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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #361 ·
I would say the HG is all good brother. Run that sh!t
thanks man. i was under the impression one of the orders I placed to the oem parts dealer for valve seals A & B oem did not actually go through. so now i have to reorder the valve seals and cotters from Supertech. This is all I am waiting on now to complete the engine repair. i am not going to replace the valve guides at the moment. i have simply run out of money. i need the valve seals and cotter because i want to install Supertech Ti Retainers since i already have them on hand now. i will be back under the valve train in less than 20,000 miles. however the 20,000 miles will take some time to reach as i am not DD the dc5
 

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Discussion Starter · #363 ·
the past three days has rained here heavily with heavy winds. the plan was to take the engine apart in the garage , the humidity was too high. there are some good cool dry air days coming soon. i am hoping to get the engine into the car in 7 days.

getting aluminum welding into production is key at this point.
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #365 ·
Today I was able to get some weld prepping done by removing this God ugly sound proofing material. I am doing strengthening at the lower B-pillar area and lower A-pillar area, by welding in gussets and stitch welding. these areas are important to me because I am needing a tunnel to tuck my exhaust into. The way the dc5 and ep3 chassis deal with exhaust piping is not to my satisfaction. Before I begin to cut into the floor of the chassis, I want to have things rigid.

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I still have more sound proofing to remove. If I have to make a guess on the weight savings - 30lbs at least total for the inside of the cabin. The 5 gallon bucket is completely full and packed tight and there is more to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #367 ·
Today again carrying over the sound proof removal material duties over to the driver's side. Without dry ice for removal, I use a heat gun and it takes two stages - 1st bulk removal. 2nd final wipe off. The trunk area has the 1st stage done. The area under the seats needs both stages and the entire inside will be done. Where I will actually weld at, I will use a sanding flapper bit (60 grit) to further weld prep to obtain clean metal to weld.

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Today again carrying over the sound proof removal material duties over to the driver's side. Without dry ice for removal, I use a heat gun and it takes two stages - 1st bulk removal. 2nd final wipe off. The trunk area has the 1st stage done. The area under the seats needs both stages and the entire inside will be done. Where I will actually weld at, I will use a sanding flapper bit (60 grit) to further weld prep to obtain clean metal to weld.

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The shell is looking good on the outside ✅ that’s some good info on the removal by heat I have always only done the dry Ice way but if you already had the heat gun it would save some money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #369 ·
Wow that is some ugly shit 😂 nice work ! Looks much better.
thank brother, it is absolutely ugly shit but absolutely a free weight reduction of 30lbs so far and there is still more to go. I was going to leave the sections by the tunnel for heat protection but those areas have bubbled through. It would be better to place a heat shield underneath in the tunnel areas and I am heat proof painting that section of exhaust piping.

If I were to continue under the chassis removing undercoating then paint I could lose a great deal more weight, however I am not ready for all that work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #370 ·
The shell is looking good on the outside ✅ that’s some good info on the removal by heat I have always only done the dry Ice way but if you already had the heat gun it would save some money.
i love the tint on the windows, the 2002 dc5 and ep3 have some cool factory tint option that is now considered illegal tint by the state police. I have been pulled for it and it hit like 36 on their meter. Of course I said, " look at the factory logo on the glass, it came that way, what do you want me to do about it remove it and redo it?"...... lol... It is the way it came douche bag and now you know.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Very nice view in your pictures. Is it your home place?

* Retainer, Valve Sp. - 2002 K20a2 (14765-PRB-A01) = 13.1g ea
* Ti Retainer, Valve Sp. - Supertech (RET-K20A2/T2-16) = 8.0g ea
Thanks for sharing @Them Witches! Did you already do experience by installing valve springs with it, like fitment, quality, ...?
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
This brand check valve style. I want to make a heat shield and this is the idea leaving that the outside edge needs a good trim line to not look so bulky. The way I see it I do not have to mount it to the header preventing less heat soak. I can make three mounting spots, at the valve cover, at the VTEC solenoid heat shield to a non-tq bearing flange bolt, and to the half shaft shield bolt location. As far as the heat shield material goes I was thinking about heat proof painting 6061 aluminum. If I can find SS that is not thin. And I have an old SS grill that I could cut up.
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Discussion Starter · #376 ·
I have been holding out on sharing this header review with you guys b/c I was not sure if I was going to try to return it which was turning into a big run around ending in the owner of Speed Star Racing telling me the obstructions inside of the header are cosmetic. SSR would not return my calls nor emails. The company SSR sells this particular header to is www.rsxstore.com. The rsxstore did nothing to help in this matter and gave me the run around. Not once did they return the many answer machine messages I left & emails. These companies are scammers in my opinion putting an extremely high price on poor craftsmanship, customer service, and false advertising. The rsxstore sold me a lip that was advertised high quality fiberglass, came as some heavy poly plastic material I did not want. After fitment on my bumper, I would have to glue it or screw it in many places. It took two months of demanding a refund to get hem to send me a ticket for shipping. Yet I have to buy the box to ship it in, then hope they refund. These companies I bad for the industry and the community. I will never buy from both companies again mainly because they do not care about craftsmanship and it is hard to tell what the inside of a header looks like before it is bought online.

So here are some pics tell me what you think about the collector line up and wonderful cutting skills of this company. The manager said this , " I have sold 1,000 of these headers and only had 2 returned, so I know the header you received is fine. The obstructions are only cosmetic." I said to him you just said the word OBSTRUCTIONS. And cosmetic is an adjective in make-up, headers do better when they flow are freely as possible and that had nothing to do with make-up.

I will be able to repair the obstructions with a flapper wheel bit and extension and fuse weld the primaries at the flange and taper the entrances. Still I should not have to do this.
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HERE is another one for you. See the rust on the primary flange, that is from cross contamination of using an abrasive on this SS piece that has been previously used on carbon steel. The carbon is embedded into the flange and does not show up until down the road. Shitty craftsmanship, in my previous industry someone would get their ass chewed up for cross contamination. I know of many companies that have lost huge contracts due to this getting out into the industry and the companies failing audits from Quality Control. I know this is autom it is just another reason speed star racing in a junk company that sold me a decent header design fabricated by someone 7 years old.
 

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2002 DC5 Type S
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Discussion Starter · #377 ·
Good start to a new day. Removed the crankpulley by carefully measuring where the oem backer wrench's correct placement to counter the 19mm breaker bar. The Crank didn't even shutter and came off with ease for 181lb.

Removed the timing cover bolts. The fresh sealant job I did does not want to come off easily lol... I will get it. Because I used a K motor oil pan gasket I put sealant on it incase I needed to remove the timing cover in the future. Good that gasket to pan the seal is still good.

I really wish I could do Drag Cartel DIC.
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Good start to a new day. Removed the crankpulley by carefully measuring where the oem backer wrench's correct placement to counter the 19mm breaker bar. The Crank didn't even shutter and came off with ease for 181lb.

Removed the timing cover bolts. The fresh sealant job I did does not want to come off easily lol... I will get it. Because I used a K motor oil pan gasket I put sealant on it incase I needed to remove the timing cover in the future. Good that gasket to pan the seal is still good.

I really wish I could do Drag Cartel DIC.
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Motor looks very clean inside 👍 sorry to hear about the troubles with the header. For the price it should come finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #379 ·
Motor looks very clean inside 👍 sorry to hear about the troubles with the header. For the price it should come finished.
I does look clean, I was impressed when I originally took it apart. The PRB cams that were in there looked much better than the Z1 cams I just put in here. The biggest problem of the header is the company is trying to play it off they have fabrication skills on the same level as other companies. The fitment on the collectors were lined up correctly leaving "lips". Your right they should have fused the tube to the flange for $800. After inspecting all of the welds I found repairs needed. Keep in mind I bought this header a long time ago and did not same anything about online to have class. At some point I have to disconnect the class associated with SSR to make room to give class to others, that is forgiveness. Had I payed for a $300 dollar from them things would be different.
 
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