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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:wow: so ive begun my K24/K20 frank, ive never played with nitrous before, and I need some suggestions. (I drive a 2005 Civic Si "EP3")

What I planed:
*Built K24a4 bored to 88mm
*CP 88mm 11.5:1cr Pistons
*BC Maxi-Lite k24 rods
*K24a2 Crank micro polished and balanced
*K20a2 oil pump
*K20a2 oil pan
*K20z3/k20a2 head
*Cams of some sort
*ARP's all over the place
*RBC Manifold
*Return Fuel System
*Dual Stage Direct port system 75 for the 1st stage 150 for the 2nd stage


What I need to work around:
*The car is my daily driver
*It needs to be reliable


The Questions:
*I was told the pistons needed to be a little loose fitting to compensate for expansion with the spray, how loose/tight is too much?
*Did I chose the right internals? if not suggestions are much appreciated, I hate to spend too much money on the BC rods or CP pistons if there is a better alternative for less money
*I plan to balance the whole bottom end, and would like to keep it as light as possible so I can try to keep some rpm
 

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Your probly going to need some custom pistons with deep enough valve pockets to use those cams with the full VTC...

What kind of header do you plan on using?

The block guard is a waste of money and a better IM wouldn't hurt either...

There are turbo cars making 600whp+ on stock sleeves and 25lbs+ of boost. Stock sleeves should be fine. But if you want to do something to be safe you'd need to have the block sleeved, the block guard won't do anything for you except possibly cause coolant temp issues...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your probly going to need some custom pistons with deep enough valve pockets to use those cams with the full VTC...

What kind of header do you plan on using?

The block guard is a waste of money and a better IM wouldn't hurt either...

There are turbo cars making 600whp+ on stock sleeves and 25lbs+ of boost. Stock sleeves should be fine. But if you want to do something to be safe you'd need to have the block sleeved, the block guard won't do anything for you except possibly cause coolant temp issues...
I'm currently running a megan racing race header (4-2-1), but I plan on SSR once the engine is built.

What is the matter with using an RBC intake manifold?

I was thinking the block guard was going to be a waste and cause cooling issues, so Im just going to scratch that off the list.
 

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The rbc isn't a bad manifold, but with those cams you should have something better... At least a ported RBC and a ported head with a nice header and then you may see the true potential of those cams... Thats cam is a big race type cam that requires a built motor and good head to take advanatge of them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The rbc isn't a bad manifold, but with those cams you should have something better... At least a ported RBC and a ported head with a nice header and then you may see the true potential of those cams... Thats cam is a big race type cam that requires a built motor and good head to take advanatge of them...
Im looking into a few cam choices right now, so I edited to a cam of some sort :eek:

now, I plan to have a mild port job done on the head, just dont know yet. I still do not have a head to have ported so its on the back burner. im more concerned about eh bottom end since I have that right now, just need to decided what rod and piston combo would be best
 

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im doing the same build but i have 87mm weisco 11.5:1 flat tops with go power h beams was told they better cuz of my shot size not i beams im running a looser ring gap do to the spray also the same stage set up im using k20z3 head stock a2 cams for now and r crew header looking into torku cams to play with
 

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on my gsr i had same pistons but 81mm loose ring gap eagle h rods balanced and it took 200 shot easy 75 1st 125 2nd-4th on 2 seperate kits !!! now stepping into the k light lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im doing the same build but i have 87mm weisco 11.5:1 flat tops with go power h beams was told they better cuz of my shot size not i beams im running a looser ring gap do to the spray also the same stage set up im using k20z3 head stock a2 cams for now and r crew header looking into torku cams to play with
can you get me some info on the rods you chose? :up:
 

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im using there h beam rods i paid 300 brand new shipped i was told to use h cuz they are stronger for nitrous since i was going 200 shot i got them really quick 2 days after i ordered them
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
im using there h beam rods i paid 300 brand new shipped i was told to use h cuz they are stronger for nitrous since i was going 200 shot i got them really quick 2 days after i ordered them
I was always told I-beams for n/a or n20 and H-beams for boost, either way there stronger than oem lol
 

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:wow: so ive begun my K24/K20 frank, ive never played with nitrous before, and I need some suggestions. (I drive a 2005 Civic Si "EP3")

What I planed:
*Built K24a4 bored to 88mm
*CP 88mm 11.5:1cr Pistons
*BC Maxi-Lite k24 rods
*K24a2 Crank micro polished and balanced
*K20a2 oil pump
*K20a2 oil pan
*K20z3/k20a2 head
*Cams of some sort
*ARP's all over the place
*RBC Manifold
*Return Fuel System
*Dual Stage Direct port system 75 for the 1st stage 150 for the 2nd stage


What I need to work around:
*The car is my daily driver
*It needs to be reliable


The Questions:
*I was told the pistons needed to be a little loose fitting to compensate for expansion with the spray, how loose/tight is too much?
*Did I chose the right internals? if not suggestions are much appreciated, I hate to spend too much money on the BC rods or CP pistons if there is a better alternative for less money
*I plan to balance the whole bottom end, and would like to keep it as light as possible so I can try to keep some rpm
stock sleeves bored out to 88mm? or is it an sleeved block
for that amount of nitrous!
 

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my k24a2 tsx turbo swap put 365whp on pump with 9:1 comp pistons and i cracked my stock sleeves. luckly i pulled the motor out to put in golden eagle hd sleeves and caught it in time before it did any damage
 
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