im running a a3 harness and kpro. kpro is the ecuthis is good stuff cant believe im just seeing this... what ecu you running with the kpro and the a3 harness? im doing the same thing into a 03 ep3 soon and im trying to run the a3 harness/ ecu with kpro... any thoughts or suggestions?
BIGDADDDDY PLEASE PLEASE send me your email or something for i can contact you i have a few questions just to clarify please and thank youi went from a k20a3 to the k24a2, with a base rsx retaining the transmission from the base. pics are in no particular order
i just finished mine a week ago, and i think a thread with experiences would be of great ebenfit to others. heres some parts you will need to make the swap easier:
cr-v or element passenger side front cover mount
innovative motor mounts 60a, full set (recommended)
upgraded clutch (recomended)
rbc (uncut) or k24 intake manifold (this is to save time and effort from tapping the head if you use a k20 manifold)
helms manual for the rsx
type s throttle body (complete with sensors)
thermal intake manifold gasket (k24)
karcepts or blox adapter
type s intake and air filter of your choice, i went with a injen cai
upper tsx radiator hose ( this is where i got mine
i also recomend since you will have the motor out, replacing the serpentine belt, and all the radiator hoses. dont buy the damn samco hoses like i did. you will have to trim the lower hose to fit properly, and the upper one will bend too much and will be pretty much useless.
parts you will have to re-use:
power steering pump
kpro (if you dont have this, stop, do not go any further, do not attempt the swap until you get it)
header or exhaust manifold
black metal evap and vacuum piping that ran from the side of the cylinder head
its best to read the damn helms first, they have a step by step process on pulling the motor, which i wish i would have read first.
parts or options you will not be able to use after swap:
the a/c low press hose wont clear properly the rbc. even if it does, one hard ass launch and the manifold will crush the fitting on the hose and you can kiss it goodbye. however, here is a solution:
Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum
also, i havent attempted to reconnect the cruise control throttle cable
put the car on jack stands, preferable on all four corners. the swap is pretty easy, basically you disconnect the battery, then the harness from the ecu, pull the harness out of the fire wall, disconnect the charge harness and the harness from the radiator, disconnect the a/c lines and power steering lines. if you disconnect the a/c and power steering, get ready for one hell of a mess with oil. disconnect the shifting cables, the slave cylinder (unbolt the bracket, dont disconnect the lines, but do disconnect the line brackets from the tranny, and move the assembly out of the way. also disconnect the throttle cables. remove cv joints.
raise the car, get under drain the radiator and the engine. once its all done, disconnect the radiator hoses and the vacuum lines leading to the master cylinder. also disconnect the hoses going into the heater core. disconnect the fuel rail. even with the radiator drain coolant will be everywhere, keep your dogs and other pets the hell away. disconnect the header too while your under the car, its best if you simply remove it altogether.
once you have the motor disconnected completely, connect the hoist hookups on the tranny. now your gonna have to be creative about the pass side mount. we used a ratchet strap and had it wrap around the mount ear (coming from the front cover mount to the body cup mount) . once you get tension on the hoist, cherry picker what have you, lift. your car should come off the jacks. as long as you have the emergency brake on, nothing should happen but the front lifts. this is just to check and make sure you have the hoist on correctly. once you verify this, lower the hoist, but keep light tension on the hoist. make sure the car is still sitting on the jack stands, and its safe.
get under the car, and using your trusty 17mm, unbolt the rear and front mounts by loosening and pulling out the big ass bolt that goes through them. come back up from the car, and on the tranny mount, we found no other way to deal with it other than unbolting the entire mess, retaining plate and the whole mount. then on the pass side, unbolt the ear from the body cup mount. once you have checked and double checked everything is disconnected, have a friend lift the hoist while you guide the motor out. it will try to grab everthing on its way out. lift the engine and move it to a safe and clear work area.
on the k20 engine:
remove all the pumps and alternator.
remove tranny from engine
disconnect the entire harness from motor
unbolt and gently pry out the crank sensor (i had to, you may not)
on the k24a2 engine:
install all the pumps and alternator
install the k20 thermostat housing, but reuse the black metal tubing from the k24, as well as the hoses from the k24 thermostat housing.
install intake manifold
install crank sensor
install throttle body and everything else (note! if using k20a3 harness, you will have to re-wire the tps. its very easy to do. if the wires go into the harness like this ----->123, you will rewire it like this ----->321. you simply reverse the outside wires. you may also have to extend the wires.
you may also have to extend the wires to the ect sensor.
install black piping for vacuum and evac on the side of the cylinderhead as before, reconnect all vacuum lines from manifold and throttle body
once you have everything wired up and ready to go, connect the engine and tranny the same way you did the other engine, lift with hoist, and gently lower into the bay. during this process we opted to install the header with the engine aboiut 75% of the way into the engine bay. its a lil tricky, but it made it easier for it to clear the sway bar. i knew it was gonna be a pain in the ass to install with the motor all the way in.
continue to lower engine in, and while its still on the hoist, go under and begin to rebolt the engine mounts. you may have to have a friend raise and lower the motor while you attempt to rebolt it, becuase its a lil tricky, but nothing serious.
once you have the engine bolted in place, reconnect everything. you will have to trim the lower radiator hose to get it to fit properly. make sure you use the tsx upper radiator hose to get it to fit properly. before installing the upper radiator hose, pour coolant directly into the fitting for the upper radiator hose on the engine itself, if you dont do this, the motor WILL overheat. install your intake pipe and filter, if your going from a k20a3 to k24a2 you will have to extend the wires to the iat sensor.
once you have verified everything is connected, and i do mean everything, including the damn fuel rail. if you dont reconnect it and try to do the following step, prepare for a bath in fuel. get into the car and boot up k manager on your laptop. this is important, i ****ed this up and got a load of errors from using the wrong cal and couldnt understand why. if you using a k24a2 from a 04-05 tsx, do yourself a favor, get the latest update of kmanger and click on open, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the cal list, and low and behold, 04-05 tsx stock. load that cal up. go through it real quick, uncheck the following boxes:
disable idle valve (idle tab)
countershaft driven speed sensor (if you dont uncheck this box you will never hit vtec) (misc tab)
check the following bullet:
multiplexer-normal operation (misc tab)
also make sure you go into the gear comp tab and select the proper transmission
REFILL ALL FLUIDS!!!!
once everything is loaded up to the ecu and you have triple quadruple verified everything is connected properly..........crank that ****ing motor
chances are it will not turn over immediately but once it does, if that throttle body was used and hasnt been used in a while, prepare for some mean damn idle surge. if you leave the motor running while checking the k manager for errors, eventually it will stop surging. you might have to turn off the motor after it has run for a while before it does stop but it will, unless the idle air valve is really dirty.
continue to check for leaks and anything else that could cause problems. your gonna want to run the motor with the radiator cap off for a while, until it burps out the air pocket it most likely got from not having any coolant in it.
if i forgot something i will chime back in and update
people i gotta thank:
my wife for not divorcing me and understanding finally the strange obsession with cars
george harrel for helping with the swap
mike beghtol for offering up his never ending knowledge and helping me get the 4 day pass to get the time off to do the swap
jared for the great deal on the motor
Type-'S'paz for the cr-v bracket and for the info and insight
HrtMyHnDa for the great deals on some of the parts that went into the swap
erik loza for always answering my questions and pointing out how easily i overlook everything without saying a word
wesessiah for remote tuning the k20a3 i had and also helping with this motor
www.horsepowerfreaks.com my sponsors
www.militarytuners.com for all the support and motivation
and last but certainly not least,
if i forgot someone, my bad, i will fix it.
my parts list:
2005 tsx engine
prosport oil temp and press gauges
greddy ti-c 70mm exhaust (type s)
inejn cai for type s
innovative motor mounts 60a, full set
competition clutch stage 2 clutch
competition clutch lightweight flywheel
aem fuel rail (not yet installed)
dc sports race header (type s)
base rsx transmission
samco lower radiator hose (k20)
gates upper tsx radiator hose
cr-v front cover bracket
integra type r valve cover
i changed the oil 3 times on this motor, the first oil change was to get the engine running properly, then i changed the oil and drove it for a week, then changed it again. i did this becuase this motor hasnt run in a while, and when we drained the oil it came out capucino. the motor runs fine, so basically i figure the oil looked like shit becuase it had been out in the open around some decent moisture. i will be changing the spark plugs once i get the street tune done.
also- running the cal that comes with the k mangaer update will make the motor run pig rich on w.o.t. . i have seen afr's in the low 11's when i stomp on it, and they slowly climb to the 12s but they dont move from there.
This is a forum. Members clarify question in threads of discussion contributions. bigdaddy didn't log in since 2011, so I would appreciate your question to be added to this thread. I assume other members can help you too.BIGDADDDDY PLEASE PLEASE send me your email or something for i can contact you i have a few questions just to clarify please and thank you
I’m using the A8 block, will I regret that decision. What are some draw backs. I am getting the engine sent out. Don’t know where yet thoAcme, I know they already explained the K-Pro thing a bit but I just wanted to add something. Your ECU and injectors are set up to only provide enough gas for a 2.0L engine. What happens when you have a 2.4 L and giving it the same amount of gas as a 2.0L? Runs lean.
This thread was nice to see. I went through pretty much the same thing with my RSX-S. Although there were differences like I reused my head (repaired after K20A2 blew up), sensors and pretty much everything else, the build went the same. Got a K24A2 block for $400. I had to use the CRV coolant hard line though because the K20A2 head exterior is similar to the K24A1 head. HATED the AC line that runs over top of the engine. Your build is a lot nicer though. Mine was a ghetto build. No performance mods other than K-Pro and the K24 really. Still stock exhaust and a SRI.
Car still feels awesome. I drove it last night. Was parked most of winter.
Welcome to K20a.org @Evil_Guate .I’m using the A8 block, will I regret that decision. What are some draw backs. I am getting the engine sent out. Don’t know where yet tho
Will I have an problems running proper VTEC? Isn’t the A8 an efficiency motor, I heard somewhere that it doesn’t have an oil port for VTEC accusation (I’m still new to all of this.)Welcome to K20a.org @Evil_Guate .
If you use the stock block without modifications to mount a K20A2 or K20Z3 head on it, you should be aware the deck height may lead to an collision of piston and head. The K24A4 and K24A8 piston height are bigger then the ones from an e.g. K24A2 or K24A1. So a piston swap help: aftermarket with 30 mm piston height or K24A2/A1 stock ones.