With the slotted holes, can't you loosen the bottom bolt and move that bracket upward to line up with your holes?
Tried to... look at the old sliver of paint inside the hole. That is the metal blocking obstruction It was to go or the bolt with strip the threads. In this picture the bushing bracket is at it's lowest alignment snugged up.With the slotted holes, can't you loosen the bottom bolt and move that bracket upward to line up with your holes?
engine is not in the car yet. the head is going to 4Piston tomorrow afternoon.Looks great! Shame the progress brand needed modding, but you've drastically improved it's functionality.
On a side note: I believe I read that the engine is in the car? Any pics of the headwork by 4piston?
This setup looks awesome ! Great work 😎The rear sway bar kit is installed and done. The endlinks are in position resting not connected on the top half. I am going to remove the bottom half and install collars to push them over further so they can be as straight up and down as possible like 6 O'clock lol...
I had to really bore out the obstruction hole. I decided to do away with the carbon fiber plates to gain another full turn on the bushing bracket bolt. Once I find some longer bolts I can put them back. Everything got silver anti-seize b/c I have a 16oz can of it I brought home from my old job.
If I had to recommend this kit I would say go with it. I believe the issues I had with the obstruction may have been two factors at play and not all Progress's fault. The actual location on the subframe could be off a little when it made. The sway bar is heavy has no budge, the bushing and clips are nice, the kit and hardware well put together. The changes I made to it adding stiffeners on the brace to reduce twisting and I drill holes for aero properties.
I was getting to installing the Progress front bar but the heat is getting to me. I have to work on the engine tonight, might crash and get up for a red eye shift on it.
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Looks very good. What is causing you choosing for a bolt link design over a weld link design at the suspension dome brackets?I have also started working on corner gusseting/plating in the lowest point of the B-pillar where others have mentioned it to be a weak point in the chassis construction. A 1.25" chromoly pipe will lock & brace the lower B-pillar reducing flex and weakness. The plates will be sanded to remove rust and prep for welding.
Good question... I want to be able to work behing the engine, in case I need to work on the brake master cylinder, and it will make installing the engine easier. Trust me I really wanted to weld it in, but being adjustable will allow me tighten it some for tension.Looks very good. What is causing you choosing for a bolt link design over a weld link design at the suspension dome brackets?