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View attachment 102561

RBC IM to K20 PRB head. I am not exactly done, there a tiny bit to remove on the last one.
Looks good. I have a couple no name thermal gaskets, one for tsx and one for rsx. I checked the prb gasket against the rbc ports and there wasn’t quite as much leftover but still not a perfect match. I have a friend who’s skilled in these areas, but I’m not sure what the cost would be vs attempting my own matching up. But I would like the incoming air to have a proper path from throttle body to the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Looks good. I have a couple no name thermal gaskets, one for tsx and one for rsx. I checked the prb gasket against the rbc ports and there wasn’t quite as much leftover but still not a perfect match. I have a friend who’s skilled in these areas, but I’m not sure what the cost would be vs attempting my own matching up. But I would like the incoming air to have a proper path from throttle body to the valves.
A "proper" path is important. Even a small section of stock in the pathway will create a negative pressure zone inside. Inside meaning when the runner meet the head. It will block air going towards the intake port. When the intake valve closes, a the incoming wave of air will bounce back off the valve and it will move back towards the plenum to be stored. The negative pressure pocket will disrupt this and also hurt fuel atomization.

There are some secrets to the trade in port matching IM's, Thermal IMG, and cylinder head intake ports.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
The goal is this weekend is to finish mock up on the parts I am making that will go into the engine bay. Finalize the bracing brackets for the parts by using the existing stock locations already given to me. I am creating my own ram air filter box out of aluminum and carbon fiber and I will admit it is one of the dominant engine bay parts. To me Honda utilized a good spot in the engine bay to make their airbox assembly. I am going to continue with Honda's idea but change the function and plumbing of the airbox.

The top of the airbox will be feed by a ram air scoop assembly fabricated into the hood. The bottom of the airbox will be feed from duct work coming from the front of the car. The airbox inside of the engine bay will be protected from heatsoak and engine bay temps. The velocity stack will not be flush fit on the inside of the airbox, I thought that would be neat, but it would change the dynamics of the intake. The velocity stack will have a filter. For right now the intake pipe will go into the airbox and at the walls a rubber sleeve will seal and protect the intake pipe from vibrating against the airbox's outer walls.

I will be pulling the engine out of the car after I am done with the engine bay part mock up, make the bracketing work, and complete the parts and check their install. I will be pulling the engine and transmission out after this. Since I am going with a SpeedFactory tucked radiator, I have already drained the oem radiator and removed it. This will make pulling the engine and transmission out easy. Once the engine is out I can begin working on the engine bay.

What is going to happen in the engine bay..... :

  • stitch welding
  • engine mount reinforcement
  • SpeedFactory Radiator Test Fit
  • Upper strut tower reinforcement
  • Upper strut tower bar
  • subframe reinforcement welds
  • clutch reservoir relocation
  • clutch line upgrade install
  • K-Tuned Adj. Inner Tie Rods
  • Start Working an Alternator Relocation Kit
  • Clean Up Engine Harness
  • Clean Up Radiator Wire Harness
  • Clean Up Alternator, Starter, Batter, and Fuse Box Harnesses
  • cleaning and painting
  • begin front splitter designing
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is the aluminum tubing I am going to fabricate a valvecover breather box from. 6061 Aluminum tube 4" x 2". This piece is ruffly 2ft. I will be using just a section of it. This pic is just to show the material and how some of the fittings will look.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
10/2/20

I spoke with a previous employer today about renting a gasoline powered Miller Bobcat 250A welder. I am calling this upcoming Monday about it. I will be able to power my high frequency Tig 200 to weld my aluminum parts
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
20201002_133203.jpg
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I picked this up today.

This new one won't fix in the toy box. This little bad boy will do SS exhaust by tig, mig, or fluxcore. It will do all carbon steel and steel stitch welding by mig or fluxcore. It will even do small aluminum jobs with a wire spool gun.

I also got a new gas tank for 75/25 gas for fluxcore
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
The rear lip is nice too. This 94 Accord has a sick front and rear suspension in OEM form.

Front has double wishbone. Honda's standard upper camber arm, fork, front lower control arm, and OEM traction bars. Sway bar.

Rear has double wishbone. A extended length upper camber arm, fork, double
20201004_163026.jpg
rear lower control arms, trailing arm, toe arms, and Sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No sir. Just 3.5" intake for now. I might play with a 4" section one day. Once I cut the 2" x 4"x Aluminum concentric reducer, I will have a 3.5" x 4" reducer leftover
 

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No sir. Just 3.5" intake for now. I might play with a 4" section one day. Once I cut the 2" x 4"x Aluminum concentric reducer, I will have a 3.5" x 4" reducer leftover
Gotcha that piece of pipe in the box looked like 4”. I’ve been looking around online for little sections of 3.5 and filter / v stack combos to make my own short ram and cold air when the time comes. But it sounds like what you’re making is going to be way cooler lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Gotcha that piece of pipe in the box looked like 4”. I’ve been looking around online for little sections of 3.5 and filter / v stack combos to make my own short ram and cold air when the time comes. But it sounds like what you’re making is going to be way cooler lol.
The piece in the box was 3.5". The K-Tuned 3.5" velocity stack is basically the same I.D. so that works out perfect.
These have always reminded me of the Japan integra 👍
The suspension design is ahead of it's time. The DC2, EG, and EK Boy's double wishbone suspension takes a double look at the Accord, realizing somehow the info feels newish.

The 1994 Accord's front has a typical double wishbone with Front Radius Rods ( OEM Traction Bars):
  • Front Radius Rods - Similar to Traction Bars.
  • Front Shock Absorb Fork.
  • Front Upper Arm Assembly W/ Ball Joint Connected to the knuckle
  • Sway Bar
The 1994 Accord's Rear has a non-typical double wishbone 4-link W/ Trailing Arm
  • Rear Upper Camber Arm W/ Ball Joint. Connected to knuckle by an octopus arm
  • Rear Lower Control Arm A
  • Rear Lower Control Arm B
  • Rear Trailing Arm Assembly
  • Sway Bar
The Accord has some potential for being a lightweight, rigid chassis, and a nice custom one off suspension .
 
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