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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Today this morning. 9 30 21
That pig stye of an engine bay is decreased once. Not bad. Check out the trade tips I gave with the scribes around where the ps rack supports go back

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Ps fluid brake fluid be gone...

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Now I am going to get it grinding dust dirty 9 30 21
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
I just need to box this out and clean the rest of soundproofing with heat gun and one more wipe with dry towel. There needs to be a gusset plate under it and once the gusset strip goes under i can make a final trim on the cross bar to bring it tight. i always cut long one shaping projects like this. Measure 3 times cut twice as I say
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The dead pedal side well I am not sure about. Thinking of drills holes in it for weight reduction
 

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Discussion Starter · #346 ·
I have been removing the undercoating in the wheel wells on the both sides of the seams. These marked spots will be stitch welded with 1/4" long x 3/32" width welds. 1st they will be tacked. The best tool for removing this stuff is a stone bit (bur bit) with a straight grinder. Before the welding takes place in the underside of the wheel wells and on the opposite site around the strut towers, again am welding additional bracing to prevent distortion. Before I was tacking around these areas.with the same bar welded on the other side and i still do not let it get hot. I have to final weld prepped around the strut towers now by grinding the tacks down almost flattish with the start and at stop sections tapered down for better weld blending. The blending done wrong will only create weak welds by not breaking the metal down in the puddle well on starts and stops. again leave the cut long. one of the cross bars is a 1.25" chromoly pipe that was left long to be used as a brace during welding processes.

Where the clips will attach to the strut tower I am adding gusset strips to spread the contact better. At my old work we would drill one hole in the gusset plate to allow pressure from heat to vent, then can be plugged on full pen welds that trap air from complete sealant venting while welding. while welding at the last section it would get very hot fast, then the last part of the weld would blow out from the vent. I am not inserting a plug on a thin gusset plate. I will leave a hole for heat venting and water draining at the lowest point. i doubt i will seal weld it anyway. just wanted to share that story with you.
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there is still more paint and undercoating to remove before welding. i need to use a needle cone bur bit w/ straight grinder to get inside the deeper hollows of metal meeting areas. i prefer the Kobolt battery pack from Lowes w/ two batteries. i am puzzled how the bushings inside the tool do not wear hardly like others. i can fix Metabo, Dewalt angle grinders 100%. i would fix 5-6 a day sometimes at my old work. during surgery recoveries I had to find ways to sit down all day for 6-8 months. i would fix tools that most people toss and it is just a simple brush change.

i learned how to fix welders, 440A service items, 440A custom harnesses, Sub-Arc welder that is two stories tall, I have been shocked by 440 service. luckly when i was a kid i was shocked a whole bunch so i was used to it. and on through life i have been shocked by 220A service, 120V service. but 440 will throw a screwdriver 30 ft from your hand and made my arm hurt for a few hours. be careful kids, leave it to the pros and use lock out tag out tags and locks at work. my problem was i was distracted and was doing the same actions 200 times in a row inspecting 440 service equipment because it will loosen from heat cycles, they have to be checked monthly and color coded by colored electrical tape marking each month. all businesses should adopt this practice and inspect their electrical cords, connections, and equipment at their place of work. it is simple and an easy task to split up for each employee then rotate. was this my fault absolutely it was. when doing these tasks no matter how loud it is in the room etc. one still has to center themselves, just like driving a big ass truck. you get the picture, my point.

Not all people where not shocked as a kid a whole bunch, so electrical shocks kill them 1st go. your welcome world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
Speed factory tucked radiator with custom radiator liner. It absolutely centralizes air to it blocking and lining it for protection and aero

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
Here come the gusset plates at the lower B pillar. These will tie into and under the jdm type R aluminum lower B pillar brace giving that something to really bolt into.
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While I am here I will weld in gusset plates for the main hoops.

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
what i was thinking doing with the above typer brace is making the template aluminum instead of welding a steel one. i would have to weld studs in or find a way to pinch the aluminum plate to the frame behind the ABS seat belt garbage...

that way it could bolt into the top of the typer bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
I am debating on converting this 05 06 rear bumper lip to my 02 04 bumper. Mainly because I am using aspec rear spoiler and mini deck lid.

Or I can switch to the 05 06 tail lights and not have fab anything.
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Won't have to paint the bumper. Just the aspec spoiler and deck lid
You made a huge step forward in the engine bay 🆙. That cooler looks like you want to drive DD too? What comes next into the bay?
well i had no clue this cooler was going to come about. i just took it home to see if it by chance would fit with little to no modification, and I was right about it being an easy things to install and remove based on seasons or if the water temp gauge says the temp is good. my car will see some DD activities to be able to enjoy the car and stretch it's legs so to speak...

i have not disclosed to the world yet which car the cooler comes from. i do not plan on it either, except KBuilt and Yourself.

the bay is almost done. the last things going into the bay are a chromoly cross bar that will fully welded to the chassis and under the ps rack assembly. welding gusset plates around where the ps rack supports meet directly to the front side frame acura pn# 60810-S6M-L00ZZ to strengthen the front side frame's connection to the rest of the chassis at the bottom of the lower dashboard. About 8"- 10" in front of the ps rack on the lower front side frame, I am fabricating a stout stiffener plate at the frame's weakest and skinniest section. i will post some pics of this later (within 24 hrs) of how i plan to improve the chassis's rigidity and the front section of the engine bay's strut tower bases.

I have some other sections of the engine bay i want to get support brackets for the swirl tank, header tank, and the upper dashboard i want to make some sleeves in it for the fuel lines of the fuel filter. the fuel filter will stay freezing in the winter in the cowl (windshield wiper area), correctly stated upper dashboard section and will get air in the summer time. i think that is all that is left for the engine bay, except for the duct work assemblies i have planned to feed the intake filter box and engine bay cooling duct work.


Frame, R Front Side - Acura (60810-S6M-L00ZZ)
Housing, R Front Shock Absorber - Acura (60650-S6M-A00ZZ)
Cross-Member Set, Front (Lower) - Acura (04603-S6M-A00ZZ)
 

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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
getting busy on the new head gasket and new valve guides (oversized) for service intake and exhaust while we are at it to make this head seal free and back to new. i also ordered Supertech Ti retainers. i already had new k20a2 spring seats and new k20a2 steel retainers. since this valvetrain will be serviced again within 20,000 miles i wanted to see how the light retainers worked with PRC cams, k20a2 dual spring valve springs, stock cleaned valves (which lost 1g-1.4g of build up on each valve.

parts list coming
Part Number Part Name
95701-06030-08 Bolt, Flange (6X30)
91333-PNA-003 O-Ring (15X1.9)
95701-06014-08 Bolt, Flange (6X14)
91302-PNA-004 O-Ring, Chain Case
91311-PRB-A00 O-Ring (13.5X3.5)
94050-10080 Nut, Flange (10MM)
90051-PNA-000 Bolt, Special (6X28)
91307-PNA-003 O-Ring (9.5X1.9)
93404-06012-07 Bolt-Washer (6X12)
19322-PCX-003 O-Ring (43.8X3.1)
95701-08016-08 Bolt, Flange (8X16)
12251-PRB-A01 Gasket, Cylinder Head
90017-PCX-013 Bolt-Washer (16X49)
95701-08065-08 Bolt, Flange (8X65)
12204-PNA-305 Guide, Valve (Over Size)
14781-PRB-A02 Cotter, Valve (Service)

i am breaking the engine today to be ready and start to get the valve guides out. i need this car to be running like Forrest Gump breaking out of his leg braces with Jenny in the driveway. took you back didn't it lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #354 · (Edited)
We have been kindly blessed with a North Easter' storm here and have had 5 straight days of rain killing progress on the chassis build and the engine bay punch list.. Luckily I sprayed a coat coats of 3-36 to the steel I cleaned and was welding on. Now the 6th day with no sun, surface spot rusting will be on the clean up of things to do now. I am sure when the sun comes out tomorrow you can bet your bottom dollar I will be cleaning rust. I saw spot rust on the chromoly pipe I tacked in the engine bay. Scotchbrite pads will remove it and a SS wire brush on chassis surfaces. 5-6 days of rain blows.

The new bolts on the PS steering rack assembly rock. I am glad I made that purchase and cleaned up the rack fasteners and supports.

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These tacks will get flushed an stitched 1/2" long max
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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
This bad boy removes undercoating quickly in order to do the wheel well seams. Weld preps the area in one pass. I prefer the double cut bur bits, I have about 15 different ones. I still have access to these type of cool tools and about any consumable on the market. I used to order over $750,000 each year of welding, fabricating, and other expensive "consumables" from McMaster Carr, Arc3, and others. I just have to ask. Honestly I prefer asking to rumage through the recycling bins there when i have the chance. one day my buddy gave around 60ft of expensive 6061 schedule 40-80 piping ranging from 1/2"-3.5" dia. i have more aluminum pipe, plate, 4"x2" tubing, C channel, 90 angle, than any man could ever ask for. But always, I have a weakness for the recycle bins. I have this cool 1" wall thickness 6"x6" aluminum tube drop piece about a 1.5' long.

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Discussion Starter · #356 · (Edited)
Some new things in.

I going to try something else with the valve train goals:

  • Supertech Ti Valve Spring Retainers
  • Supertech Cotters because oem cotter are on backorder eta unknown or back order status lifted
  • going back to 02 PCX AP1 valve Spring dual assembly instead of oem single spring
  • new oem valve Spring seats
  • new oem valve seals A & B

I am on a part search a equivalent replacement for the 2002 intake inner valve Spring that is discontinued. The exhaust inner valve Spring is still available new for the 2002. I want to add new oem PCX AP1 intake valve Springs , inner intake Spring, oem exhaust dual valve springs for the storage parts. When the oem cotter become available I want to know.

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
With the Speedfactory tucked radiator on the dc5, here are the images to see what things will end up for dc5 users. I mounted my radiator differently that other have by I am using the side brackets to custom into fasteners as suggested by Speedfactory. Plus I am making a radiator stay bar to fasten and apply typically radiator support brackets, though I am making it so the support bar manually adjusts downward pressure to the radiator by means of tabs and a rubber anti- vibration post mount. Underneath of it all I am using Diver's anti-vibration made for their heavy oxygen tanks to sit on instead of being slammed or grinding into the boats Fiberglass floor. I used these to go all the way across the bottom of the radiator where the oem radiator sits into. The new radiator will be vibration proof for the most part where there will be natural pressure against it on the bottom and on the top pushing down.

I have the oem style cool plate for the radiator if needed. From the design of the cool plate it looks like the radiator would stay very clean and protected from water or road grime from the underside and from the vertical sides.
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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
Head Gasket just arrived. It is new just the oem wrapper was opened and no way of telling how long. Ebay can be sketch and I want to review images of a brand new head gasket never removed from the packaging. I will post images of the other side so both pics will be close ups so you guys can see what I see

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Here is my beloved Earl's Performance-6AN high quality fuel check valve. This one will be mounted at the fuel rail. Luckily this Earl's check valve has their logo attached unlike the last one I bought from them.

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Here are the images of the head gasket I scored from ebay. It came hella fast. What do you guys think of the condition? The seal was broken and one side made contact with cardboard. I am not trying to say anything just giving the best possible description of how the gasket was shipped stored etc.

Does everything look OK to you all? @KBuilt @LotusElise @Lotus @Bjorn . Thank You in advance for looking at these photos and conforming the head gasket looks good to go on this side. Again thank you to anyone that offers advice from this website.

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I am assuming that "brown hatching" is typical and in fact is a type of sealing method that helps it seal on the 1st heat cycle. I googled images of both sides of this head gasket and found two images that showed this coloring was typical. The image could not be zoomed in as good as my images though. I think I am good, still wanted to ask
 

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Here are the images of the head gasket I scored from ebay. It came hella fast. What do you guys think of the condition? The seal was broken and one side made contact with cardboard. I am not trying to say anything just giving the best possible description of how the gasket was shipped stored etc.

Does everything look OK to you all? @KBuilt @LotusElise @Lotus @Bjorn . Thank You in advance for looking at these photos and conforming the head gasket looks good to go on this side. Again thank you to anyone that offers advice from this website.

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I am assuming that "brown hatching" is typical and in fact is a type of sealing method that helps it seal on the 1st heat cycle. I googled images of both sides of this head gasket and found two images that showed this coloring was typical. The image could not be zoomed in as good as my images though. I think I am good, still wanted to ask
I would say the HG is all good brother. Run that sh!t
 
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