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I have been removing the undercoating in the wheel wells on the both sides of the seams. These marked spots will be stitch welded with 1/4" long x 3/32" width welds. 1st they will be tacked. The best tool for removing this stuff is a stone bit (bur bit) with a straight grinder. Before the welding takes place in the underside of the wheel wells and on the opposite site around the strut towers, again am welding additional bracing to prevent distortion. Before I was tacking around these areas.with the same bar welded on the other side and i still do not let it get hot. I have to final weld prepped around the strut towers now by grinding the tacks down almost flattish with the start and at stop sections tapered down for better weld blending. The blending done wrong will only create weak welds by not breaking the metal down in the puddle well on starts and stops. again leave the cut long. one of the cross bars is a 1.25" chromoly pipe that was left long to be used as a brace during welding processes.

Where the clips will attach to the strut tower I am adding gusset strips to spread the contact better. At my old work we would drill one hole in the gusset plate to allow pressure from heat to vent, then can be plugged on full pen welds that trap air from complete sealant venting while welding. while welding at the last section it would get very hot fast, then the last part of the weld would blow out from the vent. I am not inserting a plug on a thin gusset plate. I will leave a hole for heat venting and water draining at the lowest point. i doubt i will seal weld it anyway. just wanted to share that story with you. View attachment 105912 View attachment 105913
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there is still more paint and undercoating to remove before welding. i need to use a needle cone bur bit w/ straight grinder to get inside the deeper hollows of metal meeting areas. i prefer the Kobolt battery pack from Lowes w/ two batteries. i am puzzled how the bushings inside the tool do not wear hardly like others. i can fix Metabo, Dewalt angle grinders 100%. i would fix 5-6 a day sometimes at my old work. during surgery recoveries I had to find ways to sit down all day for 6-8 months. i would fix tools that most people toss and it is just a simple brush change.

i learned how to fix welders, 440A service items, 440A custom harnesses, Sub-Arc welder that is two stories tall, I have been shocked by 440 service. luckly when i was a kid i was shocked a whole bunch so i was used to it. and on through life i have been shocked by 220A service, 120V service. but 440 will throw a screwdriver 30 ft from your hand and made my arm hurt for a few hours. be careful kids, leave it to the pros and use lock out tag out tags and locks at work. my problem was i was distracted and was doing the same actions 200 times in a row inspecting 440 service equipment because it will loosen from heat cycles, they have to be checked monthly and color coded by colored electrical tape marking each month. all businesses should adopt this practice and inspect their electrical cords, connections, and equipment at their place of work. it is simple and an easy task to split up for each employee then rotate. was this my fault absolutely it was. when doing these tasks no matter how loud it is in the room etc. one still has to center themselves, just like driving a big ass truck. you get the picture, my point.

Not all people where not shocked as a kid a whole bunch, so electrical shocks kill them 1st go. your welcome world.
Lol this is how superhero stories start😂

You revealed yourself...
 

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Mugen Stainless Steel 2-ply Head Gasket Instructions
Please someone help translate. Thank you in advance.
View attachment 105644 View attachment 105645 View attachment 105646

Please someone help translate. Thank you in advance
On the last page:
Apply liquid packing to the broken lines (both sides) in the figure below when installing the product.

The first page just tells you this is for the dc5 or ep3 type r and tells you to check the packaging and contents.

Download Google Translate on your phone, it makes quick work of recognizing text and translating.
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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1,179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #386 ·
Same thing that happened to mine but it happened so quickly that I believe that the culprit is the ball bearing that jumps on this thing. Mine seems to be sticking for whatever reason and this wear happened really quickly.
yes indeed. the interlock has the ball bearing. i ordered a new one just to be on the safe side
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #387 ·
On the last page:
Apply liquid packing to the broken lines (both sides) in the figure below when installing the product.

The first page just tells you this is for the dc5 or ep3 type r and tells you to check the packaging and contents.

Download Google Translate on your phone, it makes quick work of recognizing text and translating.
thanks, I installed it without Hondabond or something equal or better. I knew I fucked up and am in the process of fixing it. The whole thing has been a wonder learning experience, the one mistake I made was a costly one. I should have never bought the Mugen head gasket, I am happy the 3-ply is going on. The head is coming off right now as we speak.
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #389 ·
11/10/21

Cleaned every seal surface cleanly with a razor blade. They are ready for install after solvent cleaning. The cams and rockers are coming out after dinner. When I install the water passage and water pump I will square the water pump Pulley off of the crankpulley. Fosho the block needs to be wire brushed and degreased again.
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Discussion Starter · #390 ·
I need to take a loan out for some Drag Cartel DIC's. I know I just dropped coin on oem parts, I need these to restore the proper function of the chassis, engine, and transmission. I can never come up with that amount of money at one time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #391 ·
I want to remove the top of the water passage and at the same time do not in case I decide to run the auto tensioner assembly. Since they are discontinued they are about $200 shipped on ebay I do not want to start cutting it up. I want to be able to remove my intake manifold easily and install the studs I purchased. I remember seeing a thread awhile back here where a guy notched the water passage so the intake manifold would not have to be spun on. It really is not a big deal about the intake manifold stud install right now, mainly I need to drill a hole where the auto tensioner assembly would mount. Luckily there are three places I can drill a small hole for a 6-8AN hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
11/11/21 Status

The head is off the block, rockers are zip tied. The block is covered and sealed for the night.
I am going to take the valvesprings off in the morning and switch back to the dual valve spring, seats, and Ti Retainers with Supertech cotter.

In the pictures are oem valves that passed service, oem cotters , oem Z1 Retainers, z1 valvesprings. ARP head studs,
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Discussion Starter · #393 ·
How to remove Hybrid Racing oil cooler hoses. These fit tight getting them off requires thought 😆
Get a mini wedge pin bar like this one. Take a small thin flathead screwdriver and start the screwdriver in. The use the wedge pry side of the wedge pin bar as a blunt flat object. From the pin side tap with a small hammer.
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With that small screw driver inserted I'll spray some silicon spray lube in there then twist them back and forth to spread it round the circumference of the hose. Helps them slip off easily, just clean it off throughly before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #395 ·
With that small screw driver inserted I'll spray some silicon spray lube in there then twist them back and forth to spread it round the circumference of the hose. Helps them slip off easily, just clean it off throughly before reassembly.
the oil cooler hoses are crazy tight. I used grease to get them on and there was still grease there, they are just very tight nice hoses.
 

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96 civic HX K24a
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11/10/21

Cleaned every seal surface cleanly with a razor blade. They are ready for install after solvent cleaning. The cams and rockers are coming out after dinner. When I install the water passage and water pump I will square the water pump Pulley off of the crankpulley. Fosho the block needs to be wire brushed and degreased again.
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Looking good 👍 Gasoline and an old toothbrush works super too for the block and trans + cheap
 

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With that small screw driver inserted I'll spray some silicon spray lube in there then twist them back and forth to spread it round the circumference of the hose. Helps them slip off easily, just clean it off throughly before reassembly.
Yes , the silicone lubricant is a must for anything with aftermarket hoses or couplers. Had to reach for some when swapping my intakes around the other day and I couldn’t believe I ever went without the stuff 😂
 
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