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Discussion Starter #41
Wow, engine and chassis marriage already done, man :up:. May I lost this while reading, but what causes the relocation kit demand for the starter?

Great work, beside having kids alone, my respect for your hard working! I am looking forward to see how the engine loves all the stuff.

Markus
The stock location for the starter on the MR2 is on the tranny and the Hux kit uses the 3sgte flywheel. I guess it was easier to just fab a flywheel adapter than using the k20 flywheel and clutch on the MR2 tranny.

I did the swap in 5 weeks, I was in the garage almost everyday for a few hours in the cold to get this done while dividing my time with my daughter. Thanks to my family for helping out when they could. I was exhausted at the end and wished I could have spread the swap over a few months.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Also the tuning shop has explained to me that the oil filter relocation adapter (Blox) is touching the 'Lean' exhaust manifold.
Can anyone recommend a kit that has a smaller adapter?
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Hi guys, well I had the MR2 for a few months on a break in tune (280whp @ 7psi) and had to fix a few bugs. It had 3 different coolant leaks, oil leak from the turbo oil return line and an intercooler clamp popped off while driving. The JB weld on the oil pan is hold just fine ATM. I replaced all the clamps with constant torque clamps and installed meth/water injection. Anyways, the MR2 is now back at the tuning shop getting the final tune done (22-25 psi) and should be ready in another week. I'll post an update when I get it back.



 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...Anyways, the MR2 is now back at the tuning shop getting the final tune done (22-25 psi) and should be ready in another week. I'll post an update when I get it back...
Thanks for the update :up:.

Depending on TC efficiency, it would around 530 [email protected] psi. At which engine speed does the compressor lift MAP over 1 bar absolute pressure at transient operation, e.g. WOT run?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Hi everyone, sorry for the disappearance. Life got very busy for me and I had a lot of family related issues to deal with but the MR2 + k20 swap is on the road breaking hearts. Below is an update and there will be more updates that I will add over the next few days.

Nov. 1, 2017
I finally picked up the MR2 yesterday before the insurance ran out. Here's some of the details: 470whp 390tq at 8200rps on 94 pump gas and a 50/50 mix of meth injection on a heartbreaker dyno. The tuner had to stop there due to the A2W intercooler heat soaking. There is more to get out of this set up but I need to figure out the heat soak issue and little problems that I couldn't foresee. I think a bigger pump would help out with this issue. The turbo (5830) is very responsive and boosts all the way to redline and for longevity the rpms are set at 8200.

There is 2 settings for driving which is low boost (14 psi) and high boost (20 psi). I have only been driving it on low boost while I worked out the bugs. It is very quick on low boost (I still need to test it in the high boost setting) and it's not bad in regular traffic. But I want more power so it will need to be re-tuned to achieve the 25 psi. I have to say that it's very fun to drive on the back roads and it makes me smile.



 

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Discussion Starter #49
February 2018
A bit of an update I replaced the stockish suspension with Fortune Auto generation 6 500 series coilovers. The stock suspension has Tokico strut inserts with stock 93 springs. I was going to go with BC racing but the FA were on sale for a couple hundred dollars more. I had them built last year and finally have the time to install them. They also came with a certificate, which I find is pretty neat, and I ended up buying a set of coilover covers to protect them from seizing up. At the same time I had new Moog sway bar links and poly bushing installed. I lowered the the MR2 by 1cm and see how it rides. More to come...









 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...470whp 390tq at 8200rps on 94 pump gas and a 50/50 mix of meth injection on a heartbreaker dyno...
Very nice update 1badMR2! How much boost do you need to squeeze out the numbers above? Did you connect your water-methanol-injection to injector signal or MAP for reference? Do you have an intercooler or does the water meth the job alone?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Very nice update 1badMR2! How much boost do you need to squeeze out the numbers above? Did you connect your water-methanol-injection to injector signal or MAP for reference? Do you have an intercooler or does the water meth the job alone?
Thanks LotusElise!
20 psi of boost to get the full meal deal @ 65% injector duty, once the heat soak issue is dealt with, we're going for 25 psi. I would like to get around the 550-600 whp range. The water & meth injection is running off MAP. I'm using a frankenstein setup which is Devils Own and AEM controller because the DO can run pure methanol and the pump is solid while the AEM controller V.2 is more reliable than the DO controller.

I have both air to water intercooler and water/meth injection set ups. I knew I was going to deal with some level of heat soak being a mid engine car. Plus I installed a pusher fan on the engine lid to help out. I have been driving the MR2 in the hot weather here in B.C. (25C-30C) and the intercooler is cooler to the touch so I know it's working but it should be colder. I'll post pictures of the set ups
 

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Can you give any more detailed information on wiring the swap? I know you had a shop do the wiring but i am just finding a lack of detailed info on what to do. I would love to pay for a blended harness or a shop but that is not an option right now. Any links? Resources? Homies?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Can you give any more detailed information on wiring the swap? I know you had a shop do the wiring but i am just finding a lack of detailed info on what to do. I would love to pay for a blended harness or a shop but that is not an option right now. Any links? Resources? Homies?
Hey, unfortunately I don't have a lot of info on the wiring part. I do know that he said it was fairly easy to integrate the k20 w/charge harness and the MR2 harness. The MR2 has the engine bay fuse box with some of the wiring going through it.

He did say that the one problem was he could not get the stock MR2 water temp gauge to function with the k20a2 cts. I was in a hurry to drive the MR2 so he set up the check engine light to turn off when the temperature got to operating temperature. I plan to get this fixed this winter.
 

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Bumping this thread to ask if you're still running the heater into the cabin (mines on a loop so no heat but I'd like to know which hoses to get) and then I was curious how much the header was (I'm running a simple log setup) and how you routed the exhaust (I did the 1320 video center exhaust for a while but it was too much so I added a muffler between the trunk mounted intercooler and diffuser).

Nice build BTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Bumping this thread to ask if you're still running the heater into the cabin (mines on a loop so no heat but I'd like to know which hoses to get) and then I was curious how much the header was (I'm running a simple log setup) and how you routed the exhaust (I did the 1320 video center exhaust for a while but it was too much so I added a muffler between the trunk mounted intercooler and diffuser).

Nice build BTW!
Hi and thanks. I've been so busy but I'm still around. I am running heater hoses to the stock hard lines to have heat. I basically went to the auto parts store and bought generic 90 degree and a 180 degree bent hoses and routed it to work. I've had no problems at all.

I purchased the BWR exhaust manifold for $850 on sale during Black Friday a couple of years ago. The only issue I had was the welds on the dump tube failed. I had a downpipe fabricated to attach to the muffler in the stock area.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I also solved the heat soak issue I was having quite a while ago. There was a huge air bubble in the heat exchanger that I was able to bleed by opening the bleed screw that the speed shop never opened. So now the A2W intercooler is always cold to the touch after hard driving. This winter I have to take the head off to fix an oil burning issue I'm having. The valve guides were not replaced when the head was built and there is a little oil in cyl. 2 & 3.

Some pictures since it has been awhile





 

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Any update? I too have an mr2 turbo 91 that I plan on k swapping. My debate is whether to go full kswap or use the Cannibal conversion to run the e153. I have a practically brand new 95 spec e153 laying around that I could use for this swap.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Any update? I too have an mr2 turbo 91 that I plan on k swapping. My debate is whether to go full kswap or use the Cannibal conversion to run the e153. I have a practically brand new 95 spec e153 laying around that I could use for this swap.
I don't know the capability of the Toyota E153 gearbox, but the K20A... gearbox isn't a good deal for a forced inducted K-swap. The gear wheels are even smaller then a VW MQ200, which is rated for 200 Nm continuous operation. Depending on if you go FI, if the engine stays NA, do a full K-swap.
 

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I don't know the capability of the Toyota E153 gearbox, but the K20A... gearbox isn't a good deal for a forced inducted K-swap. The gear wheels are even smaller then a VW MQ200, which is rated for 200 Nm continuous operation. Depending on if you go FI, if the engine stays NA, do a full K-swap.
I will definitely be going turbo. Looking for 500whp on pumpgas and 600whp with meth. Most likely I will keep the Toyota drivetrain as I am setup with the stronger/later version 94+ E153 w/lsd and the rest of the driveline. So it makes sense financially to go with the Hux Cannibal swap kit. I'm looking for any feedback on how the k24+e153 combo performs together. Some say the e153, although beefy, can't take higher revs. I want to know if this is true.
 
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