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38046 Views 264 Replies 38 Participants Last post by  Luici
Here is my EG project.


-ERL Performance 2.3 short block
-Darton 89mm sleeves
-ERL Superdeck I
-Brian Crower billet 92mm crank
-Brian Crower rods
-JE custom pistons 12.5
-S2K oli pump
-ACL bearings
-Steward Racing ported head
-Supertech valves
-Supertech springs and retainers.
-IPS K10 cams (coming)
-RBC Intake
-RC 550cc injectors
-Clutchmaster FX300
-ACT XACT flywheel
-3" custom exhaust

Video 100-200km/h with STOCK HEAD

-Hybrid Racing cluch line
-Hybrid Racing K-series conversion harness
-Hybrid Racing radiator hode insert
-Hybrid Racing shifter cables
-Hybrid Racing header
-Hybrid Racing throtle cable
-Hybrid Racing fuel line
-Hybrid Racing 2.9 axels
-Hybrid Racing mounts
-Hybrid Racing chain tensioner

-Carbonfibre hood
-Carbonfibre trunk
-Carbonfibre mirrors
-Carbonfibre spoiler

-Rays Engineering Volk Racing TE 37 15" Toyo tires
-Rays nuts


-Skunk2 Pro S
-Integra R sway bars
-OmniPower front camber kit
-Skunk2 back camber kit
-ASR Reinforcement Kit
-Integra R brake booster
-Wilwood Dynalite brake bads and Brembo 282mm rotors
-Back brakes are from civic VTi with 265mm rotors


-Sparco Proo 2000 seats
-OEM steerin wheel :)
-6 point harness (coming)
-Roll bars


Self made shifter and S2K oil pump adabter. Buddy club short shifter did broke after 1000km, piece of s*it.

Couple pics of the ported head.

Pics of wheels, they needed new paint and stickers.

The engine wire harnness got new cover.

chassis/suspension. Traction bar is DIY

I made a venting tank for the engine, this way the intake stays cleaner, and motor gets only fresh air.

Hasport parts polished and header wrapped in thermotec.

This is the current situation. Now I´m just waitin for the IPS K10 and HR tensioner to arrive so I can put the engine back together.

Thanks to Hybrid Racing for making the story of my car!
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Im wondering what clutch should I use. I had cm fx300, but it was done after 17tkm. The gearbox side was worn completely, flywheel side was ok. Dont know why.
Wow, this is a 11 year long thread. Amazing. I am really happy to see you still innovating your car (y). Do you have a picture of the clutch pads? I would be interesting to see it to get an idea what could have happend. Just out of curiosity, do you know the clutch pressure and maximum torque the engine transfers over the clutch into the main shaft?
Yes its working, only thing is that when you drive on streets you can adjust the power
Understood. Which ECU you are using for engine control? Does it supply also free to choose parameter mapping and output for the control of the torque support of the EPS?

I dont know the clutch pressure, car made 270nm on dyno. Ill post pics of the clutch in a moment.
Thanks, from the wear pictures I would claim the material of the wear "slave" has insufficient temperature capability. You can see the streaks on the metal ring of the pressure side? This indicates the wear slave material don't like temperature. Normal wear produces dust particles, which is dry. But here we see the compound material melts and creates those streaks. I would not go again with the same clutch. Why don't you use just the series clutch? It would be sufficient up to 270 Nm regarding normal use, excessive tire smoking not included ;). I use the stock clutch on my 280 Nm K20, just an Elise with 750 kg, but no slipping on the clutch side. I am not sure on the tire side 🤣.
If I rememmber right I have Kpro PRB. But I dont know how to tune that so..
There are 8 free analog inputs available within KPro V4 and at least two outputs. I have to check if this is a switch type which can be duty cycled or just digitalized. Tuning is no issue. I can support you with this.

so I dont know if oem is enough?
Ok, your application might exceed the OEM capacity. TODA racing overs a nice single clutch kit, balanced and has an higher capacity to handle torque right. The point is, clutch friction material and metal friction partner (flywheel) material has to match in friction, wear and temperature capacity. If one of these parameters don't match, you see issues like you have seen at your clutch. TODA uses this in it's racing cars and have proven it's function under tough requirements. Of course there are other companies offering aftermarket stuff. But quality-wise I have no experience with them. Some friends of me made their experience with stuff from Excedy and Competition Clutch, maybe single sided events.
I have never used twin disc before, are those good to drive?
Those are racing clutches, main duty is to transfer torque, interrupt torque. There is no real requirement for smoothness and controllability of them written in their spec sheet. I suggested it as you claimed to...
...I will punish the shit out of it when its done...
You should maybe decide what you need and what you want. Both should be the same finally. If you go with the single aftermarket stuff from e.g. Excedy or Competition Clutch then you have to take into account they are less controllable and they suffer clutch juddering much more then an OEM will do it. I know examples with those which were done after few races, some stand their application job very long, concluding their quality is of an wide range. I would recommend you first to decide what you need and desire and then to check out the market. My impression is still TODA is the right for you. Race proven stuff and quality is there where you expect it, near to OEM quality.
Im thinking to use the FX300 again. It was very nice to drive, didnt slip on strip or anywere, it did work great. The problems started after 10.000km...And I think that if I do the washer fix, the problem that I had, goes away.
I don't think so. It is known to fail for different reasons. Fixing one thing might be not enough when in general the quality is the issue. We have a saying here in Germany, "Buy cheap, buy twice!". Twice might be not enough, only if one issue is on all batches. But here you will find everything, from controllability to extrem wear. Just my two cents.

The toda is bit too expensive for me. The price + shipping and taxes in finland would be alot.
You are going to buy the 2nd clutch, you invested likely 2 hours for the dismantle, having the car staying at home in it's case for days and have to "repair" eventually the next Clutchmaster FX300 to be on spot and you have to assemble the engine-transmission a 2nd time. Ok, if that is still more economical, fine :). In my case, I pulled the tranny two times as the gearbox case broke after the repair of the gear wheels did overheat. Now I bought a low mileage SPWM tranny for setting up this right from basis. No gearbox case welding, it will find directly it's way to the end of the metal cycle. Pulling the tranny is annoying when the chassis is a Lotus Elise. Around 3 h dismantle, fixing something, 2 h assembly, so at least 1 day for nothing. In one day I can tune about 80 % of an race engine and earn fine money or having a fine day with my family. Spending time on things, which might, eventually work, but are known to fail is just like preventing one from having a better time. Also just my two cents.
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I tought Clutch masters clutch are good brand?
I have an Excedy Stage 1 on my 310 hp Elise (2-Liter NA engine). It has a lower controllability compared to an OEM RSP clutch, the sweet spot has a smaller pedal moving distance, which is ok when running through the gears but it anyone's me when parking into a parking lot backwards. The combination of a 74 mm TB and very light flywheel and an insensitive clutch needs a bit more revvs and more slip on the clutch to move that tiny, flat and very good overview-able chassis. Sounds like the guy driving it has an race engine setup inside or can't drive that car properly into a parking lot :D. The Excedy quality is, from my experience based on direct feedback on Honda events, the better of those two. I would have choosen the OEM, and it might have worked out torque-wise, but it was on the edge, as torque exceeds 200 ftlb's.

If I had the extra money for this hobby, I would not make all the swap parts by my self
Of course. My hobby is my side job too. So I have rarely time for my own stuff. I drove my Lotus since I have it since 2012 less then 6000 km. One day tuning means good money, one day working on future projects means a good future, one day working on the Lotus just for repair means loosing time and taught me choosing next time for the right parts only or doing more of the former.
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Found this. Ok price for me. They say it holds 330hp. Did read that this brand is used in honda cup.
Nice find. I am looking forward to read your report about it: installation, grip, sweet spot and later on durability :D.
Got answer from A4H and they said this clutch is not enough for me, and recomended Competition cluch stage 4. Said that it has a smooth engagement. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Thanks for your reply. Understood, they might see an higher torque peak at engine at engine speed changes, because of the 4WD might need a higher torque demand to overcome the inertia of it when the clutch slides in into final position after gear change.

Thanks for the underneath pictures of the AWD and header. How does the transmission now feed the FWD? I see the distributer gearbox and the RWD shaft only. Does it connect also to that distributer gearbox?

Those are very long primaries. How long length-wise are you planing the secondaries?
Ok, CC stage 3, we will see how it works out for you :D.

Distributerbox connects straigth to the gearbox. You can see the gearbox in that pic. Front axles connects behind the distributerbox, same as orginally FWD. Or what did you mean?
Yes, thanks, now I am back in the picture again.

Im now wondering that can I use the torsen LSD what was in my EP3 transmission, or do I need to make some kind of adabter to make it work with the distributerbox.
DC definitely would know the answer, they sell and build this stuff for years now.

That header is the hybrid racing budget header. I havent measured it, but secondary is about 40cm long.
Ok, will emphasise more down low. Fits maybe good to the application with the huge inertia increase because of the AWD mass and friction.
Some dude here tested aluminium with RE85. He had small tank, had RE85 sitting in it for a year, nothing happened to the tank inner surface. After 3 years the liquid started to look dirty.
Thanks for sharing this experience. What does the R in RE85 stand for?

Basically it is like @drtye mentioned it, there are two types of corrosion: water driven and alcohol driven corrosion. But there is an aluminum oxide layer hindering or retard massively those processes. You can measure the pH-value of your fuel tank, between 4 (acid) and 8.5 (slightly base sided) the corrosion mechanism are very slow working. There are measures available to reduce it, kind of fuel management or just leave it and check the fuel and the filter from time to time. @Lotus does quite often use E85, not sure if he has an Alu tank. Maybe he shares his experience here too.
To cut the chase short. e85 is no problem as long as the fuel is regularly used up.
For winter storage, use low to no ethanol fuels. For motorcycles or lawn mowers, drain the carbs before storage. Completely fill up metal gas tanks before winter storage.
Thanks for the reply and experience on your side on that 🆙.
I was wondering should I send the tank for anodizing too.
The controlled oxidation during a maybe Type 2 anodization process (Sulphuric based) definitely would be an advantage regarding el. insulation, corrosion resistance and so on.
1 - 20 of 265 Posts