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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The setup

k24a block
89mm sleeves INLINEPRO
IPS 8620 K2 mark2 cams
IPS JE 12.5:1 compression pistons
IB SPEC RODS k24a I beam
SSR HEADER FOR K20a2 motors 4-2-1
STOCK RBC with karcepts ADAPTER
STOCK THROTTLE BODY
Karcepts Intake
STOCK 99mm crank
STOCK 2006 Civic Si head
SUPERTECH spings, titanium retainers, keepers with SUPERTECH FLAT FACE VALVES

So here we go


Here's the k24a longblock


We continue by taking out everything from the accord head, rockers, cams, cam gear so that we can get access to the head bolts


We also need to remove the crank pulley using a moroso crank pulley holder or something similar



To remove the head we also have to remove the chain cover by taking out all the small bolts that hold the chain cover together


Don't forget the 3 bolts that connect the oil pan with the chain cover


Once all bolts are removed, you remove the chain cover by forcing it to get unstuck from the block


here;s some of the chain cover bolts, notice the 2 longer bolts



Here's the k24a4 Accord motor without the head




Once we have the block apart from the head, we need to take out the oil pan, again by removing all the bolts that hold the oil pan and getting it unstuck from the block



An engine stand is good and recommended but I was in a hurry to send the block to get sleeved to inlinepro

Next, we take the bolts out the hold the k24 accord oil pump


Here's the block without the oil pump



No you see how the rod bolts are sticking out on cylinder 1 and 4? I am go ahead and remove all the rod bolts with the crank girdle and crank still attached on the block.. This way I save time and during shipping the crank cannot get damaged in the box apart from the block

Just have to be careful not to hurt the cylinder walls when removing the rods with the pistons attached..




Block is ready to get sleeved or otherwise go the machine shop for a simple hone


So after 1 month, I drove to inlinepro to pick it up along with a new 2006 Civic Si head with supertech valvetrain and retainers and flat faced valves.


































So time to get this running...


We use a soft surface or an engine stand to work on the sleeved block



This hole passed oil to the k24a accord oil pump.. We need to shut it or else we are going to be missing out on a lot of oil pressure


Put some liquid high heat gasket or honda bond






We find a bolt that can be threaded and put it once.. Don;t try to thread it in and then take it out again.. Just find one that fits and go for it



Make sure the bolt you are going to use can make it out of the windage tray



Install the rest of the bolts to hold the tray



Time to install the type s pump and secure it


Ok, time to get the chains going... so...

we attach the first chain guide



slide in the chain gear that goes on the crank along with the 2 chain tensioners.. Notice on this pic there is only one so I had to order the other one...



Once the oil pump chain is installed, it is time to install the flywheel and clutch so that we can attach the tranny

Here's where we will attach the flywheel and install the ring... Notice the ring.. it has to be pushed inside



be sure to use the correct manual tranny flywheel botls that are longer than the auto bolts..



You have to prevent the flywheel from turning.. You can use something in the holes of the flywheel or you can put a wrench on the other side on the crank pulley bolt to prevent it from turning..

here's the clutch CLUTCHMASTERS STAGE 3





have to make sure it is aligned with the hole in the crank. There is a clutch alignment tool that comes with the hit or you can use anything that can git in that hole while you are attaching the clutch on the flywheel



Installt the new bearing that comes with the clutch kit as well



make sure the dowel pins are installed on the block before you attempt to attach the tranny







Here';s the tranny ready to go in



It will need some pushing but eventually it will go in



Secure it with the tranny bolts


Time for the gasket and more dowel pins





locate the head



and put it on...



Torque the head bolts according to the helms manual

install rocker assembly



dont forget the lost motion springs



Lube the head to accept the cams



Lock the tensioner



install it locked




assembly lube on the cams as well



Securing the cams with the cam caps to spec OEM tq spec




Time to set the chain



at the lower part, we need to make sure it is right on time



look closer for the arrow pointing at the dot (dot has small amount of paint on top of it)



block was missing this bolt, so I had to take it out my other block and put it there



back to the chain

secure the chain guide of the head



and the head and the block on the other side



Finally installed the new oil chain tensioner as well



align the chain on the cam gears...

Notice how on the k24 chain, there are 2 grey links in between each of the 2 cam gear dots



Once all dots are lined up with their marks, release the tensioner to keep timing where it is at



Just to make sure everything is ok.. rotate the crank a few times and observe a long rod or long screw driver that you can enter in cylinder 1 to see where the engine is at TDC in reference to the cam gear lines.



Once all is good, chain cover back on with plenty of honda bond where it has to go according to HELMS manual



Install knock sensor, starter and get ready to attach water pump + housing





Attach CRV side bracket.. Notice one bolt is longer than the other 2








Attach hasport mounts on motor and tranny and make sure everything is torque to spec and place on a small paller with some wheels to drag around




attach and drop





to be continued and edited further with more details for:

-wiring
-grounding
-fueling
-water cooling
-attaching and aligning mounts
-tuning
-troubleshooting

Thanks for reading,

Nikos

PS Post questions or concerns so I can edit or add so that we can have a complete GUIDE FOR DUMMIES
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

That is amazing, subscribed!!!!!!:up: This is an awesome help to anyone building there own motor! including me :)

great numbers fella. keep it up
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

great right up :up:
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

great writeup...was sleeving the block necessary? cause i told told that i dont need to sleeve my k20 block for all motor...i would have a bore of 87.5 or 88....
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

OMG so much pictures to print. Thanks for the post, this is great. :dance:
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

looks good except you need to clean the underside of your hood - might get some of the dirt & gease on the K :p
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

Thanks for that Nikos.

Thats a nice dream for alot of people to have done what you did. Thats alot of time, work, money, effort.

Its alot of fun to document a build and see it through.

Jeff
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

this is what a 300whp k all motor dyno sheet looks like :p

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

Yes, stock sleeves can take up to 88mm but you have to be very careful in tuning because once the temps go up in the cylinders, the stock sleeves are not forgiving. People have had 88mm blocks run good on stock sleeves but I have heard stories from people that killed them after only a few hours of tuning... With stock sleeves, 87.5mm would last longer in my opinion and it would be fine. 89mm or 90mm you do need sleeves because the oem cylinders do not have enough material

great writeup...was sleeving the block necessary? cause i told told that i dont need to sleeve my k20 block for all motor...i would have a bore of 87.5 or 88....
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

good post nikos!! where did u find that torque wrench??? ;p
 

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Re: Complete 300whp k24a / k20a2 guide

This is one of the best threads I've seen here in awhile. This will really help when I try to tackle build in the near future. Thank you nikos.
 
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