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Discussion Starter #1
So I purchased a second k24 block to practice on while I wait for my motor to get back from ERL. Now I want to build the bottom end myself with the stock parts I have left over from my other motor. How the hell do I figure out the rod bearings I know how to do the thrust and mains just fine. I have put a few B series blocks together myself as well so I get the gist of it but the the different halves scare the shit out of me. I have read the helms manual and find it pretty simple to do. I like to hear how you guys went about measuring to find your bearings clearances and bearings you used to start the trial and error process. Also what tools did you use for measuring whether plasti-guages alone or a micrometer and bore gauge or both. Also since this is a spare block I got dirt cheap I don't care if it blows and would rather learn how to tackle this small obstacle than have a crappy shop do it for me. All suggestion are welcome except for having an engine builder do it for me :p
 

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if its the stock rods then u write down the # on each crank and letters off the crank and use those together to buy whichever color bearings u need...use a plastigauge to check the clearances...if u wanna do the calculation urself, measure the ID of the rods and OD of the crank and find a chart that has the thickness of each bearing and figure out which one u need..i believe there is a chart floating around here somewhere

oem honda bearings isnt exactly cheap so good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
if its the stock rods then u write down the # on each crank and letters off the crank and use those together to buy whichever color bearings u need...use a plastigauge to check the clearances...if u wanna do the calculation urself, measure the ID of the rods and OD of the crank and find a chart that has the thickness of each bearing and figure out which one u need..i believe there is a chart floating around here somewhere

oem honda bearings isnt exactly cheap so good luck
yeah ive seen the chart before but i have also read that it is and is not for k series. I think i'll be making my own measurements just to verify. And definitely the oem bearings.

Use a number punch to keep the rod sets marked, no having to think about which goes to what cylinder http://www.amazon.com/Number-Die-St...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229835597&sr=1-2
nice lil tool sure gets rid of the guess work of what goes where. May just invest in one.
 

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If you want to go instruments, you will need a bore gage that reads to .0001 and small enough head and anvils for inside a rod with bearings in it.
You also need a 1-2" micrometer with .0001 resolution. Of course, you could go with metric instruments.

Also, do yourself a favor and order the original wax gauge material. It's called Plastigaguge. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

Plastigage is the green stuff you get at most auto parts places, but Plastigauge (different spelling) in the size we Honda builders need is red and far more consistent in my testing.

The company sent me some comp for a project I was doing and I spent a couple hours testing it against green Plastigage. The same main bearing checked several times at the same torque with the green stuff gave me readings that differed up to .0003 one way or the other, while the red Plastigauge always was right in there at no more than .0001 one way or the other. It claims to be the original and most accurate, and it seems to prove out. End of commercial.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you want to go instruments, you will need a bore gage that reads to .0001 and small enough head and anvils for inside a rod with bearings in it.
You also need a 1-2" micrometer with .0001 resolution. Of course, you could go with metric instruments.
I have a dial bore gauge that is .001 will this be fine ? I have to go buy the micrometer for 1"-2" and 3"-4" <--for when I do the mains later on.

Also, do yourself a favor and order the original wax gauge material. It's called Plastigaguge. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

Plastigage is the green stuff you get at most auto parts places, but Plastigauge (different spelling) in the size we Honda builders need is red and far more consistent in my testing.

The company sent me some comp for a project I was doing and I spent a couple hours testing it against green Plastigage. The same main bearing checked several times at the same torque with the green stuff gave me readings that differed up to .0003 one way or the other, while the red Plastigauge always was right in there at no more than .0001 one way or the other. It claims to be the original and most accurate, and it seems to prove out. End of commercial.
very interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now if i wanted to use ACL bearings how would i go about putting them on. Are they as simple as in the b-series ? or is there some modifying of the crank required?
 

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No difference using acl bearings, just be sure they provide the clearances you want. They are not stepped in small under and oversizes like oem bearings. Also, you will need a 2-3" mircorometer for journals.
.001 is not good enough for Honda work.
 
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