[Luici]

DD and couple times on track, and 1/4mile. We have a racetrack in near by, (25km) from here. There is trackdays were you can drive any kind car in the track. Like own car track day.

 

[Luici]

Car is running again and ready for test drive. Im still waiting the rear diff parts from US. Over 2 weeks now and no update on tracking. The seller is trying to find out why its taking so long.

 

[LotusElise]

Car is running again and ready for test drive.

Very nice, I am looking forward to see/hear it running on street. Good luck for it!

 

[Luici]

Anyone else here who had problems with swap driveshafts. I have the 2.9, bought from hybrid racing somewere in 2009. 17.000km driven. The rubbers lasted one year. The socket that holds the inner bearings both broke, there is pics of this on page 5.
Also the axle welding broke on the driver side. Now I noticed that passenger side inner bearing is very loose on the axle that goes in transmission. I found that some other guys had this same problem, with new driveshafts. It was old post and no one ever posted any info afterwards. Are they just piece of s*it product or what is the cause that makes this happen 🤔

 

[Lotus]

Now I fixed my DSS level 2.9 axles, they are 3 years old/ 12700km drived. And condition was this.

And the axle welding was broken too. Axle is very loose, so it´s no wonder that the weld was cracked.

So, I welded that axle and made new washers for the rollers.

These are cheap low load tripoid joints. They are unsuitable for higher drive shaft angles or higher torque. These are fitted to low power cars. Commercial vans/light trucks and sports cars, this included Honda Type R models, are fitted with enhanced load tripoid joints. They are more expensive.

What is the difference?
The low load versions run open needle bearings and do not tilt the bearings on the tripoid. Instead, their outer rim is rounded and slides across the “race” in the bell housing of the joint. Their friction losses are higher and increase dramatically at higher drift shaft angles.

High performance tripoids use encapsulated bearings that tilt on the star of the tripoid and their outer rim is flat running flat across the race of the bell housing. They have lower losses and losses do not increase as much a drive shaft angles get larger.

See an old posting of mine explaining it incl. pictures of the two styles of tripoid joints.

https://www.k20a.org/threads/you-want-to-win-up-to-50-the-86-5x86-rebuild-question.199018/post-3323861

The joints you use cost $15. They are crap.
Scuffers tried them a long time ago in his K20 racing Elise. He said they last 15 minutes on track. The Honda OE joints last entire seasons.

Shaft welding is an art. The best I have seen was to drill the shafts, insert a steel rod, put them together and electron beam weld them in vacuum.
The best solution is to have shafts made from one piece of steel. -> more expensive.

In the Lotus Elise conversion world, many do trackdays, runs superchargers and they have large drive shaft angles, it was found that this works:
Use Honda OE joints
use Honda OE or high quality boots, e.g. from SKF
For the inners use OKS422 grease
for the outers use Neo HPCC #1 grease ($$$)

if a single circlip groove is cut the wrong way, the shafts shear off. and we talk 1500 pound cars here with only 250 to 300HP.

 

[Luici]

I also have -02 CR-V drive shafts, wonder if those bearings/tripods fit to dss axles. I need to look in to that.

 

[Luici]

Got my FasTrack spool kit for the rear diff. Thanks Matt. My clutch pack was a little worn , so put the oe shim also with the new that came with the set. Now there is loose, but veeeery little. Hope it works.

 

[Luici]

First test. Everything seems to be ok. Maybe tomorrow I have the time to test drive it.

EG K23 first AWD test

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