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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
New parts for the shifter mechanism assembly rebuild came from the "overnight(s) shipping". I will edit images and post of the worn shift arm, shift lever comp. and interlock so you can see potentially what these look like from grinding gears and not shifting correctly. The previous owner was responsible, I have 30 years experience with manuals including commercial dump trucks. Potentially your shift arm and interlock may look like mine. Speedfactory has created a stronger version of the shift arm because of the way they wear and sometimes fail. The interlock bearing works against the gears of the shift arm by design. The interlock shaft bearing will become compressed and will destroy the shift arm teeth.

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
Step by step your project is getting a sculpture. I am looking forward to see your engine married with the chassis :). By the way, where is your engine actually?
thank you for the kind words. The build is at the point where I need to get it into the chassis, to keep production going forward the most effectively. The engine and transmission are luckily inside a small section of the shop.

I ran into a problem I need to PM you about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Mugen Stainless Steel 2-ply Head Gasket Instructions
Please someone help translate. Thank you in advance.
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Please someone help translate. Thank you in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 · (Edited)
Step by step your project is getting a sculpture. I am looking forward to see your engine married with the chassis :). By the way, where is your engine actually?
The engine is inside of the shop, may dad made space for me. I have a few more things to do in the engine bay like install studs in the strut tower (front) that have circle weld plugs so the bolt has feet tig welded to it. After double checking the coilover tophat one more time, I can will drive two holes in each strut tower then flux core (heavy tacks) for the underside fusion of the bolts. The topside will get flush welded, then the bolts will accept the 05-06 DC5 Type S OEM upper front strut bar with out altering the bar and using correctly. You know what I am going to weld a plate one the top site of the strut towers tomorrow.... Stay tuned for pictures (y)

My upper dashboard, cowl area, front upper strut towers, and where the vertical bulkheads meet the front frame & the transmission engine mount area with be rigid as a cup racer. What I found interesting about this build is after being the industry I saw the bones of this build differently. I know what spot welds will do for a chassis for road course or performance in general. Honda of Japan really...... sent the USA a weak fraction of the DC5 Integra. And that is where I come into play. For little weight gain I am going to make this chassis 450% stronger than what it did coming off the factory line. If not more. Stay tuned this ain't over....

I have to do more cutting and welding in the back base of the engine bay. Then the engine is going in. The way things are going by next Wednesday I should be ready to install the engine, test fit header & megaphone, fab the 1st half of the exhaust, begin cutting & tunneling under the chassis to tuck the exhaust. The DC5 is a dragger.... Without tunneling the only option is the K-Tuned 3" oval mid section. It is going the wrong direction for me. I want to give the K20 as much straight no bend flow for as long as possible for to push the whole 9,000 rpm out lol...

We will see cause I trying to cut the chassis up with a .45 wheel. I am working on the bracing stat tuned...

You know the K20 needs the 3rd Power Band to be fast NA... 😂 😂 😂 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
The K24 has just has the big pop before the 3rd powerband lol...

I like both of them. I want to simple build a K24 in a few years at least . Or sleeve bore 89mm the little brother
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 ·
Working on the upper dash board. It.was either cut the oem strut bar and redesign it. Or knotch the cowl/dashboard area. Room's made... didn't have to move brake lines.

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Discussion Starter · #315 ·
How to use a 3" SS pipe to fabricate a knotch out. The gap is just right, when the pipe is split at 0 and 180 it will spring out to meet the gaps or can be formed to. You wanna have some gap there to work with or you will have to keep trimming the pipe.

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This is how to draw straight lines on pipe.
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Make the cut but leave the ends intact. Then cut 80% through and stress relief the other side with ball hammer. Pipe with spring out of shape when cut like this. Do this and it won't lose shape. It can be formed later.
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Discussion Starter · #319 ·
Making official studs for the 05 06 types oem upper strut bar because the 02 04 does not have.

SS plug with way over rated studs from drop anchors

Who says flux core is Sloppy ???

I prefer 75 25 gas shield and 309 combo flux wire. These tack welds show that. Never rust either because 309 has SS in it

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