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My ’95 Hatch used to be a K-Series turbo car, but last year, I swapped in an internally stock K24A2 motor. I bought the TSX motor from Nikos and used the car as my daily driver. The motor was perfect and this winter, I decided to begin making engine modifications with a future goal of making a very quick all-motor car. The motor work I did centers on the Drag Cartel Stage 4 cams.

What you see here is just a solid foundation, much work remains to be done with respect to the intake, intake manifold, and throttle body set-up. To establish this foundation, I decided to build this motor with readily available off-the-shelf parts, without resorting to custom parts and machining. My goal was to share some detailed build specifications and tuning results with you, here. I wanted to demonstrate what gains can be achieved when you go from an internally stock motor to an internally built motor, without changing the bolt-ons or the car. I hope that some of you can benefit from my experiences as you are building your own hot rods.

For now, I am very satisfied with the 40 whp and 18 torque increase, above and beyond the stock motor’s output!

Tuning Specifications:

- the same bolt-ons were installed on both the stock motor and the race motor
- the motor was carefully assembled to exact specifications
- the motor was broken in on the dyno, using Valvoline 10W40 oil and Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer
- Autolite OEM equivalent spark plugs were used during motor break-in
- an oil change to Valvoline 5W30 oil was performed prior to tuning
- NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs were installed prior to tuning
- extensive low cam angle tuning resulted in 30 degrees all the way up to 5,850 rpm
- extensive high cam angle tuning resulted in 30 degrees from 5,850 rpm until redline
- in reviewing threads here about these cams, advancing more with shelf pistons was not recommended
- the ideal iVTEC cross-over for this motor was found to be at 5,850 rpm
- air fuel ratios from 12.5:1 up to 13.8:1 were tested and the ideal level was found to be 13.2 to 13.4:1
- ignition timing advance was found to be best around the 31-33 degrees mark
- all testing was done with 93 octane premium unleaded fuel
- engine temperature was maintained consistent at 177-183 degrees for all WOT pulls
- intake air temperature was maintained consistent at 98-105 degrees for all WOT pulls

Observations:

- even with these aggressive cams the engine idles very nicely, like stock
- it drives very smooth, at all partial throttle load points
- the camshafts and SuperTech valves/springs set are not quiet, but they work very well together
- while not publicly advertised, I was provided with all cam specs
- I bought the camshafts from a member here (eg6k) and Checo’s customer support was excellent!
- the camshafts are not cheap at $990 retail, but worth every penny, in my opinion

Next steps:

1. - track test the current set-up
2. - tune the exact same set-up with race fuel or e85 and track test again
3. - save money for an aggressive intake manifold and large throttle body, and re-tune

Chassis Dyno used:

Brand - Dyno Dynamics
Model - 450
Type – magnetic eddy current retarder

Dyno Testing Results:

- 240 whp and 174 tq with Drag Cartel Stage 4 camshafts and higher compression pistons installed
- 199 whp and 156 tq with OEM K24A2 camshafts and OEM pistons installed

Dyno Charts:

with Drag Cartel camshafts and higher compression pistons installed



with OEM camshafts and oem pistons (10.5:1 cr) installed



comparison of the two



Engine Specs:

- K24A2 short block
- OEM sleeves (87mm bore)
- 12.5:1 Wiseco pistons & rings
- Manley I-Beam rods
- ACL bearings (STD)
- K20A2 oil pump (& pan)
- K24a2 crankshaft
- Fluidamper K20 crankshaft pulley

- K24A2 head (unported)
- Drag Cartel camshafts (Stage 4 – all motor)
- OEM K20A2 camshaft gears
- SuperTech flat valves, dual valve springs, retainers, seats, cotters
- valve clearance set to 0.009 intake, 0.012 exhaust
- new OEM head gasket, valve seals, cam chain, upper cam chain guide
- ARP head bolts
- Hasport intake manifold adapter plate
- Hondata intake manifold heat shield gasket

Bolt-ons:

- Six Sigma Racing stainless headers
- KTeller stainless 3” exhaust with a Magnaflow resonator and muffler
- Euro Accord intake manifold
- Euro Accord 62mm throttle body
- short ram intake with a mesh high-flow filter
- Fuel system (Walbro in-tank pump, Precision 650cc injectors, GE fuel rail, Aeromotive fpr)

Vehicle:

1995 Honda Civic Si
tagged, insured, and barely street legal
weight: 2,398 lbs. (without driver)



Special Recognition:

Checo (eg6k) – thank you for answering my many questions, your countless informative posts on k20a.org, your excellent customer service, and just being an honorable seller of top quality parts!
 

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I really think that there's sutton wrong with this... I have personally seen stock k24a2 motors with a rbc, rcrew headers, 3in exh, and kpro get like 220. But these cams are really mention for high flowing motors. That stock port, intake Mani and that TB are holding u back a lot. Not too bad even though. I think it's a great increase in power. Def still got
plenty of room to grow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys!

You are right my dyno is not one to use for bragging about high whp numbers. I always get these reactions :). Over the years, I have done a lot of testing on other dynos. My cars and my customer cars have been on other dynos with the exact same set-up and tune (even on the same day).

For example, results from DynoJets have come in consistently reading 12-15% higher. That puts my Hatch in the 222-228 whp range stock and 268-276 whp range built. I think that is pretty decent.

Either way, that was really not the point of my thread. The point was to share with you what kind of an increase you can expect to gain from building the internals of your motor, while maintaining everything else equal (bolt-ons and the car itself).
 

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still good numbers. all i was getting at was the torque really. on a stock k24a2 with a few bolt ons and kpro, ive seen someone here with 217hp 182tq. just thought your torque was a bit low IMO. but cams seem to rob torque anyways, and give plenty of power.
 

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:up: you definately do some detailed and very specific threads...good work...when you track the cars let us know the numbers
 

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40whp and 18 tq are great gains! cant wait to see what a manifold and t/b upgrade can do
 

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Thanks guys!

You are right my dyno is not one to use for bragging about high whp numbers. I always get these reactions :). Over the years, I have done a lot of testing on other dynos. My cars and my customer cars have been on other dynos with the exact same set-up and tune (even on the same day).

For example, results from DynoJets have come in consistently reading 12-15% higher. That puts my Hatch in the 222-228 whp range stock and 268-276 whp range built. I think that is pretty decent.

Either way, that was really not the point of my thread. The point was to share with you what kind of an increase you can expect to gain from building the internals of your motor, while maintaining everything else equal (bolt-ons and the car itself).
This. Read this paragraph my friends, its about the gain, not the final number. tq will also be lower due to the way the dyno reads.

Thanks for this info ronald, good luck with new setup. Out of curiosity, the euro r manifold is an RBC right? How will you be upgrading your intake?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Out of curiosity, the euro r manifold is an RBC right? How will you be upgrading your intake?
Yes, the Euro R manifold is the same as the RBC. I bought it with a PRB equivalent throttle body that bolts right on (doesn't require an adapter plate). Here are a couple of pictures of the manifold and throttle body installed:





I will be using the Hayward Performance Drag Race Intake Manifold. I will install it with an AccuFab 90mm throttle body, a 4" intake tube, and a 4" velocity stack. It will be a while before I receive it. But, as soon as it arrives, it goes on the engine and I am putting the car back on the dyno for a re-tune. :D

I will definitely share the results, here.
 
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