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Discussion Starter #21
I had to create a hole in the oil pan for the oil return fitting and it was fairly easy until the time came to start tapping the threads. I was nervous the tap would twist and damage the threads but it turned out great.







I also purchased the ktuned p/s delete kit. Going to make a brace to prevent the top alternator bolt from breaking off.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Going to make a brace to prevent the top alternator bolt from breaking off.
:up:

You don't weld a bold nut on to the oil pan for the fitting to drain the oil pan? Just from an engineering perspective:
  • the thread length is too short for the bore size and material-combination (Aluminum-Steel-combination!)
  • Vibrations likely loosen the thread tight and lead to leakage -> lack of oil supply = engine death!
I recommend you to revise the thread length by welding on a bolt nut to keep your nice engine safe.

:twocents:

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter #23
:up:

You don't weld a bold nut on to the oil pan for the fitting to drain the oil pan? Just from an engineering perspective:
  • the thread length is too short for the bore size and material-combination (Aluminum-Steel-combination!)
  • Vibrations likely loosen the thread tight and lead to leakage -> lack of oil supply = engine death!
I recommend you to revise the thread length by welding on a bolt nut to keep your nice engine safe.

:twocents:

Markus
I am using an aluminum 45* fitting and was going to JB weld it in place to prevent it from moving or leaking oil. I'll post better pictures and let me know Markus what you think, I am always open to opinions.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I am going to use the rbc intake manifold that I picked up locally for $200 cdn. The rbc intake has a water passage on the right side that needs to be removed for it to fit on the k20a2 head. I deleted the uncut intake picture by accident so here a generic internet picture.



And what it looks like after cutting it with an angle grinder and using a 60 grit flappy sanding disk to shape and smooth out the cut.









Next was installing the 1000cc injectors into a BWR fuel rail.







My MR2 didn't come with a/c or p/s so the k20 doesn't need it either. I got the Ktuned a/c & p/s delete kit.





After reading a thread on this forums that the ktuned supplied top alternator bolt sheers off in the block, I decided to not use it and get a oem bolt. I like to prevent anything that may cause me to have a bad day so I fabricated an alternator brace to alleviate the stress on the top bolt. I just need to find someone to weld the 2 pieces of the brace together.





What it looks like now. Exhaust manifold is next.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Adding a little bling. I test fitted the "lean" exhaust manifold and one of the runners was very close to the oil filter so I wrap the area with heat wrap and rechecked. Looks good.











The money shot.



The engine harness is next. I'm not going to post any picture of this because I'm just connecting it to the sensors. Bill at Indy will do the rewiring to work in the MR2.

 

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Discussion Starter #27
For the k20a2 throttle body to work with the rbc im, I need to install an adapter. I also did a mini wire tuck to hide the fuel injector harness that you can see in the first picture.







Test fitting the tb and it all good.



I did a trim and shave on the throttle body.

IACV sensor - no way!
Evap sensor - hell no!
Map sensor relocate - that's what I talking about!
IACV delete plate - hooray!



















All torqued and almost ready to start installing the k20 swap kit parts.



Another side project, I had an aftermarket antenna on the MR2 that was plain ugly so I picked up a S2k antenna assembly and modified it to work with the MR2. (removed circuit board, rewired, drilled new opening and a short antenna)



 

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Discussion Starter #28
I didn't like the service I got from Tractuff with the oil pump baffle so decided not to use their products. I instead installed the Clockwise Motion baffle into the oil pan. It just presses in between the fins inside the pan and has 5 trap doors so the oil pump is always submerged with oil. I had to order this from the UK and shipping was cheap and fast, surprisingly.
Then I JB weld the oil return fitting on the back and front side, it is locked in place solid. The oil pan back on and torqued it to specs and now is ready for the next step...









Up and out.



 

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Discussion Starter #29
So I recently sent out my radiator to have it checked over to Richardson Radiators in Langley. The core was good and it has no problems but I wanted to be sure that it would do it's job with high boost and whp levels so after discussing it with them I had a thicker core installed. I recommend them, good service and price was good plus they have a 10% discount coupon on their website that you can use.





Next I put together a vacuum block to run lines from one source.



I also had to make another oil return opening. The first one (blue fitting) would have worked but the MR2 cv shafts are very large and it was blocking the opening so I tapped, plugged and jb weld the plug in place.





New oil return location.



Up next is the Hux k20 swap kit.
 

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May as well keep your eye out for a new sump while you're at it. Safest way to sort it out would be new sump and a weld on AN fitting. I have had JB weld crack on occasion.
 

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Nice, you have an oil heater.


May want to do an oil filter relocation unless you like having melted filters and/or hotter than normal oil.
I strongly agree with this. You have put a FWD engine into an MR chassis. The engine was designed to keep oil temps under control with far more airflow around the engine than the MR2 chassis. As with the lotus, many people have issues with the K20 oil temps in the rear of cars, they just run hot. So its always a good idea to put a remote cooler on it ASAP, and that exhaust will only make already hot oil temps even hotter.
 

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@1basdmr2
I would first like to say solid write up. I am actually going to do the same but I will be using the w30 chassis.

any update on your car? what numbers its making, how you addressed the concerns posted about oil temp?

Finally I want to ask you, are there any differences in the install for the w30 as opposed to you w20.

Thank in advance.

again dope car bro
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Sorry everyone who is following this build. The MR2 is at the tuning shop now and life got very busy, anyways enjoy.

The Hux kit consists of these parts:



Carrier bearing housing installed.



Passenger side engine mount





Lay everything out



Flywheel adapter



Adapter plate



This cover needs to come off



 

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Discussion Starter #36
This solid dowel needs to be removed, I tried but ended up grinding it off.





Lay out all the pieces



Installed





Now the joining



Had to drill through





The MR2 cv shafts are very large so this part of the k20 has to be shaved down





Next is the starter plug





Finally together. Wired in the starter.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
This part of the k20 block was interfering with the clutch cylinder so need to shape it using these on a Demel and drill







You need to get this flywheel inspection cover from Honda ($13)





Ready to be installed









Being positioned



Installed



Passenger side coolant hose



Driver side was more challenging. All the hoses I tired would hit the shifter assembly, it took 2 days to figure out what combination worked.



Adapter to join the flex hose and reuse the Toyota passenger side coolant hose



Installed all the heater hoses and added coolant. There is air trapped in there so it will need to be bleed out.



A side project, new negative battery cable put together



Joe installed poly bushings in the rear control arms and rebuilt the cv shafts with the upgrade kit

 

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Discussion Starter #38
Towed to the local tuning shop to get the downpipe, A2W intercooler parts installed and wiring.



These are from a week ago.



 

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Discussion Starter #39
I strongly agree with this. You have put a FWD engine into an MR chassis. The engine was designed to keep oil temps under control with far more airflow around the engine than the MR2 chassis. As with the lotus, many people have issues with the K20 oil temps in the rear of cars, they just run hot. So its always a good idea to put a remote cooler on it ASAP, and that exhaust will only make already hot oil temps even hotter.
Yes I have a relocation kit that I picked up and if the temps are still high, I will install an 10 row oil cooler kit.

@1basdmr2
I would first like to say solid write up. I am actually going to do the same but I will be using the w30 chassis.

any update on your car? what numbers its making, how you addressed the concerns posted about oil temp?

Finally I want to ask you, are there any differences in the install for the w30 as opposed to you w20.

Thank in advance.

again dope car bro
Thanks for the comment, I would check out this thread about swapping a k20 into the w30 chassis:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102755
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Wow, engine and chassis marriage already done, man :up:. May I lost this while reading, but what causes the relocation kit demand for the starter?

Great work, beside having kids alone, my respect for your hard working! I am looking forward to see how the engine loves all the stuff.

Markus
 
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