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· RVWerks
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610 Posts
Hi

is the roof a complete replacement? or just an overlay? If it is a complete replacement; are the oem stringer reinforcements removed in your version and for instance the rear hatch hinges attach on this section, how is it built in one of your roofs if it is exchanged completely for say a carbon one? how are the hatch mounting points built? or do you retain the oem stringer reinforcements with your roof?
 

· RVWerks
Joined
·
610 Posts
I only have the instructions for the CAP on hand, but as I said I will try to get the race cap ones. I imagine you would just cut a large hole in the roof, removing most of the metal, and leave like 3" of roof all the way around, and that would keep everything square, and also give a good mounting surface for the cap, at least thats what I plan on doing on mine.

If you mount it the way you describe, the cap will be a mere show item..A correct replacement roof will need no stringers and will require a dry carbon autoclaved unit reinforced where the rear hinges attach and extended to the oem rain gutter location. You need to remove the complete oem unit, drill it out at the spotwelds and glue in a replacement carbon roof...

I'll gladly put up pics of my autoclaved dry carbon complete replacement roof once it's done.. I'm completely replacing the roof for a race vehicle so also not using the roof liner..

not trying to dis anybody here, just sharing my opinion on the difference between a true replacement roof or a mere skin.....If you're using a oem roof liner and doing it for exterior show, no worries here, but if you're looking for a functional racing roof replacement, there's more to it then cutting out a center piece and epoxying on a skin....

just my 2 cents and hence my question on the roof attachment points..
 
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