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Discussion Starter #41
Gotcha that piece of pipe in the box looked like 4”. I’ve been looking around online for little sections of 3.5 and filter / v stack combos to make my own short ram and cold air when the time comes. But it sounds like what you’re making is going to be way cooler lol.
Check Amazon. I found a 3.5" 180 degree aluminum long radius and 3.5" straight pipe there.

Summit Racing is my go to a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Gotcha that piece of pipe in the box looked like 4”. I’ve been looking around online for little sections of 3.5 and filter / v stack combos to make my own short ram and cold air when the time comes. But it sounds like what you’re making is going to be way cooler lol.
The piece in the box was 3.5" with 3/32" wall thickness. So the I.D. is around 3.359". The K-Tuned 3.5" velocity stack is basically the same I.D. so that works out perfect.
These have always reminded me of the Japan integra 👍
The suspension design is ahead of it's time. The DC2, EG, and EK Boy's double wishbone suspension takes a double look at the Accord, realizing somehow the info feels newish.

The 1994 Accord's front has a typical double wishbone with Front Radius Rods ( OEM Traction Bars):
  • Front Radius Rods - OEM Traction Bars. ** A Custom Kit could be fabricated **
  • Front Shock Fork. ** A Custom Billet Aluminum Unit made OEM spec's or Additional Drop **
  • Front Upper Camber Arm Assembly W/ Ball Joint Connected to the Knuckle Arm. ** Aftermarket Options Available **
  • Sway Bar. ** ST Suspension has a 27mm front sway bar **

The 1994 Accord's Rear has a non-typical double wishbone 4-link W/ Trailing Arm
  • Rear Upper Camber Arm W/ Ball Joint. ** Connected to knuckle by an octopus arm. Aftermarket Options Available **
  • Rear Lower Control Arm A. ** Adjustable Aftermarket Options Available. Custom Kits could be fabricated **
  • Rear Lower Control Arm B. ** Adjustable Aftermarket Options Available. Custom Kits could be fabricated **
  • Rear Trailing Arm Assembly. ** Lightweight OEM Unit. Custom Kits could be fabricated **
  • Rear Toe Arms. ** Adjustable Aftermarket Options Available. Custom Kits could be fabricated **
  • Sway Bar. ** ST Suspension has a 21mm rear sway bar.

IMO there is some potential in the 1994-1997 Accord in suspension and handling department for a DD or a weekend track car. The chassis would accept a Kswap (K24 or K20) well because the front end rigidity in the chassis and there weight reductions to be had.

Reasons For Rigidity PRO's of the Front End Chassis & Engine Bay:
- Front Beam Support ( Very Solid OEM Cross-Bar for the Traction Bar Arms ) (PN# 50250-SV1-A00). ** Can be lightened & strengthened OR an upgrade could be made. **

- Front Rear Beam Support ( Very Solid OEM Brace @ base of A-pillar / Firewall ) (PN# 50200-SYB-A00). ** Can be lightened & strengthened. **

- Front Center Beam Support ( Brace that connects perpendicularly on center line b/t front beam & front rear beam ) (PN# 50100-SV4-010). ** A custom brace could be made for rigidity gains **
 

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Discussion Starter #43
10/6/20

Before I remove the engine harness today, I am finishing the engine harness design on paper to know where to lengthen certain parts and stay true to a "tucked" look. My idea is to remove as much of the Outer OEM Plastic covering as possible and add as much shrink wrap to help clean up the engine harness. Since the engine bay fuse box and the battery are being relocated to the same exact area, the charge harness will be easy to tuck.

I am removing the PRB IM permanently today and test fitting the RBC IM. I will double check, triple check the port matching on the head with the thermal IMG. Once I am confident the RBC IM is what I want it to be, it will come off for the plenum welding. If I have time today, I will start weld prepping the seams and front engine bay, radiator housing area, and the front bumper frame areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I need to get some more Honda Bond, copper seal, and other sealants.

I got the alternator and P.S. pump off today. The bolts on the IM are off except two. The lower and upper radiator cross bars as weak, as well as both vertical radiator housing beams. They could all be improved.

The upper area of the front where the bumper ties into frame ends, are weak as well. I noticed that is the area where the SRS system sensor is located. My second thought voice said, " If you make that area stronger it may throw the sensor when to set off the air bags."

Luckly I have some carbon flat bar. I want to make an aluminum upper radiator mount bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The past three days of nonstop rain killed production on the RSX outside.

This is a PRB IM I am working on for a friend.

20201002_133411.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
The Speedfactory tucked radiator does collide with the OEM radiator support. I would like to bring the radiator in another 1"-1.5". I will have to come up with something different if I plan to keep the housing in OEM fashion. It would look better to come up with something custom.

I mocked up a piece of 1" Aluminum schedule 40 pipe as a brace and a way to mount the top of the radiator to. I will fab plates on the left and right vertical radiator housing to be bolted to the steel. This will help stiffen up the front of the chassis as well. May weld tabs to the bracing pipe to catch anti-vibration connections to catch the top of the radiator. I bought some anti-vibration pads for the bottom of the radiator to sit on. The bearing weight of the radiator will not rest on the pads.


20201012_160512.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I was thinking the aluminum brace's placement if the best place for structural rigidity. It is dead center of the two front square tubed frame. It will have to move back another inch and up a 1/4". Yesterday I was covered in bug spray pants and long sleeve. From head to toe there was a bug halo lol.. I am cutting some plates now while the sun is coming out to dry the land.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Looks like you are getting some good work done ! Impressed this is all outside 👍
Thanks brother. If I move it into the gravel it will block the 68' GTO. The city will not let us put up a garage on the property. We live on the water and city permits are hard to come by. We are in the works of getting a small shop.

I got to get this project done. I am feeling the stress of not being able to drive it. I am aiming to pull the engine out the weekend and get the engine inside for surgery.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Thanks brother. If I move it into the gravel it will block the 68' GTO. The city will not let us put up a garage on the property. We live on the water and city permits are hard to come by. We are in the works of getting a small shop.

I got to get this project done. I am feeling the stress of not being able to drive it. I am aiming to pull the engine out the weekend and get the engine inside for surgery.
Uuuuuiiiii...a 400 ci '68 GTO? Two of 3 speed gearbox? Wuuuuuuhuuuuu, I love that metallic deep tumbre at idle. An amazing concept, one of the best GM cars. Would love to see it.

Great progress hear.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Uuuuuiiiii...a 400 ci '68 GTO? Two of 3 speed gearbox? Wuuuuuuhuuuuu, I love that metallic deep tumbre at idle. An amazing concept, one of the best GM cars. Would love to see it.

Great progress hear.
I post some pics in a little bit. The red interior is amazing. Original white paint. 400 ci with a 4 barrel.

what is crazy is the K24 has a longer stroke than it.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Wow, I am really looking forward to see it
. Does it have a Ram Air 2 head?
Unfortunately no the hood has not been cut for the Ram Air. It can still happen though. We picked up the OEM upgrade cast exhaust manifolds that come with the Ram Air 2 package. She is on 5" of gravel pack. It doesn't get wet from the rain with the closed in shelter garage and a car cover. 96,000 miles orginal
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Unfortunately no the hood has not been cut for the Ram Air. It can still happen though. We picked up the OEM upgrade cast exhaust manifolds that come with the Ram Air 2 package. She is on 5" of gravel pack. It doesn't get wet from the rain with the closed in shelter garage and a car cover. 96,000 miles orginal
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That is badass. Is that the original steering wheel to the car ? I don’t know too much about these, but I dig it for sure 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thanks brother. yes it is all original. I want to build a dual exhaust with Vibrant ultra resinators instead of mufflers lol..

No I-4's and V-8's beefN' at this house.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Unfortunately no the hood has not been cut for the Ram Air. It can still happen though. We picked up the OEM upgrade cast exhaust manifolds that come with the Ram Air 2 package. She is on 5" of gravel pack. It doesn't get wet from the rain with the closed in shelter garage and a car cover. 96,000 miles orginal
Woooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuw, that looks soooo tasty man! Now I am jealous, great that guys like you keep that time of car history alive 🆙. I love these metallic deep bubbling crossplane crank and big displacement sound so much...wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. Great car, the red interior is so sexy, reminds me on my '79 Ford Capri, sort of Ford Mustang Pony Car in European size LOL :D, in red color with a brown velour leather and area rug interior, but that wasn't that sexy. Are you going to restore the chassis and the engine?
 
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