Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any recommendations for an EG as far as track alignment? Suspension components that I have are: Front camber kit, rear arms, coilovers, and I will be running Hoosiers for track tires. Any help will be greatly appreciated. :dance:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
When you say track, you mean drag race track, right?
Don't like drag but if you run about -2 deg camber you will be doing a lot better on a real track....you know the one where you can use a FWD car with push instead of wheel hop....anyway I have tein type flex with the pillow mounts and the rear arms. The front is set to -2 and the rear is set to -1....that's a road allinment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If I run -2.5 in the front, what would be best for the rear? Also, any ideas on caster? (Sorry for the questions but I am new to the Honda world) :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
If I run -2.5 in the front, what would be best for the rear? Also, any ideas on caster? (Sorry for the questions but I am new to the Honda world) :eek:[/QUO
This works well on RSX's and S2ks Front Camber: -1.8 to -2.0Rear Camber: -2.8 to -3.0 Toe: 1/8 out in the front. I have never driven your car and you may have to change it a little but this should give you a good idea of where to start. Here's a really good site that I found with some information that will help you....Yeah it's for a neon but same applies since it's FWD. great read. http://www.turbomopar.com/handling.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,736 Posts
dont use the s2k alignment numbers. the car is rwd which is totally different from fwd. im in auto-x and so is my friends (s2k, eg, m3, evo5, wrs) and a couple more. and each run different camber alignments. me and the eg have yet to find a good one for our driving style so i cant really help. If you join the forums for what you are wanting to race in, ask someone there with the same setup as you. That will be better. u have to go out and drive and see how it is first before you throw all this money off of what someone says and expect to do well. full coilovers are great for road racing, but some spring/shock combos have proven themselves also. since u have an eg, i would look into getting the itr rear sway bar. it helps alot. search around about the sway bar and u'll learn some good info. sorry for no help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,257 Posts
I just did a weekend @ VIR. I was running the following on an ek :

Front
-----
Camber -1.7
Toe -1/16th front (toe out)

Rear
----
Camber -1.0
Toe 0

The car handled beautifully. Very neutral. Good turn-in and alignment is still street friendly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Yeah sorry about the sk2 I was talking about the weight and not thinking about drive train. yep sorry...anyway -1 seems a little light in the rear I have more then what your useing on my rsx and that's a street alignment!?! I don't think that your cars are all that much different but maybe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Another thing about starting with a lot of rear camber is that your going to have a bunch of under steer. The stiffer and more traction the rear has the more that your car is going to want go strait....FWD on the RWD they get tail happy so they have to have a lot of rear camber...but for front wheel drive if you start with a lot then you will be able to tune your way down to what you feel is best for you. I still don't think that I would anything more pos then -2 deg in the front but you have a different car then I do. happy track man
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
I run
-2.5 front camber
1/16 total toe out front
-2.0 rear camber
0 toe rear

Feels great turn in is crisp and back is very stable under hard braking and fast corners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Have you had it corner balanced it yet?
No I didn't have much time to tune my suspention while I was in the states...I live in Italy right now. I installed Tein type flex, front and rear DC Sports strut towers and a rear Hotchkis 27mm adjustable sway, with SPC rear camber kit. I drove on it and let it settle for about five days then got a street alignment. Next time I'm home I am going to be starting my turbo build so I think that I am going to wait until I have everything built and dyno tuned before I try and adjust anything...after all a 200whp car isn't going to act the same as a 600whp car.:up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the input guys :D I will get the chance to get a feel for my car this weekend at Arroyo Seco. :up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,736 Posts
think twice about boosting when ur doing road race. i really regret going turbo. i want to go back to NA for auto-x and road racing just a thought. im only making 436whp.. not 600whp like ur goin for. :up: look into getting a ball bearing turbo so it spools faster and u have a more linear usable powerband.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
think twice about boosting when ur doing road race. i really regret going turbo. i want to go back to NA for auto-x and road racing just a thought. im only making 436whp.. not 600whp like ur goin for. :up: look into getting a ball bearing turbo so it spools faster and u have a more linear usable powerband.
Yeah I guess that I'm just being a little greedy with the turbo but I thin that a good boost by gear with the stage three that I am going to run will work fine and long as I can maintain boost around corners....not that hard to do but hard to learn...almost like brake boosting. I'm getting a full race stage three and that comes with a GT35R so ballbearings are going to be there. Should be stupid fast on race gas but I will only be making like high fours low fives on pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,736 Posts
ur goin to need lsd if u want to hold boost around the corners. i dont have lsd but will be getting it next season. when i keep it in boost around the corners my turning line just gets wider and wider. and u end up getting pulled further away from the original line that u wanted to run in, making u slower in connecting to the next turn or slalom or wuteva.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
I have a few customers that race their cars in SCCA events here locally in KC.

They are pretty religious about their setups.

most of em run -2.5 camber in the front 0 degrees of toe

caster is usually equaled out so there is not a split

as far as the rear goes they usually run -1.0 to -1.5 camber and one guy likes a little toe in and the other runs 0 degrees of toe in the rear.

as far as the dragstrip, ive always aligned friends car and my own car back into the factory spec.

hell, one friend picked up a 10th from it, his front end was toe-d out beyond belief and he was probably driving 1500 feet instead of 1320 in the quarter.

in the end though, its going to be whats comfortable for you though
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top