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The best thing about running a steel pan and getting a scrape with a pinhole. Just wipe the area around the hole, wet your hands and knead it until it's mixed and like bubble gum. Don't even have to drain/remove the pan. Great if you're in the middle of nowhere.



Lowered stance will kill any pan BTW.
 

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This is a great post, really cool that you took the time to do this thanks. I was able to find this by googling k20 pan clearance. :raisins:
 

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UPDATE: changed oil pan today on K20Z3 for the K24;
-oil pick up was hitting the bottom of the k24 pan not allowing me to bolt it up all the way; so we hammered the oil pick up a little bit but not enough to hurt it or hurt the screen and that was the only way the K24 pan would fit on the Z3
:mad:
did you ever have any problems doing this?

im having the hardest time finding a steel oil pan that will fit my k20z3. from what im told you can only use the z3 pan which is like $260 at the dealership compared to a $65 doller steel one. ive read that you can use the steel one on other posts aswell but theyre not specific on what k24 pan you can use. im sure you cant use the k24 pan that fits the a2 because i tried to use a a2 because i had it laying around and wasnt even close to working. just want to clarify things up

will a k24a1 or k24a4 oil pan work with a k20z3 without internal changes? im aware that you have to change the bolts to smaller ones and the mounting to the tranny isnt used either.
 

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did you ever have any problems doing this?

im having the hardest time finding a steel oil pan that will fit my k20z3. from what im told you can only use the z3 pan which is like $260 at the dealership compared to a $65 doller steel one. ive read that you can use the steel one on other posts aswell but theyre not specific on what k24 pan you can use. im sure you cant use the k24 pan that fits the a2 because i tried to use a a2 because i had it laying around and wasnt even close to working. just want to clarify things up

will a k24a1 or k24a4 oil pan work with a k20z3 without internal changes? im aware that you have to change the bolts to smaller ones and the mounting to the tranny isnt used either.

I used a K24 pan and since the oil pick up on the Z3 is so low because of the oem pan i hammered the inside of the k24 pan with a hammer and then a rubber hammer enough for the oil pick up to sit with a little clearance once the pan was bolted, the car was daily driven and i never had an issue with that set up. i sold that car 2 yrs ago and the new owner never had issues as well, but then the car was stolen and probably stripped somewhere


k24 pan on k20z3 (no wheel gap)



and then the hideous k20z3 pan that hit everywhere and cracked
 

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I used a K24 pan and since the oil pick up on the Z3 is so low because of the oem pan i hammered the inside of the k24 pan with a hammer and then a rubber hammer enough for the oil pick up to sit with a little clearance once the pan was bolted, the car was daily driven and i never had an issue with that set up. i sold that car 2 yrs ago and the new owner never had issues as well, but then the car was stolen and probably stripped somewhere


k24 pan on k20z3 (no wheel gap)



and then the hideous k20z3 pan that hit everywhere and cracked
yea thats how low mine sits maybe even lower haha but my car is raised up alot and i want to go lower but i cant cause of the pan. my pil pan cracked going over train tracks. that sound like it would work just the fact of taking a hammer to the pan and the pickup seems a bit sketchy to me.
 

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your not hammering the pick up. your hammering the pan which is meant to be able to dent in and not crack.
didnt you say you used a rubber hammer on the pickup? and it doesnt bother me using a hammer to hit the pan out more but using a rubber hammer on the pickup seems sketch.
 

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bringing this back to life.

So ill be running a full a2 motor and I get the rbb stamped oil pan, wow cant believe there only 35 bucks :). Anyways, has anyone welded a thin piece of steel to the deepest portion or to all the pan for reinforcement? I would much rather throw sparks than dent my pan, and constantly change them out. I used this same tactic for the resonator on my world sport 2 exhaust. Being that the resonater was the lowest point

I would scrape sometimes and throw sparks, but I never had a leak or dent.
 

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I've done Two K-swaps, both daily driven. That should answer your main question.

I have also replaced 8 oil pans. It comes with the territory, the only way to safeguard your oil pan is to ride around stock height.

-Froth
you could try build a rally style skid plate to protect it... but then it will probably cost more than $35 unless you fab it yourself. thanks for posting the cutaways. great info.

:new_slayer:
 

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No wonder the RRC oil pump wont fit using the K24 oil pan... The k20 pump BARELY fits. BTW what would happen if you didn't use the oil baffle plate under the block?
 

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Anyone knows oil pump clearance on a full K24A2 + k20a2 grinded oil pump + k20a2 aluminium pan?

Been through the most important threads about oil pumps/pans but didn't find any of that specific setup.

Also, does anyone know if the dipstick will need to be cutted in order to avoid hitting the a2 oil pan? I think i've seen pictures of both pans and they seem to be almost identical but would like to confirm it.

Thanks.
 

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So far from research and experiece of fitting k24 oil pans on k20z3/Cl7 oil pumps is to dent the oil pump pickup and oil pan(which doest work i just foun out)
With k20a2 oil pumps the k24 oil pans just barely clears but is good enough.(as shown in page one of this thread)
So if you people have k20z3/cl7 k20 oil pump and want to use k24 steel oil pan,you will have to dent pan pickup.ok lets start
the block is k20a (cl7 euro accord which uses same oil pump as k20z3 with balace shafts etc and has the deepest OEM aluminium oil pan.
In pic is steel RBB oil pan


If i try to place it over


There is enough gap

Have a last look on cute looking RBC pump pickup cone


Time for hammer,rubber or iron? lets see

its doest work at all.the metal is very thick to be bent by rubber hammer
Lets use big iron one

after some time but still not enough

meanwhile i had an idea,which will feed anough oil if even your pump is touching the pan,place a screw driver and hammer it to produce a dent.


i created 4 such dents in all corners

at end horrible looking but excellent clearace.in pic it seems like metral is hitting the guaze but its not.

The screw driver method is not a must but by this you will have oil even if the pan gets a dent etc.now you have 4 grooves to feed oil.
A Tip when you feel that oil pan is not somuch grinding with cone now and oil pan sits flush with block,than use screw driver method to make grooves over it.because making grooves also adds to overall bend.so if you will start screw driver method after oil pan is complately clear,than you will over do it.(sorta i did)
At end the pan sits perfect.


One can inquire how much you dent it? the answer from my experince is that you start denting and again put oil pan over it,you will feel the oil pump pickup code grinding against the oil pan,that means its still hitting.
and i tried denting the steel pan but k20z3/cl7 oil pumps are too deep.so it wont help.you will need to bend the oil pump pick up cone!
Yes i tried
 
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