[josh green]

What all parts are needed for the bottom end, I just cant remember the stuff off the top of my head. Here is what I have so far. I need...
Froged rods
Forged pistons
rod bearings
main bearings
head studs
block guard
piston rings

Anything else? I am planning to turbo my swap with a fully built bottom end minus the sleeves. Anyone know of any places to buy the parts from? I have some local dealers but they are kinda a hastle. And I know KTELLER is close but they suck, my buddy ordered AEBS headstuds and its been well over a month and he still dosent have them, they listed them as in stock when they didnt have any nor did AEBS have any in the warehouse and had to wait for them from the people who actualy make them for them.

 

[NickZED]

i had a question about sizing rod bearings to aftermarket rods... i know for b-series that some people have recorded the bearing thickness for each color bearing, but how does one go about choosing the right bearing given an aftermarket rod? (only those who are familar with honda's system will know what im talking about)

ive heard of using all red bearings but that doesnt sound to precise to me!

 

[carl]

I have found that the higher end rods (Crower, Manley, Pauter, Carrillo) are the smallest dia. of tolerance which would be an A or 1 . The Eagle rods are a larger bore which is usually a C or 3. The Red bearing is a good choice in either case since the lighter rods will see more out of roundness at high RPM .

 

[NickZED]

i used all green and got a clearance of 0.0015 to 0.0017

do you think its worth switching to red?

 

[carl]

The green to red change (on both halves) would gain an additional .0006" clearance. I prefer .0015 min. on street motors, .0020 on race motors. If your crank rod journal is stamped C or D, green should be fine. If it's an A or B, I would use the Pink or Red (using higher end rods). This is all generally speaking, so it is best if you can mic. everything and know exactly what you have.