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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off i have a 98 civic with a k20a type-r in it and i have a couple of questions because i want to swap a k24 with a k20 head and turbo it into a EG i recently picked up.

i know hasport makes a mount kit for it but i was wondering if any body else made a mount kit for it. im really not fond of hasports mount kit because i had broken a mount used by them on my EK.

if any mount kits out there that will allow me to use EP3 hubs so i can use EP3 axels because i have broken way to many hasport axles and they are too expensive to keep replacing.

what all will i need to perform the swap?

is it even worth turboing?

thank you to any body that replies
 

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Hello,

The motor is great for turbo charging. I Believe there are some dyno charts floating around here and on honda-tech.

For a parts list go here: http://www.hybrid-racing.com/articles.html

There are a list of articles to the left.

Check out the rest of the site for picks and info about the swap.

If you have any other questions feel free to email me.

Thanks,

William Davidson
www.hybrid-racing.com
1-9859-951-8588
 

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JDM K20 Coupe said:
first off i have a 98 civic with a k20a type-r in it and i have a couple of questions because i want to swap a k24 with a k20 head and turbo it into a EG i recently picked up.

i know hasport makes a mount kit for it but i was wondering if any body else made a mount kit for it. im really not fond of hasports mount kit because i had broken a mount used by them on my EK.

if any mount kits out there that will allow me to use EP3 hubs so i can use EP3 axels because i have broken way to many hasport axles and they are too expensive to keep replacing.

what all will i need to perform the swap?

is it even worth turboing?

thank you to any body that replies
There is another mount kit but it mounts the engine about 2 inches further forward than the Hasport kit. The engine is lower too. As for the axles, if you use the JDM 3rd Gen Integra Type R knuckles you can use the larger outer joint axles. EP hubs won't work because of their configuration.

As for breakage of the axles, the Level 2 axles are a must for K-series swap. We are working hard to come up with an answer to the axle breakage on the level 1 stuff.

I'd be interested in hearing about and seeing your broken mount on your EK. Since we switched to billet, the only EK failure I've ever heard of, is with a steel bracket that was incorrectly installed on an H22 kit.

If you're going to run the K24 as a stock bottom end of any length of time, make sure you use the CRV or TSX block since you will run into problems trying to bolt a K20A2 head to anything else.

brian g
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
brian g said:
JDM K20 Coupe said:
first off i have a 98 civic with a k20a type-r in it and i have a couple of questions because i want to swap a k24 with a k20 head and turbo it into a EG i recently picked up.

i know hasport makes a mount kit for it but i was wondering if any body else made a mount kit for it. im really not fond of hasports mount kit because i had broken a mount used by them on my EK.

if any mount kits out there that will allow me to use EP3 hubs so i can use EP3 axels because i have broken way to many hasport axles and they are too expensive to keep replacing.

what all will i need to perform the swap?

is it even worth turboing?

thank you to any body that replies
There is another mount kit but it mounts the engine about 2 inches further forward than the Hasport kit. The engine is lower too. As for the axles, if you use the JDM 3rd Gen Integra Type R knuckles you can use the larger outer joint axles. EP hubs won't work because of their configuration.

As for breakage of the axles, the Level 2 axles are a must for K-series swap. We are working hard to come up with an answer to the axle breakage on the level 1 stuff.

I'd be interested in hearing about and seeing your broken mount on your EK. Since we switched to billet, the only EK failure I've ever heard of, is with a steel bracket that was incorrectly installed on an H22 kit.

If you're going to run the K24 as a stock bottom end of any length of time, make sure you use the CRV or TSX block since you will run into problems trying to bolt a K20A2 head to anything else.

brian g
when you say i could you us 3rd gen type-r axles will the it be the proper leangth??? wheni broke my motor mount on my EK with the k20 it was the passenger side mount and it wasnt the mount itself but the bracket that held the mount in place. we took the mount off and rewelded it on the outside and the inside of it to try and make it stronger.

i wasnt planning on leaving it a stock bottom end, i want to put new pistons and rods into so i can boost more.

is there any mount kit out there that will not mount the motor closer to the ground. on my EK its already close enough and i dont think i can handle it being closer
 

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JDM K20 Coupe said:
when you say i could you us 3rd gen type-r axles will the it be the proper leangth??? wheni broke my motor mount on my EK with the k20 it was the passenger side mount and it wasnt the mount itself but the bracket that held the mount in place. we took the mount off and rewelded it on the outside and the inside of it to try and make it stronger.

i wasnt planning on leaving it a stock bottom end, i want to put new pistons and rods into so i can boost more.

is there any mount kit out there that will not mount the motor closer to the ground. on my EK its already close enough and i dont think i can handle it being closer
I didn't say axles, I said knuckles. The the JDM Type R knuckle has a larger diameter hole in the hub or spindle. With the larger spindle you can use a beefier axle. As for axels length, you could use a Integra DC2 Type R axle with the K-series inner joint this way and it would be the correct length. The DC5 would be a little long.

I'm still interested in the bracket that broke, and where it broke. If you have pictures, could you send them to me? I wuld like to see what happened to determine what is wrong. Although you're the first one who has experienced this, I need to talk to the company welding the brackets.

On the ground clearance question, the EG kit we make has a lot more ground clearance than the EK. Because of the configuration of the EK rear crossmember, we were not able to bring the engine as far back as we do with the EG. The hood is higher as you move back and the engine interferes less with the support structure under the hood, so we were able to get more ground clearance. In fact, we have a new EK kit that will be released in December that moves the engine back by using the EG rear crossmember and lower control arms.

brian g
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
brian g said:
JDM K20 Coupe said:
when you say i could you us 3rd gen type-r axles will the it be the proper leangth??? wheni broke my motor mount on my EK with the k20 it was the passenger side mount and it wasnt the mount itself but the bracket that held the mount in place. we took the mount off and rewelded it on the outside and the inside of it to try and make it stronger.

i wasnt planning on leaving it a stock bottom end, i want to put new pistons and rods into so i can boost more.

is there any mount kit out there that will not mount the motor closer to the ground. on my EK its already close enough and i dont think i can handle it being closer
I didn't say axles, I said knuckles. The the JDM Type R knuckle has a larger diameter hole in the hub or spindle. With the larger spindle you can use a beefier axle. As for axels length, you could use a Integra DC2 Type R axle with the K-series inner joint this way and it would be the correct length. The DC5 would be a little long.

I'm still interested in the bracket that broke, and where it broke. If you have pictures, could you send them to me? I wuld like to see what happened to determine what is wrong. Although you're the first one who has experienced this, I need to talk to the company welding the brackets.

On the ground clearance question, the EG kit we make has a lot more ground clearance than the EK. Because of the configuration of the EK rear crossmember, we were not able to bring the engine as far back as we do with the EG. The hood is higher as you move back and the engine interferes less with the support structure under the hood, so we were able to get more ground clearance. In fact, we have a new EK kit that will be released in December that moves the engine back by using the EG rear crossmember and lower control arms.

brian g
sorry i dont have pics of the bracket when it broke i mite be able to take pics of the rewelded bracket if you want.

thanks for all the info brian g
 
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