Checking out a used engine
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Joined
·
28,004 Posts
On the back of the block under the halfshaft....... Make sure the Engine code is K24a2 which is found on the front.
Joined
·
518 Posts
1-make sure the crank turns smooth.
2-check the spark plugs (this will let you know if any series damage in the chamber has occurred)
3-if you can take out all the sparkplugs and place gloves in there and spin the crank with a ratchet the gloves should get sucked in and spit back out. This is an indication the motor has some compression but not what is factory spec.
4-check the oil (check if the oil is any other color other than the usual black or light yellow like greenish or brownish color <--indicating a blown head gasket or cracked head or even a cracked sleeve)
5-check the motor for any oil leaks you wanna fix that before you install it. (easy seen due to the accumulation of dirt and black nastiness)
6- check all the sensors at least the ones you can use for the swap make sure none are broken if they are keep in mind you need to replace it.
7- check for any damage to the block or intake if you are going to be using it. Pay special attention to where the motor mounts go bolted on you don't want a motor with anything there broken.
I think that's all i would check for, some of it maybe useless but it give me a piece of mind, knowing the motor wont get started right away.
2-check the spark plugs (this will let you know if any series damage in the chamber has occurred)
3-if you can take out all the sparkplugs and place gloves in there and spin the crank with a ratchet the gloves should get sucked in and spit back out. This is an indication the motor has some compression but not what is factory spec.
4-check the oil (check if the oil is any other color other than the usual black or light yellow like greenish or brownish color <--indicating a blown head gasket or cracked head or even a cracked sleeve)
5-check the motor for any oil leaks you wanna fix that before you install it. (easy seen due to the accumulation of dirt and black nastiness)
6- check all the sensors at least the ones you can use for the swap make sure none are broken if they are keep in mind you need to replace it.
7- check for any damage to the block or intake if you are going to be using it. Pay special attention to where the motor mounts go bolted on you don't want a motor with anything there broken.
I think that's all i would check for, some of it maybe useless but it give me a piece of mind, knowing the motor wont get started right away.
Joined
·
224 Posts
The owner says it has that. My cocerners are the vin number tag ( where is is ) and he wants 1500.00 for engine and trans ( auto ) or 1300.00 without trans. Sounds to good to be true so I wanted to be carfull. Is the Trans worth the extra 200.00? I want a manual
Joined
·
8,471 Posts
I wouldnt think so. Snag it without. I suppose you could make some big money off it to someone in need but good luck finding that person.
Joined
·
28,004 Posts
Joined
·
474 Posts
Insist on a bill of sale with sellers complete details, preferably notarized.
Joined
·
1,614 Posts
Seems to good to be true.
Joined
·
224 Posts
Thank you all I bought it turned out to be a 2005 I got the registation from the car it came out of, owners name and address, signed bill of sale but no notary. Did not think of that. Now where do I look for manual tran convertion?
Joined
·
224 Posts
I am building a rear engined car. I have no trans just the motor out of a 2005 Acura TSX Need a list of parts. clutch,flywheel,Trans,axle extention what ever it takes. Oil pan,sensors? I have no Idea where to look. Thats why I joined this forum. So fare way more fun than a SBC.........Jim
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
