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Discussion Starter · #121 · (Edited)
more cutting

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A little extra chamfer off the right

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clearance on left

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on right side - wiring has to move

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REALLY close to torque mount

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base of runners have to be revised - can't use the slip joints here- not enough depth

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Maybe extend the runners and place the 4-2 runners in this area. Definitely going to take some work to get this fitted. I've ordered some 2" mandrel bends to work with on this. Any thoughts on impact of extending the main runner length leading to the 4-2 junctions? I don't see any other way here. The alternative would be to shorten the main runners & try to fit the 4-2 collectors in the engine bay area. I don't see that happening though.

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I may also need to shorten the 4-2 collectors. Any thoughts on impact of that?

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What doe dampfhammer mean? I think it is lost in translation.

I have a 'cheap' TIG - it is an Eastwood 200 model - in the US, it is around $800 for the main component, probably around $1000 or so once all the necessary items are added.
i have a Eastwood Tig 200. it does High Freq. for aluminum. i love the booger, it just is not made the same way as a Miller or Lincoln in many ways. However it will get the job done with a average duty cycle performance for $1000.

On a side note, the new Lincoln 140MP I bought is awesome. it does tig foot pedal, scratch start, hardwire MIG, fluxcore with gas, and stick. Another nice unit for $1,200 once it is all said and done that runs on 120V 25A. Look it up man.
 

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Are you getting the header coated? some type of heat tape on the back of the valve cover or a heat shield would be even easier to make at first glance and it would keep the heat from the header pre-maturely wearing the valve cover gasket. Also the heat soak would be smart to block as best as possible sir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Are you getting the header coated? some type of heat tape on the back of the valve cover or a heat shield would be even easier to make at first glance and it would keep the heat from the header pre-maturely wearing the valve cover gasket. Also the heat soak would be smart to block as best as possible sir.
I'm planning on ceramic coating. Nowhere local, and it's not cheap, however I do need to do all I can to mitigate heat transfer. Jet-Hot is one possible resource I'm looking at for this. Around $400 for two part header.
 

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do it like the professionals let it get wrapped and welded in thin dimpled stainless steel foil.
Cosworth V12 for Aston martin.

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Had time today to play with the headers

After several back & forth, I figured out the amounts to cut the rear runners (1,2) back to get the additions high enough for the forward runner extensions to fit below

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Once I got all 4 in place I clamped them together & cut all 4 back. That wasn't enough cut back for them to snake in place - marked them in this pic, to show where the next cut needed to be

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#3 needed to be raised - so I had to shorten the runner 1/2" to get the lift needed

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Clamped all four together to get an even cut through all 4 - the last time they also moved around

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Cut on the band saw this time also, instead of with the sawsall

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Cut ends all had to be expanded to allow the original slip-fit sections to be used over. Have to weld those into the extensions, then weld 3 & 4 to the headers, then weld 1 & 2. Once that's all secure, I can start to figure out the 4-2 and 2-1 collector placement

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watching a plan develop in 3D is fun. thank you for sharing.

SS round files are king. I use McMaster Carr. Those things last forever and aluminum hardly sticks to them. At my old job QC would bitch about files on SS projects, so I ordered all SS files for the welders and fitters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
respect to you building your own header
Thank you - although, I'm just modding an existing product. :)

I looked at that welder you mentioned, for the hobbyist amount of welding I do, the Eastwood is sufficient - I did add a water-cooled torch setup, which made a big difference in increasing work time & torch temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 · (Edited)
Got another 2 hours in today

got the slip joint situation figured out - Tacked the joints and 4 - 3 runner extensions

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Had to remove a section of the ridge weld to get the header to snake in place - I will seam weld that later

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goes in like this...

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Snug fit - but it tips back/ down under load, so hopefully it won't whack the upper brace too often

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checking 4-2 collectors in situ

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I'll have to figure out how to get the 2-1 collectors in place - I'm likely going to have to cut it before the bungs & add the V Band there. I need 14" at least to the left of the flange to fit the cat & "U" bend leading back into the muffler. I don't see being able to make the two pipes equal length, as the 4-2 collectors are currently side-by-side

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
watching a plan develop in 3D is fun. thank you for sharing.

SS round files are king. I use McMaster Carr. Those things last forever and aluminum hardly sticks to them. At my old job QC would bitch about files on SS projects, so I ordered all SS files for the welders and fitters.
This is my file drawer

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
All I had time for today was to weld the 3 & 4 runner extensions & the slip joint collars

For me, sleeve joints make for ugly welds. I couldn't do these with butt-welds however.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get the 1 & 2 extensions welded

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