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Sorry to bring this thread back but I ran into a problem.

Well after a cam install, my motor was making a whining noise and it was coming from the motor not anything else. I go back to check that I installed everything correctly and notice the timing was off. So I remove the tensioner cover and notice that the orange lock tab was aligned with the pin hole already. Turning the crank didn't budge it at all. So I unscrew the bolts to take out the tensioner and as I unscrew the the 2nd bolt the tensioner decompresses and jams itself in there. Again the lock tab is still stuck in the same position.

Now I can't remove the tensioner. Is my only option now to remove the timing cover?
 

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As of right now, I sell them individually for $100 + shipping. That includes a brand new tensioner. I will not modify used tensioners.
i was wondering what if u where to put small washers under the spring to act as a stop and also add more force to the spring so far i added 4 stacked little washers that give me the same stop point as the toda tentioner but also makes spring stiffer i think 4 makes it to stiff but id say 3 should be good enouf u think its a good idea or will it damage the chain and how much preshure is to much for the chain tentioner
 

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i was wondering what if u where to put small washers under the spring to act as a stop and also add more force to the spring so far i added 4 stacked little washers that give me the same stop point as the toda tentioner but also makes spring stiffer i think 4 makes it to stiff but id say 3 should be good enouf u think its a good idea or will it damage the chain and how much preshure is to much for the chain tentioner
You don't make a spring stiffer by putting washer under it. You actually just increase the pretension on the spring and reduce the travel distance before it goes into coil bind. If you wanted to increase the stiffness of the spring you'd have to increase the wire diameter of the coil or make it out of a different material all together.
 

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You don't make a spring stiffer by putting washer under it. You actually just increase the pretension on the spring and reduce the travel distance before it goes into coil bind. If you wanted to increase the stiffness of the spring you'd have to increase the wire diameter of the coil or make it out of a different material all together.
i under stand but u think added preload to the spring will help it from loseing tention on start up and save the teeth on the tct ?the coil bind i get is same bind depth as the toda tentioner i made it a little smaller tho so its about ths same as useing a 13mm dowel vs the toda one thats 15.6mm so my question is will the washer trick work or cause chain to snap thats y i want to know how much preload is to much has eney one ever tested out how much load it takes to cause chain to snap
 

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i under stand but u think added preload to the spring will help it from loseing tention on start up and save the teeth on the tct ?the coil bind i get is same bind depth as the toda tentioner i made it a little smaller tho so its about ths same as useing a 13mm dowel vs the toda one thats 15.6mm so my question is will the washer trick work or cause chain to snap thats y i want to know how much preload is to much has eney one ever tested out how much load it takes to cause chain to snap
The spring tension isn't the biggest problem with why the tensioners fail, it's due to the stress applied to the teeth themselves from aggressive ramp rates and high rpms. The solution chunky found when making this thread was just a band-aid to the problem, even he admitted that. Check out Skunk2 and Hybrid-Racing's technical research on why the tensioners are failing and how theirs are designed to solve this problem.

They both prove that the only correct way to fix the issue is to re-engineer the whole tensioner. Anything else is just a temporary fix.
 

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indeed the weakest link

nissan 240x uses timing belt on its 2.4 back in the 91+.. unsure if there was ever an issue like this but would be nice to keep searching. One day a customized totally redesigned tct will come out and more k20's will be out in the street without fear.

H22a1 had a hydraulic piston tensioner, very frustrating installing it bare handed. is like a third hand is needed to do the installation. I went looking for other people sharing the same problem and bumped in to an old school manual conversion.

just for your entertainment this was the issue on h22a1. hope something for k20's shows up soon

<a href="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e030.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e030.jpg" border="0"></a>

HYDRAULIC PISTON TENSIONER
<a href="http://media.photobucket.com/image/h22 auto tensioner/jk11blueboi/autotensioner.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/jk11blueboi/autotensioner.jpg" border="0"></a>

MANUAL CONVERSION

<a href="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e045.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e045.jpg" border="0"></a>
<a href="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e041.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e041.jpg" border="0"></a>

INSTALLED
http://www.superhonda.com/photopost/data/519/e0006.jpg
 

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that was a sample from another threat.. I was working on a h22 back in 2006. I'm working on a fa5 and just decided to throw a supercharger and have fun while saving up for a f2k fit swap later on. what rebuild you plan on?
 

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I'm driving a K24A6 Odyssey RB1.

Got hydro locked recently.

My plans are to do a complete overhaul with supertech & scat rods.

For future upgrades of cams, retainers and springs.

Maybe for this rebuild,ill change the tct with uprated tentioner so I don't have to do it later.

Any ideas?

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Also, if you have a PROBLEM SETUP and would like to help me collect some data, send me a PM and we cam talk about it further.

If your engine is not eating tensioners, just stick with what you have. I'm looking for some people that have setups that have experienced tensioner failure/chain breakage.

thanks. :)
hello i am french,do you know the better timing tensioner for skunk2 cams on the civic K20? ,sorry for my bad langage..Alain
 

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hello i am french,do you know the better timing tensioner for skunk2 cams on the civic K20? ,sorry for my bad langage..Alain
The Hybrid Racing tensioner seems to be the only one that makes a serious effort to deal with the vulnerabilities of the OEM design:
http://www.hybrid-racing.com/

That said, you might be better off using cams that are less hard on the chain--though perhaps Skunk redesigned those cams by now?
 

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Wow haven't seen this thread bumped in a long long time. The tensioners seem to be holding up better now that cam manufacturers redesigned the profiles for the chain motor (k series vs b series)
 

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What are the vulnerabilities of the OEM design?
To be clear, mine is stock and looks perfect even after tens of thousands of miles with aftermarket cams (I checked it when I last had the cams out).

That said, if you have cams that beat on your chain (or perhaps in sufficiently abusive use scenarios... people disagree on this point), then the teeth on the rod/piston/plunger (whatever it should be called) can get damaged.

HR beefed up their design by:
  • Putting teeth on two sides of the piston instead of just one.
  • Using larger teeth so that it would take more to damage one enough to slip.
  • Using tool steel for parts of the ratchet mechanism.
  • Tighter tolerance to reduce squirm where the plunger fits into the piece that contacts the chain.

I think all of that is overkill for most setups, and it is fairly expensive, but the other "improved" tensioners are essentially just half-assed mods to the OEM piece, which one could do themselves as described in this thread.
 

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This is why i was planning on buying the HR Tensioner the next time i'm due for a tensioner replacement. I can't find the thread but can anyone tell me why the HR tensioners were cracking after little use? Was it the material it was made out of? I remember seeing it somewhere...on this forum or another one i forget. Not saying they're bad tensioners i'm just wondering who had problems with them and why...
 

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This is why i was planning on buying the HR Tensioner the next time i'm due for a tensioner replacement. I can't find the thread but can anyone tell me why the HR tensioners were cracking after little use? Was it the material it was made out of? I remember seeing it somewhere...on this forum or another one i forget. Not saying they're bad tensioners i'm just wondering who had problems with them and why...
It wasn't the material. A few of them had faulty internal check valves. It wouldn't allow the oil out which would then cause pressure inside to build and when the piston would get rammed in, the pressure would get so high that the housing would crack. All of those issues were addressed and the valves were changed a bit to prevent that from happening again.
 
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