know. I completely agree about the oem but they’re just so damn ugly 🤣🤣
The little bit of the engine harness you can see will be mainly covered by your turbo parts. It naturally will want to run along the firewall and heater hoses.
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All I did was separate and pull the injector wiring up through the RBC and take the oem loom off to re wrap in friction tape. You would just need heat sheath to protect it by your manifold runners and firewall.you could redo it to run over the valve cover instead of the oem route as well to keep it away from the heat.
 

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OEM, if you use a Doctronic or KPro or other plug and play ECU, there are very little to no changes required. The injector plugs are likely the biggest change.
Doctronic and others also sell the E and C101 plug and pins if you build your own conversion harness.
I converted my Lotus ELise Rover engine harness this way into a conversion harness. The Honda OE loom just plugs in plus one single splice wire to plug into the OE harness for the alternator lamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The little bit of the engine harness you can see will be mainly covered by your turbo parts. It naturally will want to run along the firewall and heater hoses. View attachment 105330
All I did was separate and pull the injector wiring up through the RBC and take the oem loom off to re wrap in friction tape. You would just need heat sheath to protect it by your manifold runners and firewall.you could redo it to run over the valve cover instead of the oem route as well to keep it away from the heat.
That looks good 🤔 which harness did you get? Auto or manual? 02-04?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OEM, if you use a Doctronic or KPro or other plug and play ECU, there are very little to no changes required. The injector plugs are likely the biggest change.
Doctronic and others also sell the E and C101 plug and pins if you build your own conversion harness.
I converted my Lotus ELise Rover engine harness this way into a conversion harness. The Honda OE loom just plugs in plus one single splice wire to plug into the OE harness for the alternator lamp.
I was leaning towards one of those tuck harness just because of how clean they look. But After looking at KBuilt’s picture oem might be the way. That’s cool you converted your oe harness to make it work. Sounds like a lot of work.
 

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no, with the Doctronic schematics, it took about 3h. I have now done two for the S1 Elise and one for a 2ZZ-GE Exige. The latter took longer as I had a US spec conversion loom to start, but a EUDM car which differ and the US conversion harness was poorly designed and incompletely documented. By the time I was done, I would have been faster making it from scratch. Doing the studying of the schematic and identifying all cables of the ECU took two days at a friend’s place no being a in a rush..

Ideal base for a conversion harness is the old engine loom as it has all the plugs plugging into the car’s harness.
You only need like 7 cables, so very few. Main work is to remove what is not needed anymore, which is 90% of the old engine loom.
ign 12V
bat 12V
starter
rpm
speed
fuel pump
alternator light


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no, with the Doctronic schematics, it took about 3h. I have now done two for the S1 Elise and one for a 2ZZ-GE Exige. The latter took longer as I had a US spec conversion loom to start, but a EUDM car which differ and the US conversion harness was poorly designed and incompletely documented. By the time I was done, I would have been faster making it from scratch. Doing the studying of the schematic and identifying all cables of the ECU took two days at a friend’s place no being a in a rush..

Ideal base for a conversion harness is the old engine loom as it has all the plugs plugging into the car’s harness.
You only need like 7 cables, so very few. Main work is to remove what is not needed anymore, which is 90% of the old engine loom.
ign 12V
bat 12V
starter
rpm
speed
fuel pump
alternator light


That’s a pretty nice write up for the wiring of each ecu. Definitely more than what I would get into alone 🤣🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Has to be 02-04. Mine is a base model 5 spd harness.I got the tape from Home Depot lol. I forget what pages in my thread it’s covered in.
I go to your build page and check it out to get idea on things. Definitely haven’t been through the whole thing
 
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