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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
HELLA Good Price I will take it &;

The requirements on me to get the best out of these cams are choosing the exact 3" intake piping dia & length & the correct length of 3.5" intake pipe & correct concentric reducer length & dia's. This will be a Ram Air set up very similar to BTCC. I am typing a bunch of words like correct, exact, perfect dia, etc. Inside diameters all match 360 degrees and are flush; if not, they must flushed smooth. I have designed the intake system to allow me to do this.

Hopefully the header choice was a good one and I have some work on it to improve flow. The header is going to have a (1) test pipe and (2) megaphone test pipe. 3" straight through throughout.

Intake manifold ported polished. Runners port matched to PRB-1. TB bored 70mm & tapered leading inside.

PRB-1 minor hand porting on intake and exhaust. 4 angle valve job, Ferrea 6000 valves, new valve guides. New fresh seals for the valves and valve seats. AP1 PCX YELLOW outer valve spring PRB INNER intake & exhaust, Supertech Ti Retainers. New head gasket. Pistons cleaned. I feel there is extra power on the table with having a fresh Sealing cylinder head at the valve & valve seal, flow improved valves, valves that stay centerline inside of the guides meaning they seal properly on the face and seat.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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flow improved valves
What does this mean? The stock valves, especially the PPA/RSP head valves, flows already quite good compared to the Ferrea or Manley. They have a nice back cut and are well shaped at the edge (in and ex). They are just not "thinned" at the flow touching stem.

valves that stay centerline inside of the guides meaning they seal properly on the face and seat.
What clearance you are approaching for the valve stem-valve guide clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #483 ·
That is a great question Markus, I was quoting the information on the Ferrea 6000 intake & exhaust valves and this is what I copied from 4Piston's website:

" Ferrea Valves, the world’s leading manufacturer of racing valves, introduces the Sport Compact market into the already race-proven Ferrea 6000 Series Competition Valves. This Ferrea Valve Series is designed to provide excellent reliability in an environment of high RPM and high spring pressures, at a budget price.

These valves have higher fatigue resistance and tensile strengths than our competitor’s best offering. The 6000 Series Competition Valves are specially designed for street, drag and rally racing applications. To manufacture the valves we use our exclusive two-step slow-forging process applied to the special alloys selected to suit intake and exhaust applications. We provide a unique heat-treatment and stress-relieving process, along with hard chrome stems and friction-welded hard tips. We finish the valves with a swirl-polished head.

Ferrea Valves feature flow improvements to deliver the power needed for today’s sophisticated Sport Compact racing engines. "


This above does not include scientific data nor flow comparisons to OEM valves. As to why I choose to buy them, well that comes down to a "want" and "cheaper" than OEM valves. Do I have strong evidence that they are better than RSP/RRA valves - No I do not. Here are the part #'s for the valves I am leaving behind:

-- 2002 K20a2 Intake Valve PN# (14711-PRB-A01)
-- 2002 K20a2 Exhaust Valve PN# (14721-PRB-A00)



What clearance you are approaching for the valve stem-valve guide clearance?
What I was getting at by my statement is - new valves (true,straight) will pass through the valve guides (true,straight) on centerline. Therefore the valve's sealing surface will close (true,flush,correct) on it's seat vs. used valves (untrue,slightly bent stems) no longer sitting (true,flush,correct) resulting in poor closure. Does this make better sense?

In my previous post I was attempting to make the "performance rebuild" seem bigger than it is in terms of flow and power potential improvement b/c my true wants for the engine build will not be happening this go around. Though doing a "performance rebuild" seems to be the best way to get the most out of a build when installing aftermarket cams, decent bolt-ons, custom IM's, ect. ect. OR at least the results can and should be more accurate compared to doing it all without tackling the head work. Is it all worth it..? I will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #484 ·
small update. the work on the dc5 is resuming after a short break with covid and health issues with my heart. it takes much dedication to not just fold and sell it all when heavy things become pilled up against the chest. Because of the issues I have with my heart, the ER doctor said it will take me three times longer to get over covid's side effects. The worst being the shortness of breath and the chest pains, not knowing how much I should do or not do. I choose to take off working on the car to recover up to the point I feel confident in myself and the shortness of breath began to retire from me.

I am happy for the support from the members on this forum @KBuilt and @LotusElise . Thanks guys.
 

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small update. the work on the dc5 is resuming after a short break with covid and health issues with my heart. it takes much dedication to not just fold and sell it all when heavy things become pilled up against the chest. Because of the issues I have with my heart, the ER doctor said it will take me three times longer to get over covid's side effects. The worst being the shortness of breath and the chest pains, not knowing how much I should do or not do. I choose to take off working on the car to recover up to the point I feel confident in myself and the shortness of breath began to retire from me.

I am happy for the support from the members on this forum @KBuilt and @LotusElise . Thanks guys.
I’ve looked back on the every car I parted out and wished I kept it all. I hope your health improves soon so you can get back into the full swing of the build!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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As to why I choose to buy them, well that comes down to a "want" and "cheaper" than OEM valves
Flow-wise the difference between Ferrea and the OEM valves (RSP/PPA) is not worth. If your OEM valves are in good condition (low to none wear, coaxiality and linearity of the shaft), don't change them. I would either change the guides and hone them properly to spec according the guide material (bronze-copper, casted iron, ...). As you wrote...

Does this make better sense?
...the better the clearance (more tight but not seizure = better) at the guide, the more precise and effective the valves will close. Bigger shaft clearances lead to more oscillation of the valve in the seat after first closing impact and you will loose some ponies. But anytime you change one of the parts: guide, valve or seat, anytime you need to centring them newly. A new seat cut when new guides, a new seat cut when new valves and a new seat cut when new seats.

I choose to take off working on the car to recover up to the point I feel confident in myself and the shortness of breath began to retire from me.
Keep your strongness and push even more against this challenger. The built can wait. Nothing more important then family and healthiness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Thanks to the both of you for the positivity and kind words. Things are going back to normal slowly but surely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #488 ·
I am going to build something like this, just will look a little different. TracTuff sells these for $549.00. I have already purchased all the parts to build these, so I have nothing to invest in buying these from anyone.


Automotive lighting Cylinder Auto part Nickel Font
 

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Discussion Starter · #489 ·
This is a cool chart of oil flow. Found this on the TracTuff page related to the cam tower oil mod.

this thread is very helpful in oiling the #5 cam tower : #5 Cam tower oiling mod - worth it?


Auto part Engineering Machine Font Rectangle

Font Material property Screenshot Document Publication
 

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I did post my two cent on the thread you've mentioned and was in motion to do a sticky to that topic in the Advanced Engine Theory to make a clear and proven statement to oil pump modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
I did post my two cent on the thread you've mentioned and was in motion to do a sticky to that topic in the Advanced Engine Theory to make a clear and proven statement to oil pump modifications.
That would be a great sticky
 

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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
With better weather hitting my area, work on the car has started to pick up. I have finished removing more sound deadening material leaving the two small sections under the rear seats. No pics taken, I will get to that in the next few days as I have more work produced to show of these following things:

1) Make the connection points of the middle floor beam stronger by boxing the connection with steel plates and weld to the chassis. Now the beam will have something solid to connect to. This will reduce flex in the lower B-pillar area.

2) Under the middle floor beam, I am going to weld gussets at the bottom of the B-pillar and weld a 1.25" chromoly pipe connecting side to side. The pipe will have gusset clips connecting the new bar from middle floor cross member to the front floor and at the sills at the ends.

Finally I am making provisions to tuck the exhaust up to help out with the notorious low exhaust clearance with 3" on coilovers. I am sourcing the material and installing the passenger seat to determine how high I will actually be able to come up. Though I will be limited how much that will be due to the 1.25" chromoly bar at the b-pillar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #493 ·
This morning I got the 05-06 21mm rear sway bar on with new oem types bushings. I got the 05-06 26.4mm front sway on too with oem bushings. Can't TQ nothing tip she is now on wheels with engine. Things are snugged up. The end links fit nicely centerline through the bars holes. New oem flange bolts in rear with anti-sieze. The oem bushings come heavily waxed inside and out and fit perfectly.

Though the front sway bar bolts had the wrong bolt in the packages.. had to install the old ones wire brushed with anit-sieze.

Bought to clean up some welds and paint prep the engine bay. So I can get the steering rack in Pronto vamos son-of-bitch. I want he tie rods inner and outer. Get the steering wheel hooked back up.

I want to move the car without motor. Then gravel back under the car.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I want to move the car without motor. Then gravel back under the car.
Things moving forward :)! Seems like tough times under the chassis are coming next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #495 ·
Things moving forward :)! Seems like tough times under the chassis are coming next?
steering rack assembly, inner & outer tie rods easy without an engine installed, brakes easy.

yes there will be a few tough times under the chassis. I am skeeming having it towed to build the following: custom exhaust & tunneling. Today I am going to check if a guy I know has a donor DC5 to cut pieces of unibody, like the front half (only section) on the exhaust tunneling on the DC5. I aim to cut the tunnel out and connect it the backside of existing tunnel to the lower b-pillar. Tack weld it new installed tunnel to the unibody, then cutout the section not needed from underneath. The parking brake assembly and cables will have to be raised.
I would rather be cracking a go at this from under a lift.

I have voted within myself to install all of the suspension replacement bushing until the car is up and running. I have already purchased Hardrace rear knuckle bushings & all brand new suspension bolts for the rear, what is needed to perform the duties, rigid hard collars for the rear. I have purchase Energy Suspension bushing master set. It will be easy to install them later as the front knuckle and lower control arm can be left installed while swapping bushings. My good buddy said to hold off until the BC Coilovers are dialed in then I can determine how much hardness I am cool with.
 

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This morning I got the 05-06 21mm rear sway bar on with new oem types bushings. I got the 05-06 26.4mm front sway on too with oem bushings. Can't TQ nothing tip she is now on wheels with engine. Things are snugged up. The end links fit nicely centerline through the bars holes. New oem flange bolts in rear with anti-sieze. The oem bushings come heavily waxed inside and out and fit perfectly.

Though the front sway bar bolts had the wrong bolt in the packages.. had to install the old ones wire brushed with anit-sieze.

Bought to clean up some welds and paint prep the engine bay. So I can get the steering rack in Pronto vamos son-of-bitch. I want he tie rods inner and outer. Get the steering wheel hooked back up.

I want to move the car without motor. Then gravel back under the car.
This is reminding me about the sway bar bushings I received from you some time ago 😅 I have many things on the to-do list. Glad to see you are knocking some items off yours 👍
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Discussion Starter · #498 ·
This is reminding me about the sway bar bushings I received from you some time ago 😅 I have many things on the to-do list. Glad to see you are knocking some items off yours 👍
KBuilt the oem bushings are hella waxy I just installed. Again use some anti-seize on the flange bolt threads it will preserve the inside portions. 3-36 is a decent lubricate if there is not wax or whatever is clever
 

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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
Great advice.
From my buddy Kirt. ASE certd' in Honda & Nissan 45 years. He built a road course prepped CRX roots sc b18c5 usdm itr and with all suspension bushings. A bit ruff but purpose built.

Suspension is one of those things that has many improvement experiences to offer from slowly dialing it in vs. doing everything at once. I might have some issues with obstruction 3" between the chassis and rear sway bar. I need to test fit 3" pipe from a couple different angles.

Today,
I have a parts order going out for some odd ball stuff. Remove old rear rotors, old front rotors, remove front spacers, test fit front end links. get the brake calipers out and get clean and organized. the steering rack is read to go in. i just want to paint behind it.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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From my buddy Kirt. ASE certd' in Honda & Nissan 45 years. He built a road course prepped CRX roots sc b18c5 usdm itr and with all suspension bushings. A bit ruff but purpose built.
Sounds like the right man for the job.
 
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