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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I was checking out an above-flange-oval-style header system too for the Elise. There was no way to make it possible, even if the engine can't turn around the mounts by torque as torque bar is a fixed link, it would have radiated too much heat to the chassis and valve cover sealing. The idea to have 80 % of the length already done shortly before turning into the rear direction from vertical plane is smart, but not working in a Lotus Elise chassis pre '03. I am not sure how much clearance you have between flange pipe turn and chassis, but you need at least 2 x OD + 20 mm pipe clearance plus 30 mm chassis clearance. You may be able to lower it when you insulate it.

Very nice picture @Lotus :love:
I will have to either rework the header and/or move part of the rear upper crossmember to make it happen - I only have 4.5" clearance at the narrowest point (top of valve cover)



in other news, the duct for the oil pan did work - the oil temps did not even get to 220, driving 500 miles, mostly at around 80mph.

105187


The only issue I have is that driving at 3-3.25K rpm the coolant temp stays at around 205-210ºF, above or below that it stays below 190ºF. It doesn't rise above that, so I assume it's probably most efficient operating temp for cruising speed. I like that with the 4:00 FD cruising rpm is reasonable.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Way to less, except you want to install a 1.0 high engine speed NA engine.

Wow, 3200 [email protected] km/h is almost a fuel saver application. Do you have a 5spd or 6spd box in your aggregate?
Japanese Market AST5 6 speed TSX transmission, with MFactory 4.00:1 FD & LSD.

I averaged 28.6 MPG over 1000 miles, mostly driving 70-80 mph or hard pulls 3-4-5-6 to exhibit the wonderful high rpm sounds to other drivers :p
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Headers arrived while I was out of town - definitely going to need to modify the upper crossmember to fit this thi....
You are a challenger of your chassis (hood and bar clearances) ;). Looking forward for your solution for it.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I want to retain the boot / trunk, so I will have to amend my layout to work that out. :p
The last picture shows a HiTech header solution. They know their stuff. They combine 1,2 and 3,4 via mergers.

Keeping the trunk is most challenging when squeezing out the optimal design. But welding is no issue for you, so it will be just a task with planning upfront :D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
The last picture shows a HiTech header solution. They know their stuff. They combine 1,2 and 3,4 via mergers.

Keeping the trunk is most challenging when squeezing out the optimal design. But welding is no issue for you, so it will be just a task with planning upfront :D.
More like seat-of-the-pants planning - I need to see it in the flesh, unfortunately. That means cut out the crossmember, test install the header, then figure out how to make the structure around it :D

Question - is there a performance benefit to having that type of "U" intake tube , vs. just an elbow? I really don't have room for the gigantic filter.
 

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likely non. check your IATs and MAP over rpm.
If IAT is near ambient at WOT and MAP only drops 20-30 mbar from 3k to 7k, you’re golden.

Commonly an airbox such as the ITG Maximen airboxes help ingensting cold air from a defined position while reducing noise without significant pressure drops.
 

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I got the alloy version, then found a carbon version 2nd hand and gave it to a friend. They are both very light
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 · (Edited)
Been busy on house remodeling & back to my day job. Also fell down the stairs & put my back, neck & shoulder out a couple weeks ago. Finally coming out of that, so I chopped the tie section this afternoon - I wanted to see how much needed to go just to get it in place:

shoved into stock hole

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Wheel
[

Motor vehicle Hood Grille Vehicle Automotive lighting


cut out a section I hoped would be enough - needs more removed to allow it to pivot against the head

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


more has to go on the left, a little on the right

Car Automotive lighting Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle


cut more out of the right on the bay side, and I/O on the left

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive tire


Motor vehicle Musical instrument Automotive tire Rim Plumbing


right side pipe is very close the torque mount - I'll likely have to revise that

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Bumper


Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
You made it 🆙. How do you see the situation with the stiffing bars? Are you going to compensate it?
Once I'm done cutting away existing sheet metal to make sure the header can be serviced I will add tubular cross bracing to replace the cut material.I don't want to loose the top plate as that incorporates the trunk/boot seal. I may have to cut it away for now, then weld it back later, or access for welding a cross tube is going to be a problem.
 

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Once I'm done cutting away existing sheet metal to make sure the header can be serviced I will add tubular cross bracing to replace the cut material.I don't want to loose the top plate as that incorporates the trunk/boot seal. I may have to cut it away for now, then weld it back later, or access for welding a cross tube is going to be a problem.
I’m interested to see any differences on the dyno. The ram horn is a very cool looking header 👍 I like the compact pipe design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I’m interested to see any differences on the dyno. The ram horn is a very cool looking header 👍 I like the compact pipe design.
I'm certainly counting on an improvement in torque/HP - I will have to shorten the 4-2 runner section, no way to use the full length as supplied, it runs directly into my lower crossmember as it sits. Still, significant length increase over my home made header
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Once I'm done cutting away existing sheet metal to make sure the header can be serviced I will add tubular cross bracing to replace the cut material.I don't want to loose the top plate as that incorporates the trunk/boot seal. I may have to cut it away for now, then weld it back later, or access for welding a cross tube is going to be a problem.
Sounds good. I am curious how you will solve it.

Still, significant length increase over my home made header
That will help anyway to smooth the curve as less exhaust communication will happen and therefore it is likely to see more potential in advancing the ign. timing in some critical areas like around switch point. I am looking forward to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Sounds good. I am curious how you will solve it.

That will help anyway to smooth the curve as less exhaust communication will happen and therefore it is likely to see more potential in advancing the ign. timing in some critical areas like around switch point. I am looking forward to see it.
Thank you for all your invaluable input. I will post pics of the exhaust as I modify it, I'm going to try & reshape the 4-2 union to minimize loss of overall runner length, so we'll see how it works out.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Thank you for all your invaluable input. I will post pics of the exhaust as I modify it, I'm going to try & reshape the 4-2 union to minimize loss of overall runner length, so we'll see how it works out.
No problem. Very good. I am looking forward to see them.
 
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