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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'd be happy to answer any questions regarding the swap in order to help you out.

From the very beginning I was under the assumption that things would simply be "plug-and-play", that was rarely the case, almost everything required at least a little modification.

Here's a list of parts/modifications that were necessary in doing the swap, at least what I remember:

Intake:
- I used an Injen short ram (CARB certified), I'm not sure if a CAI for a K20A2 would fit.
- The air filter and the brake master cylinder will rub unless you push the intake away from the master cylinder and then tighten the mounting bolt (because of the rubber coupling that goes on the throttle body, it has some flexibility).
- I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose a surging idle, ended up with an Idle Malfunction code. The IACV from the K20A was rusted so much that I couldn't even move the actuator with my hand. I had another actuator from a K20A2 and it had the same idle problem, but I was able to clean it and free it up with WD40, don't use brake cleaner. I guess if the IACV sits for a period of time, the wet carbon dries up and hardens.

Exhaust:
- An exhaust manifold, down pipe, and cat from a TSX (I believe from 04-08?) will bolt on and will clear the power steering rack, but the manifold and down pipe run very close to the rack. So, there's a lot of heat being transferred to the rack, I recommend wrapping the rack with heat resistant material before putting the engine in.
- The exhaust manifold heat shield will need to be notched and bent so that it doesn't touch the rear mount and PS hard lines.
- The downpipe will need to modified (shortened and turned slightly) by an exhaust shop in order to raise the cat up, it sits pretty low, and does not come out straight into the exhaust tunnel.
- The rest of the exhaust will need to be shortened to accommodate the exhaust being on the rear of the engine, unlike on a stock Civic/Integra engine with the exhaust in the front of the engine.

Wiring:
- Since I had all the parts from a wrecked RSX Type S, I wired in the cluster from the RSX, which requires installing the under dash fuse box from the RSX because of the multiplexer unit. At least until I make my own cluster, I have a total of 3 fuse boxes.
- Engine harness was plug-and-play.
- Dash harness needed a lot of modification, a tablet with the service manuals/wiring diagrams of the engine and the chassis really help.
- I mounted the immobilizer to the ignition switch, and swapped the tumbler pins from an RSX key cylinder, so I'm able to use an RSX key to start the car.

EVAP:
- A fuel tank from an 00-01 integra has very similar evap components as the RSX. So, I mounted the entire charcoal canister assembly from the RSX, near the rear of the car, and ran my own evap hoses from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister.
- And of course, wire the sensors on the charcoal canister to the ecu.

Fuel:
- This was a little complicated, but doable. The RSX uses a returnless fuel supply system, basically, instead of running the fuel to the regulator on the engine and then bringing the excess back to the tank, the RSX has the regulator mounted in the fuel pump assembly, so it releases excess pressure directly into the tank. So, I was able to remove the regulator and create my own return system at the tank, just like the RSX return system.
- Starting at the fuel rail, there's two soft lines and then the hard line back to the tank. The hard line on the RSX was 1/4", and the hard line on the Integra was 5/16", so I cut a piece of the RSX hard line so it would fit into the soft line going into the fuel rail, and shortened the hard line on the Integra so it would line up with the RSX hard line, and then used a Swagelok coupling to connect the two hard lines.

Driveshafts:
- I installed the 5 lug suspension from the 98 Integra Type R, so I used the Integra hubs with the RSX driveshafts. The left side RSX driveshaft fit fine, but the right side was too short, so I used an RSX Type R driveshaft on the right side. I'm sure there's more options, but these were the driveshafts I had, so I used them.

Misc:
- An RSX power steering pressure line will fit, but will need some bending, I ended up just cutting a portion out since it was too long for how I wanted to run it, and used a coupling to join the cut pieces.
- I don't have an AC system, so, with a Type R crankshaft pulley, power steering pump, alternator, water pump, and tensioner, I'm using a 52.5" belt. I've only been able to find a 6 rib belt in that size, it's been on for about a month and looks like it's starting to separate, could just be a manufacturer defect.

If I remember anything else, I'll add it.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Congratulations Zuby...looks like a persuasive precedent :D

I'd be happy to answer any questions regarding the swap in order to help you out.
Yes, thanks, there is one, as I am a non-native speaker here. What does bar'd K20A mean?

I know you guys convert substantives into adjectives by adding 'd, like in KPro'd. I know some meanings of the substantive bar: kind of table, kind of a sport tool, kind of pipe to stiffen a chassis...but have no glue what does it mean, getting an enrollment for an engine in a different chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Congratulations Zuby...looks like a persuasive precedent :D


Yes, thanks, there is one, as I am a non-native speaker here. What does bar'd K20A mean?

I know you guys convert substantives into adjectives by adding 'd, like in KPro'd. I know some meanings of the substantive bar: kind of table, kind of a sport tool, kind of pipe to stiffen a chassis...but have no glue what does it mean, getting an enrollment for an engine in a different chassis.
Here in the state of California there's a government organization called Bureau of Automotive Repair. They're in charge of certifying engine swaps and modifications, once they approve your modification then you've been BAR'd! So, yes, BAR'd is just a made up word/phrase.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
Joined
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9,465 Posts
Here in the state of California there's a government organization called Bureau of Automotive Repair. They're in charge of certifying engine swaps and modifications, once they approve your modification then you've been BAR'd! So, yes, BAR'd is just a made up word/phrase.
Aahh, it's an acronym, therefore you wrote it in big letters. Maybe something like our TÜV (could be translated like technical oberservation union). Many thanks for your detailed clarification :up:
 
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