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Thanks

I'll help where I can. When you do swap, buy a new conversion harness. And make sure you got a solid virgin 02-04 Type S engine harness ready to go. It helps prevent possible headaches. Although you may need to adjust sensor plugs on the engine harness but that will depend on the motor and it's sensors.
I am thinking about balling out on some wire worx goodies including the charging harness. Hoping to get the ball rolling in Feb. Might be buying the K24a2 sooner if I can find a good deal Locally. Im in the north east bay, any leads on where to buy one? Hehe.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hi CAFROG, just found this today...
Here's my hatch...'09...'10...'11...I've owned it since 1996...K20A longblock, trans, ECU, shift cables/box, OEM Type-S axles, USDM O2 sensors...ASP group buy budget header...3" exhaust...K-Tuned FPR, Ram Air Intake, Pass Side Radiator/Hoses...but finally pushed it in second gear and let VTEC hit...whoa she rips :dance:
...very nice story, enjoyed to read it :up:

...Climbed to 227 (top run on file), then it fell down.
Wow...227 whp/165 wlbft are pretty nice numbers for a stock longblock :up:.

Yeah, tuning VTEC switch point could be a patience sink :D. If you don't like the torque jump, more VTC rotation can be shifted into high speed cam. The lower torque there with more retarted VTC could be used to smooth out the VTEC switch over section, can be adjusted just by the amount of VTC rotated in low speed and the residual in the high speed cam...just by balancing the low and high speed VTC proportion.

The more VTC is done in low speed, the harder the jump will be, but also the more easier is tuning of fuel due to less transition. Oil pressure need to be observed at the transition point, just as a note.

Markus
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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The hatch is in my dad's garage. And my life is pretty full lately. Last time I went to work on it, I forgot two nuts at home but still got some work done. But (mostly) I ended up working with my dad on his '53 Chevy Truck...
Is the EH3 still untouched in the garage, CARFROG? Is there a possibilty to see the '53 Chevy Truck? I really interested in to see what you are working on.

Markus
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I'll get some pictures of my dad's truck. I need to get working on my hatch. I will have time in about a month.
Great! I am looking forward to see those pictures :D.

I don't know the weather condtions of North-California, but here in my homeland we have (or had before the climate got even warmer in winter) 6 month of snow and salt, which is most hard corrosion potential to iron alloys most old chassis have. Even for those cars of my childhood back in the 80'ies like the 5 cylinder engine wearing '86 Audi 80 GT Coupe (quattro)

or the hill climb car per se '77 Opel Kadett C GT/E

a brilliant chassis for auto X and hill climbing...those chassis came out of a time where car manufactorers did design individual cars...not to say legends :D. But cars from the 50'ies are rare like diamonds in the dessert...

...maybe you have at your place better wetter conditions?
 

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Discussion Starter #206 (Edited)
Last two weeks have been sunny 80-90°F some days and 66-75°F with rain on others. This morning....very nice out.

My dad's truck is a "Street Rod" which is a classic genre here in the states. He's been building them since I was a kid. They usually consist of a mild build small block Chevy, newer front clips (Mustang II front end usually), built rear ends, minimalist interiors, clean paint, lowered, shiny rims, AC, electric gauges, etc. They always sound so sweet when they idle. He does everything except paint and interior.

The truck is his 4th he's done. He takes his time and fades focus to other duties....like father like son.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Last two weeks have been sunny 80-90°F some days and 66-75°F with rain on others. This morning....very nice out.
Pretty hot climate compared to my place, but according wikipedia it is dry in summer and it varies significantly depending on location. Here in summer season we also have from 65-90 °F, depending on rain or sun, but it is not a dry heat, e.g. actually it is 21 °C, clock shows 9 pm, sunset already finished and it is about 45 % of moisture...in e.g. Fresno it is actually 12 pm midday, also 21 °C but only 30 % of moisture. Once I will drive down the No. 1 highway from north to south, I am pretty curious about the land of California...seems to be every non-Japan Honda is there :D.

My dad's truck is a "Street Rod" which is a classic genre here in the states.
I mean I saw something like that in "Roadkill", which I sometimes look via YT...cracy guys, but as I always was impressed by those e.g. Chrysler B-series engine with 440 cu...I love that metallic, deep and noisy bobobobob 1-8-4-3-6-3-5-7-2 firing order sound :D

He's been building them since I was a kid...He does everything except paint and interior....The truck is his 4th he's done. He takes his time and fades focus to other duties....like father like son.
Having a common hobby with the father could be something of real value :).

They usually consist of a mild build small block Chevy...They always sound so sweet when they idle...
I mean Chevy uses the same firing order as Chrysler use for his +300 cu engines. Don't they? Should be the same like the Chevy 150 of Drive Angry in the last scene, when John Milton (Nicolas Cage) take his last ride back to hell with that Accountant man with that head nod tick...aaahhh very nice sound :D.

Markus
 

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I was inspired by your build to finally start my own... I commented a few years back on your thread haha! I have a white 93 si and going with a K20A... but I don't know jack... I pulled the trigger and am waiting for my motor from Steve at HMO. Do you think I should get a traction bar up front? Its just a weekend fun car...Stoked to see you posting! I would go as low as you feel comfortable going... i wish we had a race track out here on the island that would be epic! have fun with that!
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Coilovers are AMR front 650lb and rear 750lb. Stock Si front sway and AMR rear sway. Front and rear camber kits. All new Hardrace bushings. Function 7 bling in rear. 15x8 rims with 225/45/R15 Nittos. All this stuff is 1/2 pages back.

I think I'm happy with the front height. I'll know more today.....when I put it on my tilt bed trailer. I want to be able to drive on/off without removing the bumper. I was able to do it with my old set up (well settled Neuspeed 2.25" Race springs) with a few 2"x6" pieces of scrap before the trailer.

I'm thinking of dropping the rear 1/4-1/2" more.

Current front height seems like it wont need fenders rolled.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
I was inspired by your build to finally start my own... I commented a few years back on your thread haha! I have a white 93 si and going with a K20A... but I don't know jack... I pulled the trigger and am waiting for my motor from Steve at HMO. Do you think I should get a traction bar up front? Its just a weekend fun car...Stoked to see you posting! I would go as low as you feel comfortable going... i wish we had a race track out here on the island that would be epic! have fun with that!
Yes....traction bar and quality spring/shock combo is important to getting power to the ground. Old shocks and no traction bar will have your front end chattering bad when launching. Lose a tooth filling and a race at the same time!

I like K-Tuned for traction bars. Mine is stout.

HMO is good stuff! What was shipping costs??
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Depends on the spring rate and damping for driveability, from an aerodynamic perspective the wedge shape isn't a failure :). Which diffuser and which diffuser angel you are aiming for?

Markus
Right now, my aim is to get this current set up on the track. My thoughts and knowledge of diffusers is minimal. I've seen a few front diffusers I'd like to run but the cost for such simple cheap material is frustrating. Add the thought of getting on/off trailer.......irritating. taking bumper off every time....irritating.
 

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Yes....traction bar and quality spring/shock combo is important to getting power to the ground. Old shocks and no traction bar will have your front end chattering bad when launching. Lose a tooth filling and a race at the same time!

I like K-Tuned for traction bars. Mine is stout.

HMO is good stuff! What was shipping costs??
Thanks! Haha! I'll get one... Good stuff 4 sure! Shipping to Oahu for the K20a is $350... Any advice & suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #216 (Edited)
Thanks! Haha! I'll get one... Good stuff 4 sure! Shipping to Oahu for the K20a is $350... Any advice & suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Advise? Hmmm....

New clutch, resurface flywheel. Do this before motor goes in car.

I ran cheap oil in it for a few days....just to give it a flush. Then pricey oil after.

Must run 91-93 octane or better.

Engine harness will be JDM, which means it's RHD, which means it's gonna be short in a LHD chassis. I made mine work but ECU couldn't be placed in its correct spot. I had to use some plumber's tape and Jerry Rig ingenuity to mount the ECU. A LHD RSX Type S engine harness would've made things much easier. I do not run AC or heater so it may be tougher with those under the dash and a different engine harness will be needed.

Some Type R ECU's need a immobilizer bypass (like mine) but Kpro solves all those issues no matter what. I got Kpro now. I can tell you about your situation once you know the numbers on the ECU.

 

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Discussion Starter #217
Oil pan clearance and local norcal roads play a huge part in my ride height. Its not a dedicated track car but it can only get lower from here.
I got over 3-1/4" clearance right now. I use to have 2-13/16" clearance :bunny:
 

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Advise? Hmmm....

New clutch, resurface flywheel. Do this before motor goes in car.

I ran cheap oil in it for a few days....just to give it a flush. Then pricey oil after.

Must run 91-93 octane or better.

Engine harness will be JDM, which means it's RHD, which means it's gonna be short in a LHD chassis. I made mine work but ECU couldn't be placed in its correct spot. I had to use some plumber's tape and Jerry Rig ingenuity to mount the ECU. A LHD RSX Type S engine harness would've made things much easier. I do not run AC or heater so it may be tougher with those under the dash and a different engine harness will be needed.

Some Type R ECU's need a immobilizer bypass (like mine) but Kpro solves all those issues no matter what. I got Kpro now. I can tell you about your situation once you know the numbers on the ECU.

Oh Thanks! What clutch did you go with? What do you recommend? Is the LHD RSX Type S harness identical only just longer? Any other modifications? Do you think I could just make a bracket and floor mount the ECU with the original harness? I have my ECU being sent to Hybrid for K-Pro.. I appreciate you help with this!
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Oh Thanks! What clutch did you go with? What do you recommend? Is the LHD RSX Type S harness identical only just longer? Any other modifications? Do you think I could just make a bracket and floor mount the ECU with the original harness? I have my ECU being sent to Hybrid for K-Pro.. I appreciate you help with this!
Yes, same harness just longer. The JDM harness barely makes it into the cabin of a LHD....less than 1ft inside cabin. So no way it'll make it to the floor. You can try it out and see yourself. But I'd go with a 02-04 RSX Type S if you want heat. I wouldn't mess with ANY other harness.

Clutches? Running slicks or want the option to do so? If not, basic Excedy. But I have a CC stg4. Good for slicks. Some guys don't like them but I have no issues....but mine hasn't been a daily driver for almost 6 years lol. If I stick to road course racing, I'll run something that's different....once this one is toast.
 

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Yes, same harness just longer. The JDM harness barely makes it into the cabin of a LHD....less than 1ft inside cabin. So no way it'll make it to the floor. You can try it out and see yourself. But I'd go with a 02-04 RSX Type S if you want heat. I wouldn't mess with ANY other harness.

Clutches? Running slicks or want the option to do so? If not, basic Excedy. But I have a CC stg4. Good for slicks. Some guys don't like them but I have no issues....but mine hasn't been a daily driver for almost 6 years lol. If I stick to road course racing, I'll run something that's different....once this one is toast.
David at Hybrid recommended the CC stage 4 and Steve at HMO likes the Exedy stage 2. I found a new 02-24 RSX Type S harness one online for $435 shipped... I'll ask my friend at Honda how much he can get me the harness on Monday... I could go with a cheaper used one but run the risk of it being damaged. Id rather pay for peace of mind... Ugh!!! another unexpected expense... I don't need heat but do I need heat to run the A/C? Did you mean A/C? it's HOT here!I guess I should probably get started on my build thread... Haha.. Thanks for the help!
 
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