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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Oh man, I am really sorry to read that. What a pity and pain. I am really sorry for that. Are they going to refund you for that? So that at least the money is saved?
Hey Lotus, yes thankfully the seller was really cool and gave my money back. It has been a huge pain for me and the seller, very frustrating to say the least considering I'm trying to get into cars as a hobby to unwind and this doesn't help!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hey Lotus, yes thankfully the seller was really cool and gave my money back. It has been a huge pain for me and the seller, very frustrating to say the least considering I'm trying to get into cars as a hobby to unwind and this doesn't help!
Don't let you demotivate, this business is full of traps and pit falls. Experience and patience is always a good guide to see the aim on the hard way to it. I've paid around 2500 Euro's alone for low quality jobs, mismatched fabrication. Finally you get only happy by doing it yourself or doing it with people you know very good and you know they have passion for the topic. To many in this business does low quality jobs. The aftermarket is huge, the competition is not bad, but also not increasing the quality level. I saw low passioned work from big names in the 4 Piston business, low engineered for K engine tuned kits and tunes like my own VW TDI would north it. There are a lot of good things in it too, but to da ah day I need to recommend the more expensive elite like series and to da, just in case of your head need some mod ideas, energy must be put in dynamically. But it's like with all, we have to learn first before we see the bigger picture and before we grine from ear to ear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thank you, your knowledge and passion for these motors along with your attitude are very inspiring. I am not giving up on this no way as frusterating as that experience was. I probably will look for a block in person and avoid shipping my next one though. I just received my Carillo rods and they're fantastic looking so that's exciting! Next step is locating another block, there is actually a k24 in a yard close by although I'm not sure I want to yard a block in his heat.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I am not giving up on this no way as frusterating as that experience was
Very good, I am happy to read this. Honda also didn't gave up to hunger in F1 for competive engine. Now they even can overtake the massive money pit engine of Mercedes.

I just received my Carillo rods and they're fantastic looking so that's exciting!
Are you going to blue print it? I would recommend to measure all clearance relevant parameters and do your engine blue print stuff. It's a quality step, which is necessary to get a reliable engine.
 

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Are you going to blue print it? I would recommend to measure all clearance relevant parameters and do your engine blue print stuff. It's a quality step, which is necessary to get a reliable engine.
Not to mention, if you buy a couple tools and practice, you will learn more about your engine and save some money at the same time. Plus the pride in building something that comes with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Sounds like fun! I would love to hand blue print it. I always was so impressed with the oldschool engineers or machinist and everything was drawn by hand. I actually bought a brand spanking new Mitch bore gauge set already. I would love to attempt a re surface but I don't have a mill handy.

I'm considering grabbing that local engine if it's still there from the yard. I think it's 800 for the entire thing, if it's in good shape the convenience of it being so close is worth something too.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I would love to hand blue print it. I always was so impressed with the oldschool engineers or machinist and everything was drawn by hand.
Maybe there is a misunderstanding. Blue printing an engine means in a rough definition (in brackets are examples, no total listing), measure dimensions (main bearing bore, ...), weights (big end, small end, ...), kinematic conditions (cam phasing, TDC, ...) as well as definition and matching of clearances (main bearing, journals, small end, squish height, camshaft bearing, and so on). Blue printing an engine is the most important job to get the assembly done right for the specific application and power goal.

What you maybe understood is doing a blue print copy of an 2D and 3D for the purpose of replication. Engine blue printing uses that term blue printing in a more abstract derivation, taking information out of measurements and considerations of essential parts, conditions and physically mensurable dynamic properties of the engine and replicate them from various forms like weight, distances and so on in a readable form to run the assembly process based on well considered coherences. E.g. out of the small and big end weight one can calculate the connection rod bary center and with the piston system weight (piston, rings, pin, ...) one can calculate the ideal counter weight on the crankshaft for each application. In former days blue printing was an obvious duty job as the knowledge and control technology of the engine was lower and people gave more attention to e.g. balancing a crank drive. Today maybe 1 % of the hobbyists do a full blue print job, and even race teams do it not to a full level. It takes about 30-70 % of the time of the total assembly if one count the conclusions in form of work, like boring the counter weights. Blue printing an engine is for high end engines a good basis to hold loads more stable, to adapt application loads bandwidth's (e.g. temperature range behavior of piston to liner clearance) better and to reduce unnecessary friction and dynamic forces of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Wow...makes sense people skip that important step now days Lotus. Most enthusiasts building Honda's seem only concerned with making their car go strait as fast as possible until it explodes. Tremendous description of blueprinting a engine. Your knowledge is always impressive when I come on here and read what you have to say 👏 You are definitely a big part of what keeps this forum a float.

If there is one skill I have over anything when it comes to handy work it's measuring. I have a bit of a machinist background and as you know machinists don't really machine anymore they just measure stuff that a robot creates. I'm not tool and die maker but I know my way around a pair of calipers and micrometers.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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There are so many running this forum. I am really glad all these guys run the best K-series information. If those wouldn't share they knowhow and keep traffic alive the owners may close it and all the content would be lost.

If there is one skill I have over anything when it comes to handy work it's measuring. I have a bit of a machinist background and as you know machinists don't really machine anymore they just measure stuff that a robot creates. I'm not tool and die maker but I know my way around a pair of calipers and micrometers.
That's a very good ability to start with. I myself always start with some theory to get things sorted out before doing something practical, so I would also start with some book reading. There is literature available on that. A well priced and informative starter book would be e.g. the guide, written by Mike Mavrigian, which was released by S.A. Design (SA251) under the title "Modern Engine Blueprinting Techniques". The book was written with old US engine technique in mind, but most of the techniques apply also for a modern engine, like the K-series is it. There are books which go more deep into specific topics, as the Mavrignian text is a good overview what is state of the art, but it scratches on the surface. So for more deep diving you need specific literature you find partly on the internet or in books like Ludwig Apfelbeck's standard book. I am not sure if there is an English translation available, as he wrote it in German language. Maybe there are other race engine orientated guides available, which do more deep dive on the blue print side in the English literature.

Anyway, not to loose the aim of building out of the focus. A write down of the application requirements, power requirements and a possible part list for the thermodynamically necessary parts (H, IM, CAI, ...) and enginebay related design concept (pipe routing, heat management and location, ...) comes before blue printing the total disassembled basis and doing the math for the new build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I just got back from the yard and I purchased 3 engines. two k24 from 06/07 TSX and a k20 from a RSX. All supposedly ran when got to the yard. What are the chances I got 3 pieces of garbage? The important part is that there are no cracks in the engine correct? Worn parts including sleeves can be replaced I gather? All engine bays were in good shape they just had some body damage and such.

Also still need to go get a hoist, so I will need that ASAP. They are pulling the engines for me thankfully.

I also got my blueprinting book and it looks really informative. Looking forward to reading it.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Sounds like you are back on track after that DELIVERY mess.

The important part is that there are no cracks in the engine correct?
As for the block definitely, if it can not be repaired. The stuff is more sensitive: crank, pistons, rods, bearings. Here your book may and your measuring experience may help to find out what is the status and what has to be done next. I think you should create a precise idea of what you expect from each detail: bearing clearances, part integrity and so on, this will massively help to role out your approach to blue print this engine project and get a real good basis.

Worn parts including sleeves can be replaced I gather?
Yes, by taking the hone surface to the next oversize or by build in wet sleeves (e.g. Darton Sleeves).
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Haha yes thanks guys! Feeling good about these motors so far! My only concern now is finding a engine shop to resurface and hone. I suppose if there is not much warping a resurface isn't necessary but if I try o make everything else perfect it seems like a crucial step.

Resurfacing is actually a procedure I have no doubt I could do on my own, especially on a aluminum surface. Resurfacing is just milling pretty much one of the first machines and procedures you learn to use. I have never seen a honing machine in real life but I would really like to try it. It would be really funny if I got so into engines I opened my own shop. Dare to dream 😆

One step at a time of course I'm getting carried away again. Not a lot of hobbies have pique my interest quite like engines though so far in my life. Finishing your own engine build and getting everything dialed in and dyno'd is probably one of the most satisfying feelings!
 

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Haha yes thanks guys! Feeling good about these motors so far! My only concern now is finding a engine shop to resurface and hone. I suppose if there is not much warping a resurface isn't necessary but if I try o make everything else perfect it seems like a crucial step.

Resurfacing is actually a procedure I have no doubt I could do on my own, especially on a aluminum surface. Resurfacing is just milling pretty much one of the first machines and procedures you learn to use. I have never seen a honing machine in real life but I would really like to try it. It would be really funny if I got so into engines I opened my own shop. Dare to dream 😆

One step at a time of course I'm getting carried away again. Not a lot of hobbies have pique my interest quite like engines though so far in my life. Finishing your own engine build and getting everything dialed in and dyno'd is probably one of the most satisfying feelings!
If you take a flat edge and run it along the bottom of the cylinder head you can see if it’s warped with a feeler gauge. If you can fit the thinnest gauge anywhere between the mating surface and the flat edge it needs resurfaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Alright guys I got my POS engine hoist and stand together. This is my first time lifting and moving a engine and really this part is making me the most skeptical. It doesn't look like rocket science or anything so I should be good to go, wish me luck!

edite: looks like I hit another speed bump. I will need bolts to mount the engines to the engine stand. Found this "M12x1.25 and pretty long. Like 60-70mm" on the forum in a search for the bolt size. Sound correct?

104649


Here's a picture of the 3 chunky girls sitting in the bed. Still waiting on me buying bolts and chains to move them.
 

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Alright guys I got my POS engine hoist and stand together. This is my first time lifting and moving a engine and really this part is making me the most skeptical. It doesn't look like rocket science or anything so I should be good to go, wish me luck!

edite: looks like I hit another speed bump. I will need bolts to mount the engines to the engine stand. Found this "M12x1.25 and pretty long. Like 60-70mm" on the forum in a search for the bolt size. Sound correct?

View attachment 104649

Here's a picture of the 3 chunky girls sitting in the bed. Still waiting on me buying bolts and chains to move them.
3 motors , not a bad problem to have 👍😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Haha! I'm nervous after watching Diymike when had to use a 10 foot bar combined with a tire iron to break the crank bolt. The k20 has more miles than that motor for sure!
 

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Haha! I'm nervous after watching Diymike when had to use a 10 foot bar combined with a tire iron to break the crank bolt. The k20 has more miles than that motor for sure!
All you need is a weighted 19mm socket and a decently powerful impact. The weight of the socket transfers the full torque impact of the gun and makes light work of them.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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This is my first time lifting and moving a engine and really this part is making me the most skeptical. It doesn't look like rocket science or anything so I should be good to go, wish me luck!
A man, a word. Great to see you are pulling this project even once it hit you hard budget-wise!

Here's a picture of the 3 chunky girls sitting in the bed. Still waiting on me buying bolts and chains to move them.
Very nice. Looks like these are two TSX engines and one K24A4, aren't they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
104675


Thanks to the stock market I got used to taking losses, much heavier than anyhing I could lose in these projects! 💲💀🤦‍♂️

Got them moved and one on the engine stand! Moving the engine from the hoist to stand was definitely the sketchiest part, found if I bring the boom out to 1/2 ton I can attach the stand while it's in the air and lower it.

They're two k24a2, one from a 06 and one 07 TSX and one k20a3 from a RSX, 24a2 is good no? I got almost all of the hoses off, most had to be cut and carfully pried off as they were like glued on pretty good. Can't wait to see inside Praying for a smooth ride cracking this thing open.. I will definitely be picking up a weighted 19mm! 👨‍🔧
 

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View attachment 104675

Thanks to the stock market I got used to taking losses, much heavier than anyhing I could lose in these projects! 💲💀🤦‍♂️

Got them moved and one on the engine stand! Moving the engine from the hoist to stand was definitely the sketchiest part, found if I bring the boom out to 1/2 ton I can attach the stand while it's in the air and lower it.

They're two k24a2, one from a 06 and one 07 TSX and one k20a3 from a RSX, 24a2 is good no? I got almost all of the hoses off, most had to be cut and carfully pried off as they were like glued on pretty good. Can't wait to see inside Praying for a smooth ride cracking this thing open.. I will definitely be picking up a weighted 19mm! 👨‍🔧
Yes those are the good ones. You have 2 sets of the most desirable cams from an oem k series 06-08 k24a2. I’ve been looking for an 06-08 intake cam lol.
 
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