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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I have never used twin disc before, are those good to drive?
Those are racing clutches, main duty is to transfer torque, interrupt torque. There is no real requirement for smoothness and controllability of them written in their spec sheet. I suggested it as you claimed to...
...I will punish the shit out of it when its done...
You should maybe decide what you need and what you want. Both should be the same finally. If you go with the single aftermarket stuff from e.g. Excedy or Competition Clutch then you have to take into account they are less controllable and they suffer clutch juddering much more then an OEM will do it. I know examples with those which were done after few races, some stand their application job very long, concluding their quality is of an wide range. I would recommend you first to decide what you need and desire and then to check out the market. My impression is still TODA is the right for you. Race proven stuff and quality is there where you expect it, near to OEM quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Im thinking to use the FX300 again. It was very nice to drive, didnt slip on strip or anywere, it did work great. The problems started after 10.000km.

And I think that if I do the washer fix, the problem that I had, goes away.

The toda is bit too expensive for me. The price + shipping and taxes in finland would be alot.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Im thinking to use the FX300 again. It was very nice to drive, didnt slip on strip or anywere, it did work great. The problems started after 10.000km...And I think that if I do the washer fix, the problem that I had, goes away.
I don't think so. It is known to fail for different reasons. Fixing one thing might be not enough when in general the quality is the issue. We have a saying here in Germany, "Buy cheap, buy twice!". Twice might be not enough, only if one issue is on all batches. But here you will find everything, from controllability to extrem wear. Just my two cents.

The toda is bit too expensive for me. The price + shipping and taxes in finland would be alot.
You are going to buy the 2nd clutch, you invested likely 2 hours for the dismantle, having the car staying at home in it's case for days and have to "repair" eventually the next Clutchmaster FX300 to be on spot and you have to assemble the engine-transmission a 2nd time. Ok, if that is still more economical, fine :). In my case, I pulled the tranny two times as the gearbox case broke after the repair of the gear wheels did overheat. Now I bought a low mileage SPWM tranny for setting up this right from basis. No gearbox case welding, it will find directly it's way to the end of the metal cycle. Pulling the tranny is annoying when the chassis is a Lotus Elise. Around 3 h dismantle, fixing something, 2 h assembly, so at least 1 day for nothing. In one day I can tune about 80 % of an race engine and earn fine money or having a fine day with my family. Spending time on things, which might, eventually work, but are known to fail is just like preventing one from having a better time. Also just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 · (Edited)
Yeah I know if you want good and cheap you need to boy two.

I tought Clutch masters clutch are good brand?
New fx300 would be 500€
Todas that I found cost 1000€ + shipping and taxes, so it would be around 1500€.

I have driven the car 17000km in 12 years. I have no rush, If it brokes, I can fix it this year, or next.

I just want a cluch that is good to drive, and would handle the torque that the car makes.

If I had the extra money for this hobby, I would not make all the swap parts by my self 😁
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I tought Clutch masters clutch are good brand?
I have an Excedy Stage 1 on my 310 hp Elise (2-Liter NA engine). It has a lower controllability compared to an OEM RSP clutch, the sweet spot has a smaller pedal moving distance, which is ok when running through the gears but it anyone's me when parking into a parking lot backwards. The combination of a 74 mm TB and very light flywheel and an insensitive clutch needs a bit more revvs and more slip on the clutch to move that tiny, flat and very good overview-able chassis. Sounds like the guy driving it has an race engine setup inside or can't drive that car properly into a parking lot :D. The Excedy quality is, from my experience based on direct feedback on Honda events, the better of those two. I would have choosen the OEM, and it might have worked out torque-wise, but it was on the edge, as torque exceeds 200 ftlb's.

If I had the extra money for this hobby, I would not make all the swap parts by my self
Of course. My hobby is my side job too. So I have rarely time for my own stuff. I drove my Lotus since I have it since 2012 less then 6000 km. One day tuning means good money, one day working on future projects means a good future, one day working on the Lotus just for repair means loosing time and taught me choosing next time for the right parts only or doing more of the former.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I have never used twin disc before, are those good to drive? The car will be more like DD car, so I want the clutch to be easy to drive. Sintered clutch is big NO.
You would not want a twin disk for your car it sounds like , they are definitely not easy. But it would transfer the power of your engine nicely and last quite awhile on a 350hp car
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Found this. Ok price for me. They say it holds 330hp. Did read that this brand is used in honda cup.
Nice find. I am looking forward to read your report about it: installation, grip, sweet spot and later on durability :D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Nice find. I am looking forward to read your report about it: installation, grip, sweet spot and later on durability :D.
Didnt buy it yet, but thinking about it. Also found very little info about this, one user said that it feels great, had one in B engine, and was going to order same to K. A4H sells this from netherlands so theres no taxes.
Aand what ever clutch I deside to buy, gonna take loong time to get any report 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Anyone know can I use the Torsen that I have in the RSX transmission, in the CRV transmission? Can I make it work with the crv front diff?
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Nice find. I am looking forward to read your report about it: installation, grip, sweet spot and later on durability :D.
Got answer from A4H and they said this clutch is not enough for me, and recomended Competition cluch stage 4. Said that it has a smooth engagement. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Got answer from A4H and they said this clutch is not enough for me, and recomended Competition cluch stage 4. Said that it has a smooth engagement. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Thanks for your reply. Understood, they might see an higher torque peak at engine at engine speed changes, because of the 4WD might need a higher torque demand to overcome the inertia of it when the clutch slides in into final position after gear change.

Thanks for the underneath pictures of the AWD and header. How does the transmission now feed the FWD? I see the distributer gearbox and the RWD shaft only. Does it connect also to that distributer gearbox?

Those are very long primaries. How long length-wise are you planing the secondaries?
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 · (Edited)
I ordered Competition clutch stage 3. Its similar to cc fx300, and that was very nice to drive.

Distributerbox connects straigth to the gearbox. You can see the gearbox in that pic. Front axles connects behind the distributerbox, same as orginally FWD. Or what did you mean?

Im now wondering that can I use the torsen LSD what was in my EP3 transmission, or do I need to make some kind of adabter to make it work with the distributerbox.

That header is the hybrid racing budget header. I havent measured it, but secondary is about 40cm long.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Ok, CC stage 3, we will see how it works out for you :D.

Distributerbox connects straigth to the gearbox. You can see the gearbox in that pic. Front axles connects behind the distributerbox, same as orginally FWD. Or what did you mean?
Yes, thanks, now I am back in the picture again.

Im now wondering that can I use the torsen LSD what was in my EP3 transmission, or do I need to make some kind of adabter to make it work with the distributerbox.
DC definitely would know the answer, they sell and build this stuff for years now.

That header is the hybrid racing budget header. I havent measured it, but secondary is about 40cm long.
Ok, will emphasise more down low. Fits maybe good to the application with the huge inertia increase because of the AWD mass and friction.
 
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