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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Shout out to @Lotus for helping guide me!
EDIT: Also I wanted to add, we are still using this harness with little problems. I ended up cutting and soldering in a factory connector to the crank sensor CKP and throttle pos sensor TPS. The connectors that come with this harness are junk and allow a break in contact intermittently because they fit loose causing insane stuttering/misfiring for the CKP and a bunch of throttle problems for the TPS. For others, this could affect other sensors, so it's up to you to figure if each connector is snug and monitor all data streams to make sure everything is functioning correctly, all the time. Keep this in mind if you do buy this harness, some do not have junkyards nearby.
If you have one of those eBay / china tucked harnesses and are not getting spark and or your radiator fan turns on after cranking then you need to swap pins 7 and 20 at the C101 connector. I also recommend buying a quality solid ground lug for 16ga wire with a 5/16 hole and replacing the ring terminal on the harness.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the feedback on that guys. The harness looks quality-wise a bit questionable. What is the wire size and insulation specification of these? Any idea?
It's not great but it's not bad. Only thing that feels cheap is the wire insulation and the braided loom. Looks like 16 or 18ga wire for every pin. It's pure stranded copper.
I had the intention of buying a better harness if need be but this one seems sufficient enough for now. Time will tell if it holds up against many heat cycles and road grime.

  • Features: All plugs have gasoline and diesel resistant housings, and all plugs are designed to work in harsh weather and extreme temperatures (-67°F to 320°F).

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extreme temperatures (-67°F to 320°F).
At the engine OEM, I worked for till 2018, 125 °C insulation resistant material was used. It was not ROHS conform, but could be CE legal because of the argumentation (mass content, use case, safety). You don't find any better material then this. Thence 257 °F is quite a very high temperature value, even for Chinese production, where CE conformation does maybe not count. I have my doubt on the 320 °F, maybe they calculate differently from °C into °F ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
At the engine OEM, I worked for till 2018, 125 °C insulation resistant material was used. It was not ROHS conform, but could be CE legal because of the argumentation (mass content, use case, safety). You don't find any better material then this. Thence 257 °F is quite a very high temperature value, even for Chinese production, where CE conformation does maybe not count. I have my doubt on the 320 °F, maybe they calculate differently from °C into °F ;).
Oh yeah. I highly doubt their material holds up to the chemicals and temperatures that they claim. Haha
 

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Shout out to @Lotus for helping guide me! If you have one of those eBay / china tucked harnesses and are not getting spark and or your radiator fan turns on after cranking then you need to swap pins 7 and 20 at the C101 connector. I also recommend buying a quality solid ground lug for 16ga wire with a 5/16 hole and replacing the ring terminal on the harness. View attachment 110674
Long time lurker, first time poster, made an account just to say thank you you absolute legend. I was chasing my tail around for so long with this issue, swapped the pins around and car started first go. Also regarding this loom I wasn’t getting a starter motor signal turns out the spade connector was loose behind the insulation, maybe this information can help someone in the future. Overall you get what you pay for with these looms, not bad but not great.
 

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it was a pleasure to help ya out
Long time lurker, first time poster, made an account just to say thank you you absolute legend. I was chasing my tail around for so long with this issue, swapped the pins around and car started first go. Also regarding this loom I wasn’t getting a starter motor signal turns out the spade connector was loose behind the insulation, maybe this information can help someone in the future. Overall you get what you pay for with these looms, not bad but not great.
Can I is it the plug socket what colors I need to know ECT is and have no spark
 

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Thanks for the feedback on that guys. The harness looks quality-wise a bit questionable. What is the wire size and insulation specification of these? Any idea?
Can you help me out as well I swapped the pins over and the car started right up. Then stalled out. Now it won’t start again? Any tips? Is it the ground wire on that harness? No codes either
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also I wanted to add, we are still using this harness with little problems. I ended up cutting and soldering in a factory connector to the crank sensor CKP and throttle pos sensor TPS. The connectors that come with this harness are junk and allow a break in contact because they fit loose causing insane stuttering/misfiring for the CKP and a bunch of throttle problems for the TPS. Keep this in mind if you do buy this harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes I’m getting spark and fuel. Just checked timing and it is good. Motors freshly rebuilt. Get code for p1361 should I get a new cam sensor or check wiring first? My dvom is at work so I would have to wait till tomrorow.
check and make sure that the signal wire for the cam sensor is actually pinned to the right wire at the ecu. You might have them switched, or the factory has the labels flipped.
 

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Yes I’m getting spark and fuel. Just checked timing and it is good. Motors freshly rebuilt. Get code for p1361 should I get a new cam sensor or check wiring first? My dvom is at work so I would have to wait till tomrorow.
also so
Bad news I oull
Valve cover to check timing and the oil is milky I guess from sitting for over a year. But I did change it like three months ago but never ran it. Could that cause a start up then die? Will change tomorrow the oil and clean head.
 

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also so
Bad news I oull
Valve cover to check timing and the oil is milky I guess from sitting for over a year. But I did change it like three months ago but never ran it. Could that cause a start up then die? Will change tomorrow the oil and clean head.
Kinda think it could be the signal wire from the cam rsx sensor, I was looking at the color of the harness to the pin on the ecu and they were different color
Milky oil won't stop the vehicle starting.
going to pin test cam sensors and crank sensors when the weather allows. Will keep updated. As I’m using same harness as the guy on this thread.
 

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Kinda think it could be the signal wire from the cam rsx sensor, I was looking at the color of the harness to the pin on the ecu and they were different color

going to pin test cam sensors and crank sensors when the weather allows. Will keep updated. As I’m using same harness as the guy on this thread.
So I ended up pin testing and cam sensors are good and so are crank so mayb the sensor it self ?
 
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