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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Started stripping the back of the car to prep for engine removal

EMS out



trunk panels out, exhaust out





That was a few days ago - it's been way to hot to work in my driveway, so I've been taking care of the yard work/landscaping that needed attention.

Today I started putting the replacement block together. Hone, new rings, new rod bearings. $525 for the machine work/rings/ ring gapping/bearing clearance checks, etc.

Block on the stand



removed the galley plug for the RSX oil pump block off



nice clean crank



Pistons assembled on rods, ready to go in block. He marked each per cylinder he fitted them for to make my life easier



pistons & rods installed (drop of oil on rings to help install), assembly lube on bearings & crank in, lube on rod cap bearings, caps torqued (2 stages, 25ft/lb then 120º)





hondabond for carrier plate, 10 mains bolts oiled & torqued in sequence; two stages (22ft/lb, then 56º). 14 M8 bolts torqued in sequence to 16 ft/lbs (or wast it 11ft/lbs, I've forgotten already)



Hopefully I'll get the drivetrain out the car tomorrow
 

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The tensioner you mention is just better quality than OEM?
Sorry for getting back so late. Yes it better than oem. It is a oem tensioner rebuilt inside to provide more tension/pressure.
 

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Can I make a suggestion...

Install exhaust manifold studs in the cylinder head instead of having just two. This will prevent the inner threads from stripping and allow you to remove the header as many times as you want. In my opinion, it will create a better seal on the header flange overtime.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Everything went fine with the engine assembly?
I only have the short block assembled - I need to strip the old motor for the oil pump, etc., before I can assemble the long block. I'll post pics of what happened inside the motor when I do that. I need to have the Z3 head checked for bent valves, etc. I'm hoping the valve seats / guides aren't also damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Can I make a suggestion...

Install exhaust manifold studs in the cylinder head instead of having just two. This will prevent the inner threads from stripping and allow you to remove the header as many times as you want. In my opinion, it will create a better seal on the header flange overtime.
(note: stud 90026-PNA-003. nut 90212-SA5-003)

The problem is, I have very little room to maneuver the header into place. I think I tried more studs when I modded the PLM header & couldn't finagle it into place with more studs than those two. I'll try again - all stud header mounting is more what I'm used to with Volvo heads
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Wondering what brand/type of manifold gasket to use now. I got this one from PLM with the header - definitely looks like it was either leaking or getting ready to

Header side, #3

Bicycle part Rim Auto part Font Electric blue


Head side
Vision care Sunglasses Goggles Bicycle part Tool
 

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(note: stud 90026-PNA-003. nut 90212-SA5-003)

The problem is, I have very little room to maneuver the header into place. I think I tried more studs when I modded the PLM header & couldn't finagle it into place with more studs than those two. I'll try again - all stud header mounting is more what I'm used to with Volvo heads
that makes sense, I completely understand what you are saying.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Wondering what brand/type of manifold gasket to use now
I use the stock one with good success. The corrugation of the OEM gasket is needed introduce a seal pressure, a semi perforated plane sheet has more seal area and therefore less sealing pressure. That helps to led find the exhaust gas a way out. That corrugation mechanic is important, after 9 year engine series development and many different design test approaches, we found always back to that on those 80,000 h running 4,5 bar boosted and continuous WOT running engines.
 

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I am using the oem header gasket. Every gasket with the porous nature I have had leaks. the heat and cool down periods and the nature of destruction tends to find a way to leak through the porous surface.
 

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I am using the oem header gasket. Every gasket with the porous nature
Does the OEM look like the one of the picture above? Mine is metal flat, no perforation, just corrugations.
 

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Does the OEM look like the one of the picture above? Mine is metal flat, no perforation, just corrugations.
oem gasket is flat thin metal with corrugations around the exhaust port exits. A one time only gasket after the corrugations have been flattened.

I have had three headers that came with those porous type gaskets and they all have leaked.
 

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oem gasket is flat thin metal with corrugations around the exhaust port exits. A one time only gasket after the corrugations have been flattened.

I have had three headers that came with those porous type gaskets and they all have leaked.
I've had a lot of success reusing embossed multi layer steel gaskets on exhaust systems. They seem to have enough spring to the steel to maintain the bulk of the embossed rib shape between uses.
 

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oem gasket is flat thin metal with corrugations around the exhaust port exits. A one time only gasket after the corrugations have been flattened.
Thanks for the information, which matches the one I had in mind. I've used one maybe too often, but worked out fine (= proper sealed). But you are correct, is a one-time-only gasket per design.
 

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I've had a lot of success reusing embossed multi layer steel gaskets on exhaust systems. They seem to have enough spring to the steel to maintain the bulk of the embossed rib shape between uses.
Glad you had good results which goes to show I may have had other factors at play causing problems. Like the fact one of them was a cheap header that may have had a uneven flange. I was able to reuse on of them but where the gasket got thin it leaked. The other factor may have been not all aftermarket embossed multi layer steel gaskets are created equal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks for the information, which matches the one I had in mind. I've used one maybe too often, but worked out fine (= proper sealed). But you are correct, is a one-time-only gasket per design.
I have a couple of factory style gasket - like this:

Automotive exterior Automotive tire Font Auto part Rim


I would never have thought to reuse them on the exhaust or intake, but that is mainly because of how labor intensive the job is for me
 

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I would never have thought to reuse them on the exhaust or intake, but that is mainly because of how labor intensive the job is for me
Maybe I should have add, I use my car just for engine testing and tuning. So to say a technology carrier. The reuse shows a proper sealing function, after we made a repair or any part change. I see the risk as low for the actual application. For your case it would be different, you run more miles on it. Just a different risk assessment result I believe :).
 

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Has anyone used titanium exhaust studs & nuts...
Never used it, just OEM studs. They built a very hard oxid layer, preventing further corrosion. Maybe that could help to dismantle them again as you may need it for your chassis clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Never used it, just OEM studs. They built a very hard oxid layer, preventing further corrosion. Maybe that could help to dismantle them again as you may need it for your chassis clearance?
I doubt it, they are actually longer than stock due to the tip having an Allen insert. I think I'll just stick with the stock setup.
 
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