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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(Note, this is a lazy copy/paste from my thread on CRSX)

Performance Mods –
Kpro
Injen CAI
Prodrive Free Flow Exhaust 2.36" ID Assumed (Soon to be Kteller 3")
Brian Crower Stage 2 ¾ Race Cams
SuperTech Dual Valve Springs w/Ti Retainers
DCRH (Soon to be Hytech!)
RBC IM
RC 550cc injectors
Brian Crower Stroker Kit
11.8:1cr CP Pistons @ 89mm bore, 92mm stroke crankshaft
Brian Crower Con-Rods
Supertech Nitride Valves
BDL 70mm Throttle Body with Port Matched Intake Mani and RBC Karcepts Adapter

No, this is NOT a thread asking the difference. This is a thread SHOWING the difference. I should have the brian crowers in my hands TOMORROW! I will be installing them soon and posting up my results after I get tuned at church auto, with a comparison line on my dyno graph of my previous setup of Crower Stage 2 cams.

This thread will be dedicated to the difference of Crower Stage II 3/4 Race NA cams vs. Brian Crower Stage II 3/4 Race NA Cams on a FULLY BUILT SETUP!

I also have on order a new Hytech Header and soon to purchase Kteller 3" Exhaust piping with accompanying exhaust of unknown brand (because I haven't decided). I can't put the Hytech on until I get a 3" exhaust though because the header is being custom made to 3" collector and flange. So with that being said, the results of the dyno you will see in the upcoming time will be on a DCRH with a 2.36 free flowing Exhaust. If you're curious about all my mods (if you don't already know) please click on my car domain link as I'm too lazy to post them all here.

And so it begins.

*Edit*

Cams are in my possession. They get installed this thursday and I'm goin to church on saturday for tune and results!

*Edit 2*

AND THE RESULTS ARE IN!!!

Blue line is the CROWER cams. Green line is the BRIAN CROWER cams.

As you can obviously see I gained 10 ft/lbs at peak and lost 11hp at peak. BUT there were gains all throughout the board on both ends, the best showing as much as 20 ft/lbs of torque in the lower rpm range. The car feels great in the daily driving aspect and I don't necessarily feel much of a difference higher up. The crossover is MUCH more pronounced now, as far as audible queue goes. I'm pleased with the results but also upset at the results because this put me farther from my 300hp goal, BUT it's entirely possible that the exhaust is holding me back that much more now. I don't know for sure, I couldn't tell you. But here you have it, what we've all been waiting for. Now for my Hytech and 3", coming up on the next episode of Kevin mods his ride! *Video coming soon*
So just to clarify...the top set of numbers are the CROWER cams. The bottom set of numbers are the BRIAN CROWER cams.





 

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IMAKEBOOSTATIDLE
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That DC header is Killing it for you... You will hit 300 or close to it with a Hytech Header and 3". I personally believe that the IPS K10 would put you well over the 300 mark or even the KME.
 

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thanks for sharing.. interesting results. There is a lot in the graphs to be learned about cam design,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ImportRacer2123 said:
That DC header is Killing it for you... You will hit 300 or close to it with a Hytech Header and 3". I personally believe that the IPS K10 would put you well over the 300 mark or even the KME.
K10's would for sure put me over the 300 mark, but they're NOT streetable at all. I've thought about KME's and maybe sometime down the line, we'll see. I might do a BCR vs. Hytech soon for more comparison purposes (and to find the right cam for me). Hytech header is ordered and paid for, just waiting for it to be ready for pick up. I'm chomping at the bit about it too! Heh.
 

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Nice dyno comparison the BC cams make way better midrange power than the Crowers.

Kevin949 said:
K10's would for sure put me over the 300 mark, but they're NOT streetable at all.
The k10's are streetable. I am running the k2 Stroker cams which have k10 low lobes with K2 VTEC lobes and my k24 idles about 800 and thats with ITB's. But I will have an actual dyno comparison here soon of K10's and the k2 strokers.
 

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IMAKEBOOSTATIDLE
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oooooooooooo see kevin the K10's are streetable!! in for 320whp!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
haha, ok ok. It's just that all the dynos I've seen of K10's START at like 5k rpm's.

Well, we'll see where we go from here but I'm more into dynoing and comparing the lesser known, lesser purchased cams to get some numbers out there for those companies and for the community to have some hard proof of performance.

Plus, I have another issue I need to get taken care of first before I start working on different cams. LoL
 

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Nice results, good to see some fresh stuff. A lot of people do not realize that these cams are infact different, glad that we have a nice comparo on a decent mild build.
Looking forward to future coparison of the header/exhaust on the BC set.:up:
I do have a couple questions though.
Are you using a K20 or K24 block?
Which cam do you prefer for your type of driving, and what does your car usually see i.e. street, track, etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
signalpuke said:
Nice results, good to see some fresh stuff. A lot of people do not realize that these cams are infact different, glad that we have a nice comparo on a decent mild build.
Looking forward to future coparison of the header/exhaust on the BC set.:up:
I do have a couple questions though.
Are you using a K20 or K24 block?
Which cam do you prefer for your type of driving, and what does your car usually see i.e. street, track, etc.?
Mild build? Here I thought it was essentially fully built. Hehe. Anyway, it's a K20 block with the brian crower stroker kit.

Right now my car usually sees more street than anything, but I'm finally finding time for the "etc" part. canyon runs (not like crazy touge stuff, but more than just "spirited driving"). I would LOVE to hit up road racing and a little auto-x.

You'll have to explain what you mean by what type of cam I prefer. Like, a mild cam, an aggressive cam, one that goes for peak power, one that goes for mid range...

Well, honestly I was more hoping that I would see some mid range gains with these new cams, which I did. And I'm happy about that because the car definitely feels snappier on the freeway in all gears. I'm not too worried about the peak loss, though that was a bit disheartening (only because my goal since I bought this car is to get 300hp all motor and I'm farther away now) BUT I keep reminding myself that I don't have a good exhaust setup just yet. Heh.

Anyway, I'd say for my driving I like cams with a bit more mid range and at least some good pick up in the 4-6k range. Anything above 6k is just gravy anyway. Not looking to lower the vtec engagement to like 3000 like some people do. I'll be happy with a 4500 crossover, if I can get that at some point. If I wanted to be in vtec 24/7, I'd have gone with vtec killer cams.

Sorry, I'm rambling.
 

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No, that is what I was refering to in preference of cam. Not manufacturer, but where power is made. One that suites your type of driving. As you said you daily drive the car, so more midrange is better than more top end power.
EDIT: When I said mild, I was refering to a build that is drivable and will last a while between rebuilds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
signalpuke said:
No, that is what I was refering to in preference of cam. Not manufacturer, but where power is made. One that suites your type of driving. As you said you daily drive the car, so more midrange is better than more top end power.
EDIT: When I said mild, I was refering to a build that is drivable and will last a while between rebuilds.
Ah, gotcha. Hehe. Ya, that was my whole goal from the beginning, to get a build that is easily drivable on crap cali 91 (though I know a couple places to get 100) and make 300.

But yes, midrange is definitely more important (as I'm starting to learn, I'm still fairly new to everything) as I'm learning more about how power is delivered and how much is usable on a more regular basis.
 

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nice im about the same with out the stroker kit tho.. went with .25 over ITR pistons, eagle rods, my builder refuses to let me use BC cams becase hes had a few bad experiances from them.. he didnt really go into detail.. but from what i could tell it wasnt pretty
 

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Kevin949 said:
K10's would for sure put me over the 300 mark, but they're NOT streetable at all. I've thought about KME's and maybe sometime down the line, we'll see. I might do a BCR vs. Hytech soon for more comparison purposes (and to find the right cam for me). Hytech header is ordered and paid for, just waiting for it to be ready for pick up. I'm chomping at the bit about it too! Heh.
Why you didn t use the brian crower stage 3 for your k20a2?
314 intake and 310 exhaust?
 

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verry nice thanks for sharing your results.
 

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what did they tune your A/F to? I'd bet that top end could be taken care of with additional tuning even before you change your header/exhaust

thanks for posting this, I recently installed B.Crower cams for someone and was very impressed with how the car drove :up:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
rsxmachine said:
what did they tune your A/F to? I'd bet that top end could be taken care of with additional tuning even before you change your header/exhaust

thanks for posting this, I recently installed B.Crower cams for someone and was very impressed with how the car drove :up:
Well, while I was watching the computer screen the AF was seeming to be between 12 and 13. I think the final tune was around mid 13's to high 13's. But he also said the AF was reading a little off on the computer than what it was showing on the wideband, so I imagine the AF was the same from my previous tune, which was mid 14's.
 

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the header and exhaust will help out your top end numbers for sure...
 
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