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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Everyone,

Wanted to put my skills and education to good use and contribute to the community. My name is Ping and I am a mechanical engineering student in the Arctic North (Canada). I will give you some background, what I am doing and why I am doing it…

Went to University of Waterloo from 2010 – 2015 for a Mechanical Engineering degree, joined a student competition series called Formula SAE, where we design, build, test and compete with an open-wheel-single-seater powered by a hybrid drivetrain. Had to learn everything from vehicle design theory to vehicle dynamics, from computer modeling of various components to manufacturing of said components, various use of hand tools, machining tools and of course how to ghetto-rig some last minute things with zip-ties and hose clamps. If anyone is interested I have attached the website of our team to this post as well

http://waterloohybrid.com

So with these acquired skills I wanted to build my own car into a performer, but time is limited and not much happened on my personal vehicle during my education, but it’s been a year since I graduated and finally things are looking up. My goal for the car is to set the lap record at Toronto Motorsport Park (commonly called Cayuga) in the street class on a budget.

Purchased a 2000 Black EK Hatch back in 2012, daily drove it for a year and a half until the oil consumption became a handful on the original D16Y7 with 32x,xxx kilometres or (200k miles). In that year and half’s time, I read forums for hundreds of hours researching the K swap and tracking the 6th Gen chassis. Mainly information from K20a.org, Honda-Tech, Club Civic and some random forums, but I wanted to choose K20a.org to post this thread because I probably spent the most amount of time here for all the K Swap information.

Over the next 3 years juggling school, life, work and all sorts of s*** I finally managed to complete a K20A swap with the Hasport EKK2 kit as well as converting to a 5 lug setup (mainly for the better brakes).

June 2016, went for dyno tune, finished up with 225 whp and 153 lbft, which I was very happy with :new_slayer:

July and August, signed up for some autocross events in the area. Sadly I was pretty disappointed with the result as I put a lot of effort, time and money towards this project, but only managed to be middle of the pack in these events. I cannot let the slew of miatas, BRZ/FRS, and Locci beat my K20 EK.

Due to my background, having computer models of everything is almost essential if you want to understand and make improvements to an existing vehicle without making too many mistakes. The method of experimentally designing and testing performance improvement parts will take way too long and require too much money that I simply cannot afford to do. So having access to the important information about the car such as the suspension geometry, body style, mainly chassis mount points and essential vehicle specifications is an absolute must.

Started searching for these information and to my surprise there is basically nothing despite that this chassis is such a common track toy, the amount of aftermarket companies and the number of race teams that tracks Civics.

I even found drawings and CAD models for entire suspension of a Pontiac Fiero which someone painstaking made for their community.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/117227.html

Only potentially beneficial find was on GrabCAD where someone is modelling an EG Hatch for Drag racing, however when I downloaded the files there was nothing useful but a bunch of pictures. Attached link if anyone cares.
https://grabcad.com/library/1000-hp-turbo-92-95-drag-civic-hatch-build-b-series-engine-solidworks-build-project-1#!

What got me pissed off and really started this project was a dude in my area that wanted $200 bucks for an ITR 22mm rear ARB, how expensive the aftermarket companies want to charge for a rear ARB for the EK chassis, and the lack of information on one of the most tracked cars ever made. So shoutout to my man from Brampton, Ontario, driving that yellow EG coupe, without you I wouldn’t be doing this.

Sooo I am done my rant now…

I will be going through and try to model every major component of the EK chassis such as all the suspension mounting points, all the suspension components and conduct some vehicle dynamics and kinematics analysis for the civic community.

If anyone has models, measurements, drawings on a napkin, or any useful information that they can provide please check out my facebook page “APEX Performance Engineering” and send me a message. This is going to be a pretty long project as you can imagine and we will see where it ends up.

IF anyone wants to use the information and/or models within this project can do so, however please mention my Facebook page or reference back to this thread.
https://www.facebook.com/APEXPerformanceEngineering/

I have also attached the Dropbox link for all the information that I will be using and all the resultant CAD models which will be in SolidWorks 2014 format.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gm4z4sy442fqb2z/AABZCETsgsLN5xDpx-5K-RUGa?dl=0
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Currently the engine/chassis/suspension combination is as follows.
K20A with EKK2
EG manual steering rack (too slow)
DC2 front subframe w/o the extra stiffener bar
DC2R front knuckles, hubs and brakes
EK UCA eventually upgraded to skunk2
DC2R rear trailing arm assembly
Hard race adjustable toe arms
Hard race adjustable camber arms
Stock rear LCA with Hard race bushings
ASR rear subframe brace

No sway bars as of right now, which I would like to design once some of the measurements are in place.

At the very least I have managed to find the frame chart for the EK, EG and DC2 in the uploaded manuals, which takes care of the rear suspension points and the front upper control arm mount points.

The missing information are:
X = Done
IP= In Progress
= Have nothing

[ ]Front sub-frame measurements
[IP]Front lower control arm measurements
[X]Front upper control arm measurements
[ ]Front shock fork measurements
[ ]Steering rack, and tie rod measurements
[ ]Front knuckle and rotating assembly measurements
[ ]Stock or some aftermarket front sway bar measurements
[X]Rear lower control arm measurements
[X]Rear upper control arm measurements
[ ]Rear toe link measurements
[IP]Rear trailing arm measurements
[ ]Rear rotating assembly measurements
[ ]Stock or aftermarket rear sway bar measurements

If anyone has any of this information please contact me via facebook or send me a message
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Some Updates:

CADed up the EK RLCA which i found the dimensions on Honda-Tech

Along with the purchase of the ASR subframe brace, I was able to find all the mounting points of the suspension to the chassis as well as the rear anti-roll bar mounting points.

EK/EG/DC Rear Upper Control Arm
Length from pivot to pivot is ~170mm +- 1mm
https://instagram.com/p/BIbZIGYjqjV

Designed a Anti-Roll/Sway Bar because I didn't have any other concrete numbers to work off of, so this will have to do for now
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJCAC0LDVfG

Made everything myself... took about 2 month because I suck at machining and a series of little things got in the way, but after about a month of going to the machine shop for 1-2 hours every other day, it is finally done.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BK80KFEj4To

Installed it the first time and it didn't fit because I messed up one of my measurements. Fixed it up and everything went together just fine. Here is a picture of the ARB installed
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLG_UVujr7h

So just to clarify why I did this instead of buying something that is already out on the market
1. Cost: because Canadian $$ everything appears more expensive
22mm ITR bar $120-150
23mm ITR bar $150-250
ASR 24mm bar $250-300
ASR 1in hollow bar $300-400
ASR 32mm hollow bars $600+
My custom bar, material cost: $200, hardware & misc: $100
My time machining: $0, worthless because graduate students gets paid nothing to do slave labor anyways....
Access to machine shop and an assortment of tools through the school so: $0

2. Adjustability: All OE bars offer zero adjustability, ASR bars has a couple of holes to adjust for stiffness, but the increment jumps are pretty big
Custom bar: Coarse stiffness adjust with bolt hole changes on the passenger side, with fine adjustments made on the driver side by rotating a blade type adjuster. This type of setup is very common on dedicated race cars, usually coupled with cock-pit adjusters to account for fuel load changes.

3. Design whatever stiffness I want, most will say that going from no bar, to ITR bar is transformational in terms of handling, but interestingly all of ASR's product offerings are stiffer than OE, so does that mean they will handle even better?? With that logic then we should all strap on the biggest fricking sway bar there is... well obviously it doesn't work that way. I designed my bar to be just a tad stiffer than the 23mm ITR bar and made it adjustable to an equivalent of a 27mm solid bar, which is 1 mm bigger than the mugen bar. Reasoning for this is that I am going to participate in both track and autocross events, decimating that I will want a stable rear end on track but a very loose rear end at autocross.

4. Lastly, because of my old FSAE history, I enjoy the challenge

Will update again with testing data and impressions of the newly added sway bar
 
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