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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Backstory, so I stumbled on a junkyard pulled RSX type s K20 w/trans back in late 2017 for a steal of $300, so with extra spending money I had ordered performance parts to go with it.

I had an engine with nothing to swap it into. - I had gotten rid of all other past projects at this point and only had a CBR250R swapped Honda Grom as a toy.
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So I set out to find a car.

I'd first bought a 1st gen insight with the intention to have feather light drag car, but after I'd already bought it with a little remorse to wanting a FWD again, I'd found another deal on a $3000 zz30.
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Now that I had that correct chassis, I put it all together with a gt35 turbo, 2200cc injectors, E85 fuel system, and other matching performance parts short of internals I had it tuned at Humble Performance in Tulsa OK, making 544wHP on 24psi.


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I've since swapped the turbo manifold for a more efficient one and have the boost setting at 28-29psi, with some mild compensation to the fuel table to keep the afr safe, so I'd imagine at that level it's closer to 600wHP.


I've had one chance to take it to the track for a single run. I was on street tires so the launch was very soft and even still it had a fair amount of wheel spin.

1/8mile: 7.5 @ 101mph

1/4mile: 11.3 @ 135mph

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After that event I ordered a set of drag radials and drag wheels.
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Now that I've realized my full intentions with the car the progress so far has been to;

-Remove as much weight as possible to make up for the installation of an 8.50 NHRA cage, & accompanying safety equipment.

-Move my Air to Water Ice box and fuel cell as far forward as possible to act as ballast for some wheelie control.

- Build out a CSS k20 block and drag cartel valvetrain

 

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Don't forget to budget for a decent gear set. That k20 gear set won't last many passes with 600hp and drag slicks in the rear of a mid mounted car
 

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96 civic HX K24a
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This looks like a badass car. I watch the guys from humble pretty regularly 👍 the new meat in the rear is going to definitely provide some gear shredding grip 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don't forget to budget for a decent gear set. That k20 gear set won't last many passes with 600hp and drag slicks in the rear of a mid mounted car
A dog box transmission is part of the plan, it will just have to wait until this one inevitably breaks.
It's the most expensive single item in the process.
It's going to stay H - pattern, in case I want to sign it into events I don't get placed in the sequential category.
 

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A dog box transmission is part of the plan, it will just have to wait until this one inevitably breaks.
At which one do you look for? I am interested as on a side project I am also looking for one. The cheapest I've found is the Infinitude 6 gear set, but the gear set is more a circuit gear ratio then a drag gear ratio. Here in Europe there is also SQS Racing, which is a bit above pricing of the later. But they got good feedback from the racing scene. The MFactory set or even the Quaife dog box set is above my budget. So I am curious if you have some other options at your place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
There's only four dog box gear sets to choose from that I'm aware of, with a drag ratio set up.

Graf 1-4: $5899
(2.91 / 2.00 / 1.40 / 1.05)

PPG 1-4: $6038
(2.615 / 1.611 / 1.150 / 0.909)

Gear-X 1-4: $4895
(2.455 / 1.667 / 1.222 / 0.950)

Current ratio is a factory '03 RSX type s:
3.267 / 2.130 /1.517 / 1.147 / (5th gear) 0.921 / (6th gear) 0.738
FD Ratio 4.389

**these prices are on Nov. 21st, 2021 so they might be priced on a black Friday sale... IDK
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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great build, thank you for sharing. Do MR2's have a traction bar systems available similar to the ones the sell for the FWD market. A few buddies of mine have had MR2's with high levels of boost on Toyota engines and they would spin around and do 360 like nothing at 100mph from traction problems, hopping etc. With a Honda K, the engine will have more snap to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I purchase a Jeep Cherokee (xj) radiator with the hope it would fit behind the rear subframe.

It fits between the frame rails with about 8mm clearance on each side.

I will start fabricating mounts and sealing the oe inlet outlet bungs, and welding on my own in the appropriate location.

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96 civic HX K24a
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I purchase a Jeep Cherokee (xj) radiator with the hope it would fit behind the rear subframe.

It fits between the frame rails with about 8mm clearance on each side.

I will start fabricating mounts and sealing the oe inlet outlet bungs, and welding on my own in the appropriate location.

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Looks great. 3 fans hopefully will have temps under control without too much load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hopefully.
I'm going to run 6 gauge wire to them off a relay straight from the positive terminal block. I figured it's an "upgraded" 3 row for a 4.0L 6 cylinder it might be ok here.

Time will tell.
 

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I think it will do the job. Do you have any fresh air feeds to the engine compartment ? That’s what I have been working on in my car is how I can get a colder , better supply of air to the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have the factory side scoops.
If it becomes an issue I'll make a scoop / naca duct from underneath.
Im already going to have a sheet metal partition /heat shield over the radiator to shield it from radiant exhaust heat, and another one in front blocking hot air from the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A small update and an idea for serviceability.

I decided to not go through with a CSS block since I doubt I will reach those levels of necessitating a highly reinforced set of sleeves. I decided to use Chris Boyette's block filler. - I will have the machine shop cut in orings when they bore .5mm out for the new pistons.
i ordered Traum 86.5 pistons, and Manley Turbo Tuff rods.

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The serviceability of the engine and transmission, I have the idea to build an entire subframe that ties into all the mounting locations of the engine/trans so that I can drop then entire subframe, engine & trans as one entire unit.
I will accomplish this with additional bolted locations on the underside of the MR2 frame so it has more mounting location than just the four bolts behind the engine.

At the moment dropping the engine and transmission is an absolute dread.


I also purchased the SFI 25.5 book so I can fabricate/install all the floor bars now onto the standard NHRA 10 point cage so that "IF" I ever go faster than 8.50, I can fabricate/install the funny car cage and new door cross bars to be in compliance with 25.5.
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96 civic HX K24a
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I had a buddy do a d16 vitara build with concrete in the sleeves LOL. Just put the straws in it for the holes like you have and it made 490whp on 29psi, it got a little angry sitting and idling but driving around temps were normal and it never blew.
 

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I had a buddy do a d16 vitara build with concrete in the sleeves LOL. Just put the straws in it for the holes like you have and it made 490whp on 29psi, it got a little angry sitting and idling but driving around temps were normal and it never blew.
I wonder how close the thermal expansion ratios of concrete and aluminum are matched. You don't want your filler expanding significantly faster or slower than your block.
 

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I wonder how close the thermal expansion ratios of concrete and aluminum are matched. You don't want your filler expanding significantly faster or slower than your block.
100% right to be thinking of this. I did when I saw it lol. I thought it would overheat without a doubt and the water would eat away at the concrete over time putting little pieces of it into the cooling system. As well as be cracked by the metal.
 
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