These blown 1.8L Type R engines scream. He lives off a 10 mile country road and knows the police there. He does work on their cars. They let him rip it lol... Pinning out 4th in B18c5 to 9500rpm is plenty good for a 55mph speed limit.
B&B Performance 2002 DC5-S Street / Track Build
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I would love to have one of these CRX instead of my Lotus. Maybe not a K20, ED9 engine hoods are flat, about 30 mm lower as those of the EE8. My favorite engine for it would be beside the K20 the B16B engine with the B18 block height to reduce rod angle to win back some revs on top. The DAMPFHAMMER and the DH HD would suffer clearance constraints.
It is a very clean CRX. Those jdm B16B's or B18c5 swapsare like $7500 US now and they are used. I would like to have those collector items too.
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Cracy prices, seems collectors have good times.
I would love that type of build- long rod reduces rod angle. less distance the piston has to travel up and down making it easier to fill the cylinders with less time on the intake valve at higher rpm's, and that is the definition of VE. Engine's that have poor VE lose more acceleration on aero force at higher speeds when 4th and 5th gear are being used. Less time will be spent in those gears if the VE is working correctly matched with transmission gear for optimal match and a game breed winning is born.
Steering Rack installed with Mugen Hard Bushings, SHG slider upgrade, and most new hardware. I have some replacement bolts and nuts coming the 31st. K-tuned inner tie rods with oem lock nuts for the Hardrace outer tie rods. This gave me an extra backing nut for the inner arms. Tomorrow morning is finishing TQing some items and drop the car down. I will do the brakes right before I drop the engine back in.
The oem washers go radius side towards the tie rod. The washers are marked for those that can't tell a radius on the washers edge.
I am even on both tie rod arms and test fit the tires to make sure we can get to the alignment rack when needed. My steering wheel is still tied TDC in position. The yoke can be connected in the morning.
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The oem washers go radius side towards the tie rod. The washers are marked for those that can't tell a radius on the washers edge.
I am even on both tie rod arms and test fit the tires to make sure we can get to the alignment rack when needed. My steering wheel is still tied TDC in position. The yoke can be connected in the morning.
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As a non-native-speaker I didn't get this. Can you please help me to get this more clear?
I didn't waste the morning before the rain storm today. I left the appropriate flange bolts unTQ'd until after the squat.
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The DC5 is down and ready to be moved around.
The DC5 is down and ready to be moved around.
The OEM Honda lock washers are labled on the radius side of the edge.
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A list of OEM parts coming in a few days for the DC5 chassis, rear control arm subframe/suspension flange bolts, rear coilover bolts, brakes line clips, PS lines, ABS bracket flange bolts, 2007 K20Z3 upper cam chain guide B, K20z3 Oil filter heat baffle I am going to attempt to install on a K20a2 block, new oil pan flange bolts,
Part Number | Part Name | Price | Quantity | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
11224-RRB-010 | Baffle, Oil Filter Heat | $19.42 | 1 | $19.42 |
14540-RAA-A02 | Guide B, Cam Chain | $18.13 | 1 | $18.13 |
95701-06032-08 | Bolt, Flange (6X32) | $1.17 | 15 | $17.55 |
95701-06030-08 | Bolt, Flange (6X30) | $1.35 | 3 | $4.05 |
95801-06045-08 | Bolt, Flange (6X45) | $1.35 | 2 | $2.70 |
90651-538-000 | Clip, Brake Hose | $5.05 | 4 | $20.20 |
93403-08016-08 | Bolt-Washer (8X16) | $1.24 | 6 | $7.44 |
93412-08016-08 | Bolt-Washer (8X16) | $1.19 | 2 | $2.38 |
95701-08016-08 | Bolt, Flange (8X16) | $1.10 | 4 | $4.40 |
90181-S84-A00 | Bolt, Trailing Arm (12X68) | $2.63 | 2 | $5.26 |
90304-S10-024 | Nut, Flange (10MM) | $3.26 | 6 | $19.56 |
90398-S5A-000 | Bolt, Flange (12X81.5) | $5.58 | 2 | $11.16 |
90801-S5A-000 | Bolt, Flange (8X25) | $2.47 | 2 | $4.94 |
90704-PNA-000 | Key (4.5X21) | $3.95 | 1 | $3.95 |
93404-06012-07 | Bolt-Washer (6X12) | $0.99 | 1 | $0.99 |
15845-RAA-A01 | Filter Assembly, Vtc | $7.18 | 1 | $7.18 |
95701-06012-08 | Bolt, Flange (6X12) | $1.08 | 6 | $6.48 |
93405-06016-08 | Bolt-Washer (6X16) | $1.13 | 3 | $3.39 |
93403-06012-08 | Bolt-Washer (6X12) | $1.02 | 1 | $1.02 |
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Wow thanks, the manual text and pictures made perfectly to understand what you meant with it. Thanks for your effort to clarify this for me 🆙.
What are your next steps on the engine?
You are welcome brother. I like to read the manuals over and over. There are always fine details in the print that are easily overlooked.
The head is still going to 4Piston when I get back from vacation next Tuesday. Once I get the head back, it is going back together. The old set of Z1 (030) cams came with cam gears. I am not going to use those cam gears. I am removing the cam gears from the K20a2 cams originally from the engine and installing them on the Drag Cartel cams with new : pin dowels, flange bolts, TDC pulse plates, and sealing bolts. I also have a Toda HD timing chain to install.
I am using a K20a2 exhaust cam gear. Is there a better oem version I should be using?
2006 K20a3 cam gear is lighter yet not meant for the TypeS valvetrain with TypeS (PRB) cams or stronger cams.
The heavier gear will smoothen out the pulses from the harder more compressed valvesprings and therefor be more kinder to camchain and other connectecting rotating stuff.
Using the lighter cam gear will lower the center of gravity and give a slightly more alert Engine. With higher risk of camchain tensioning.
The heavier gear will smoothen out the pulses from the harder more compressed valvesprings and therefor be more kinder to camchain and other connectecting rotating stuff.
Using the lighter cam gear will lower the center of gravity and give a slightly more alert Engine. With higher risk of camchain tensioning.
Some OEM goodness arrives....
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Nice. You must have done a big shopping event. Where did you buy it?
www.oemacuraparts.com
One of the parts is a z3 oil filter heat guard. I need to see if it can be fit to a k20a2 block.
The parts are fo the following:
I really like ordering new flange bolts. Seeing new bolts shows character to a restore or rebuild not to mention the "show quality." In my opinion, I feel that certain builds have a incomplete feeling when the engine bay and chassis have either flashy or big money parts and the photo image shows rusted used bolt heads
One of the parts is a z3 oil filter heat guard. I need to see if it can be fit to a k20a2 block.
The parts are fo the following:
- 2007 upper timing chain guide (long version vs. PRB version)
- z3 oil filter heat guard
- clutch cover bolts
- front and rear brake line mounting bolts
- front & rear brakeline bracket flange bolts
- brake line clips
- rear control arm @ subframe flange bolts
- rear coilover bolts
- ABS unit bracket mount bolts
- parking brake cable flange bolts (underside)
- K20a2 oil pan bolts (15qty.) & (3qty. longer bolts on timing chain cover side)
- clutch res. bracket bolts
- upper coilover mount nuts
- crankpulley hex key
- VTC filter
- heater core hardline flange bolt
- power steering bracket flange bolt
- power steering line bolts
I really like ordering new flange bolts. Seeing new bolts shows character to a restore or rebuild not to mention the "show quality." In my opinion, I feel that certain builds have a incomplete feeling when the engine bay and chassis have either flashy or big money parts and the photo image shows rusted used bolt heads
The brake proportion valve has new flange bolts.
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These are differences in the oem flange nuts for coilover assemblies vs. the flange nuts that come with the BC Racing Coilovers. Granted the BC has the anti-slip design under the nut, but is that better than the oem design, I do not think so. I feel the oem nuts exceed in quality always.
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These are differences in the oem flange nuts for coilover assemblies vs. the flange nuts that come with the BC Racing Coilovers. Granted the BC has the anti-slip design under the nut, but is that better than the oem design, I do not think so. I feel the oem nuts exceed in quality always.
I am thinking of swapping over to the Z3 tranny because I want the 4.7 FD and the Z3 tranny has 70,000 miles.
K20z3 transmission working with K20a2 engine write up:
www.k20a.org
K20z3 transmission working with K20a2 engine write up:
How to use an 06 Si trans with your 02-04 engine
Hey drhonda, just wondering if you remember what drill size and tap for the shifter mechanism bolt off the top of your head? If not, ill just take a bolt to work next week and find a tap to suit and check the tap/drill chart.
www.k20a.org
Little late night bath lol...
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