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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
Very nice looking header @Them Witches. I would be interested in the lengths of the primaries and the secondaries. Looks like 450 and 380 mm...would you be so kind to measure it for me?
Thank you Markus. I will have the measurements for this afternoon. I am getting ready to take my daughter somewhere.
I will also give you the I.D.'s , O.D.'s and collector measurements.

I hope you are having a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
This bothers me as well. I try to let it drain as long as I can but there’s always some in the filter that pours over the backside of everything 🤬
You should look into a oil filter relocation kit. I was worried the HAMP filter would be too small for my Blox Oil Filter relocation kit. However I just got two Honda (Fram) filters and the seal ring on them are the same exact dia as the HAMP filters. I mean some people would say that it is costly to put a relocation kit the way I did with AN fittings and an Earl's check valve. It was costly for sure. I just go about things differently than most these days.

10 years ago I would have worked this build completely different. I would have bought cams, valvetrain, etc. without addressing mechanical systems, new sensors all around, and focusing on reliability. I went overkill on AN fittings because they are pimp af for many reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 · (Edited)
I wanted to share the part numbers for a few more parts I just bought. I bought a 5 piece terminal removal tool with rubber handles and I picked up a 59 piece terminal removal tool auto wire retractor connector pin harness set USA.

The 59 piece set's part number # 1242119895102 sourced on Ebay.

I have high quality black shrink wrap, high temp black sleeve, and a few different additional wire black mesh sleeves. I would call what I am about to do is a "poor man's wire harness". It will look much better than the OEM engine harness and charge harness.

Something else I did for this build is pay attention to how I can reduce wear & tear on parts and protection from the weather if possible. For the -6AN fuel line from the fuel tank and the -4AN return fuel line, I purchased heat shrink for both lines. I got enough heat shrink to cover both fuel lines completely from the fuel tank to the engine bay. I chose black and red heat shrink - Red for the supply and black for the return line.

It looks like I may need to get different larger fuel injectors, in order use both 93oct. and E85. The RDX 410cc injectors need to be Bosch 650cc dual spray pattern type. I need to talk more with LotusElise about this and talk with my tuner Monday regards to this topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Finally, today the Power Steering Rack assembly was removed and serviced. After tying off and securing the steering wheels position at 12 &6 by rope, I began by removing the two lock bolts holding the yoke and column. Next, the dust shield comes off and there are (3) nuts and (2) bolts that have to be removed.

The supply line and return lines need to be removed. After that, the steering rack pulls out easily. Absolutely easy work when the engine and transmission are removed.and out of the way. I found it very easy to remove the old rack bushings & steering gear box mounting collars by using this technique. Take a bullpen and insert it into the collar and simply wiggle back and forth to loosen the bushing & collar. Next, use a flat head screwdriver to pry b/t the bushing and collar gently. The collars will remove themselves will a little pulling by hand.

By removing one band clamp and retracting the
Boot Set, I was able to remove the OEM slider without taking the boot set off or taking th rack apart. I used multi-purpose grease to add a good amount of grease into and all around the cylinder. After greasing the SHG rack slider and inserting alinement collars in the slider, I was able to install the slider the same way it was removed. Once it was lined up correctly, I test fitted the inner tie rod bracket by bolting it through the slider into the cylinder. This helped seat the slider.

The gearbox support brackets were rusty so I wire brushed both brackets and wire brushed the both steering box stiffeners. Once they were prepped, I painted all four with black wrinkle. Finally, clear coated them in attempt to keep the paint shine as long as possible.

While they were drying, I got to installing Mugen PS steering rack hard bushings. These bushings are extremely hard with zero flex to them. There are two ways to start these onto the rack collars : a vise or rubber mallet. After greasing the bushings and the collars they can be married. Once a hard bushings is started on the collar, drive or press the bushing flush to the outside edge of the collar. Next install it into the rack and insert another hard bushing on the other side. I used a Besy Clamp like a vise and slowly pressed both bushing and collar at the same time. This worked perfectly to install everything correctly.

Once I receive a new steering grommet, I can put the steering rack assembly back in. In the meantime and the rack out of the way, I can gets some more stitch welding done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Here are pics of today's work :
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Tread Asphalt


Before removing the rack support brackets, I scribed marks to their locations so they can be put back where they belong or where the factory installed them.
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Racks out baby lol...
Property Blue Wood Plant Neighbourhood


OEM Slider out without taking the rack apart. I forgot to take a picture of the SMG slider. SMG make a beautiful part that fits with a tight tolerance. Nice part SMG.
Wood Automotive tire Gas Machine Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Slider bracket cleaned up with new mount bolts and O-rings. @KBuilt you like those fresh and clean bolts lol..?
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Steering wheel Hood Steering part


This is the easiest way to get the Mugen Hard Bushings. Besy Clamps are amazing, I used them pipefitting and welding.
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Water Wood Plant
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
The work on this steering rack will be felt. What a great investment and the perfect time to add/re-grease the rack.

Wood Crankset Bicycle chain Bicycle part Gear


Painted rack stiffeners and rack support brackets. With new bolts and nuts, this rack will look much better.

Automotive tire Road surface Plant Asphalt Bumper


Now with clear coat
Hand Leg Automotive tire Plant Snout
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
Painted parts look great, not as great as those new oem bolts tho ;) glad to see you’re getting some stuff done on this fine Sunday 👍👍
Thank you brother. If the new steering grommet arrived already I would have pushed to get the rack back in. All good, I just moved over to something different to close out the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
Thanks, I appreciate your effort.
@LotusElise Alright good buddy I have the measurements you were asking about.

Speed Star Racing 4-2-1 Race Header

304 SS wall thickness = 1.5mm - 1.7mm

-- 1st section of primaries = 44mm O.D. & 152.4mm length

-- 2nd section of primaries (step up) = 48.75mm O.D. & 184.15mm length

-- 1st collector length = 107.95mm & 53.95mm O.D. at the exit

-- Secondary piping = 52.37mm O.D. & 212.725mm length

-- 2nd collector length = 114.3mm & 56.42mm O.D. at the exit

-- Header Exit I.D. = 61.83mm

-- Header Exit O.D. = 63.53mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
I am going to get to work on customizing the OEM fuel rail. There are (3 qty.) -6AN male weld-o-let bungs to be installed. I am still on the fence mounting the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold by means on an anti-vibration hanger. I do not want to install the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel pressure regulator nor mount it on the fuel rail.
 

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96 civic HX K24a
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Here we are back on Sunday again. I am going to get to work on customizing the OEM fuel rail. There are (3 qty.) -6AN male weld-o-let bungs to be installed. I am still on the fence mounting the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold by means on an anti-vibration hanger. I do not want to install the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel pressure regulator nor mount it on the fuel rail.
I have a couple spare oem fuel rails I’ve been saving for hopefully some cool DIY , will be taking notes 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Damn I feel like I am dying on this build. It turned from "it will only take 2 months" into a year very quickly lol... I still have a ways to go. It is my fault for creating the work load so whatever..

As I was taking apart the shift mechanism, I noticed how bad of shape the shift arm, interlock, and the shift lever were in. This is was due to miss shifting from the previous owner. Instead of just replacing the shift springs, mainshaft brake spring, select lock return spring, and select lock cam the entire assembly is being rebuilt. I overnighted the parts I need.

The transmission just got Hybrid Racing Detent springs, balls, bolts, and seal washers. New mount studs, interlock bolt, interlock, oem shift arm, and every part in the shift mechanism is replaced including MTEC race shift springs. New clutch release fork, release fork setting spring, clutch release bearing, release fork boot, change wire stay, and I am replacing one of the trans hangers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
I have a couple spare oem fuel rails I’ve been saving for hopefully some cool DIY , will be taking notes 😅
Well today is your lucky day for pics on what I am working on. I never got around to working on the rail the other day. Check back at the end of the day.
 
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