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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, hoping i can geta response on here. Basically I've get an 02 type s with a kprov4. A few months ago the alternator was replaced, after which my immobilizer light started flashing at all times while the car was on. It was annoying bu I didn't do anything about it. Now I've had the clutch replaced entirely, and the battery was disconnected for nearly two weeks. The car is all back together but I'm getting a crank no start, and the engine continues to crank even after I pull my key out of the ignition. I tried re uploading tune, made sure immobilizer was disabled, it was, checked fuse 20 under the hood, and even reset my kpro. We are lifting it back up and making sure we didn't miss any grounds or connections. Let me know what you think, or where i can take it.
 

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Hello everyone, hoping i can geta response on here. Basically I've get an 02 type s with a kprov4. A few months ago the alternator was replaced, after which my immobilizer light started flashing at all times while the car was on. It was annoying bu I didn't do anything about it. Now I've had the clutch replaced entirely, and the battery was disconnected for nearly two weeks. The car is all back together but I'm getting a crank no start, and the engine continues to crank even after I pull my key out of the ignition. I tried re uploading tune, made sure immobilizer was disabled, it was, checked fuse 20 under the hood, and even reset my kpro. We are lifting it back up and making sure we didn't miss any grounds or connections. Let me know what you think, or where i can take it.
Ignition switch. Solenoid.
 

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also edit, it continues to crank for maybe 3 to 5 seconds after i remove the key. prior to this job car would start up even cold right away.
Can't speak for the "why" of it all? Was the hood off out in the weather? So forth so on....How does the key feel? Does it kick back from start position? Does ACC. position function properly? Does the car want to start or have you gotten to that point yet. Unless anybody chimes in whose had a similar problem I'm leaning towards the before mentioned. If the solenoid just clicked or didn't I'd go with that. But my gut say's check the action of the switch. They wear out after 100.000.000 turns or so? Let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can't speak for the "why" of it all? Was the hood off out in the weather? So forth so on....How does the key feel? Does it kick back from start position? Does ACC. position function properly? Does the car want to start or have you gotten to that point yet. Unless anybody chimes in whose had a similar problem I'm leaning towards the before mentioned. If the solenoid just clicked or didn't I'd go with that. But my gut say's check the action of the switch. They wear out after 100.000.000 turns or so? Let us know what you find out.
I brought the car to a private mechanic that has done great work for me. he has triple checked grounds and fuses. the only thing he doesn't have experience with is krpo. when i turned the key it didn't sound like it wanted to start, or that it would if i kept trying. I didn't listen for clicks but the started engages the flywheel. It's also probably worth mentioning that I cant feel the clutch engage through the pedal, probably because they haven't done a bleed yet. Replaced spark and nothing. injectors are full of fuel and plugs are getting a pulse. Will probably bring it to a dealership soon and will let you know what I find out. in the mean time any other ideas are welcome, and Ill pass this info along
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I brought the car to a private mechanic that has done great work for me. he has triple checked grounds and fuses. the only thing he doesn't have experience with is krpo. when i turned the key it didn't sound like it wanted to start, or that it would if i kept trying. I didn't listen for clicks but the started engages the flywheel. It's also probably worth mentioning that I cant feel the clutch engage through the pedal, probably because they haven't done a bleed yet. Replaced spark and nothing. injectors are full of fuel and plugs are getting a pulse. Will probably bring it to a dealership soon and will let you know what I find out. in the mean time any other ideas are welcome, and Ill pass this info along
the key feels fine. Easy to insert and remove, easy to turn, cranks consistently and I can hear it has good compression. compression test done recently came back 210 across all 4 cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can't speak for the "why" of it all? Was the hood off out in the weather? So forth so on....How does the key feel? Does it kick back from start position? Does ACC. position function properly? Does the car want to start or have you gotten to that point yet. Unless anybody chimes in whose had a similar problem I'm leaning towards the before mentioned. If the solenoid just clicked or didn't I'd go with that. But my gut say's check the action of the switch. They wear out after 100.000.000 turns or so? Let us know what you find out.
its definitely possible the distributor or starter were already worn out and it sitting in the garage for weeks probably didn't help.
 

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Lotus Elise K20A2
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cranking itself has no connection to the ECU. It cranks even without the ECU plugged in.
so if it continues to crank after returning the key from the crank position or even pull it, you have a key lock or other related electrical issue.
KPro also does not forget its mapping being without power.

You can plug the USB cable in, fire up Kmamanger on a laptop, download the map from the ECU and log the data while cranking. Then post the log file here through a cloud service. We’ll have a look.
Kmanager would also allow you to see all sensor signals, voltage while cranking, MAP, IAT, ECT etc.
 

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OT: I drive a Prius 2 as a daily the last 10 yrs. It is a fantastic car in its own right. Nicely compliments my K20 powered Elise.
My ex g/f has a prius she loved driving my RSX and stated "I never knew what fun to drive meant." I liked her prius because you can get away with anything in it? Nobody suspects anybody of anything in a prius, so I have found.
 

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Lotus Elise K20A2
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it drives well, spacious, is über reliable and proxides me with the cheapest total cost of ownership per mile of any car I ever owned. It is almost ridiculous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cranking itself has no connection to the ECU. It cranks even without the ECU plugged in.
so if it continues to crank after returning the key from the crank position or even pull it, you have a key lock or other related electrical issue.
KPro also does not forget its mapping being without power.

You can plug the USB cable in, fire up Kmamanger on a laptop, download the map from the ECU and log the data while cranking. Then post the log file here through a cloud service. We’ll have a look.
Kmanager would also allow you to see all sensor signals, voltage while cranking, MAP, IAT, ECT etc.
alright everyone, so it looks like we found the problem. I hope this helps someone in the future because this ride has been a nightmare. I will update once the job has been done. Here's the information I've received. The old flywheel was extremely tight. It took a guy in the front of the car with a breaker bar and another guy with a 4 foot bar to break the bolts, and two of them snapped. Apparently, my chain jumped timing. It makes a lot of sense, but it is a nightmare. the tensioner is being replaced next week and should start up, as well as a timing adjustment, I'll update. Thanks for all of your replies.
 
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