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Thanks brother, it means alot.
I am installing the sway bar back on the car. Will be sure to take some pics. Today is a mixture of tasks :

-- remove sound deadening
-- cont. fab on interior lower A-Pillar & lower firewall bracing
-- fab upper strut tower plates
-- fab rear strut tower plates & gusseting
-- fab front upper tower strut bar
-- install front and rear sway bars & new Hardrace sway bar bushings, OEM subframe brace (after paining subframe)
-- remove wheel spacers all around, remove rear rotors, rear OEM coils, remove rear trailing arm and replace trailing arm bushings

That is a strong list of tasks -- it is 6:40am I am heading out to the car
That is quite the list lol good luck πŸ‘ it’s about to be 4am here and I’m going to get an hour on call of duty and an hour in the garage before work πŸ˜‚
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 · (Edited)
05-06 Acura RSX Type S 26.4mm using a Hardrace 26mm sway bar bushing for a 99-00 Civic Si.

The rear one is from the 05-06 Acura RSX Type 21mm using a Hardrace 21mm sway bar bushing for a 06-11 Civic Si.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I like your home place, looks nicely and the freedome to place the cars were you want to place it. Here neighbours likely would have called the police seeing you had pulled the engine in your green ground and my dropped some oil on it.
 

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I like your home place, looks nicely and the freedome to place the cars were you want to place it. Here neighbours likely would have called the police seeing you had pulled the engine in your green ground and my dropped some oil on it.
I understand wanting to protect the earth but the cops over a little project area ??
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I understand wanting to protect the earth but the cops over a little project area ??
Sorry, I didn't want looking it a hidden offend. It is a comparison, as here in Germany a different mindset is around. Majority of Germans supported retriet of nuclear Power and Coal Power, while non ofthe these supporters could have granted an fully available power grid. Cracy guys. If you run today a old Diesel engine you get observed and get comments. If you you buy an New one also. Its gettingmore and more a cancel culture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 · (Edited)
Is this south TX or already FL?
Hampton, VA.
Brother I worked on my car in this heat for the past 7 days straight and I came down with heat exhaustion yesterday, crashed out for 20 hours. I am taking outside stuff inside today, I have inside things I can do I will most like plan and stuff :sleep:. I am going to post the SSR header breakdown unboxing with some K-Kuned comparisons later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 · (Edited)
Finishing the chassis work in the engine bay and front strut towers, and the cowl area is almost done. Which means the engine cab come back in to play. Well course after some painting is done. Today is just too hot and humid 96 F and 110 heat index.

Started working on the -
Dashboard (Upper) - Acura (61100-S6M-L00ZZ)
  • Dashboard (Upper) - Acura (61100-S6M-L00ZZ)
  • Dashboard (Upper) - Acura (61100-S6M-L00ZZ)
  • Dashboard (Upper) - Acura (61100-S6M-L00ZZ)
Dashboard (Upper) - Acura (61100-S6M-L00ZZ)


The way Honda has it, the bar is braced twice by bolting to two 90 degree brackets that are bolted through the upper dashboard into 90 degree brackets that are magically factory welded into the dashboard. There was an extreme amount of flex in this "dashboard area" completely across the chassis. Well not anymore.... I am using 309LT1-1 SPEC. AWS: A5.22 (309LT1-1/4) 0.035 309 Wire for bonding Stainless Steel to Carbon Steel. Heat # F309LPA004191 made by WA. Alloy CO. I am using 75/25 weld gas (75% Argon x 25% CO2) with a flux core. Makes a pretty weld and does not rust. $50 per each 2lb roll.

I welded around and into the 90 degree brackets inside of the upper dashboard. Then added a 0.75" SS schedule 40 pipe between those two brackets.
Now when the OEM upper front strut bar bolts to the upper dashboard, it is a solid connection with not a bit flex. The outer ends of the upper dashboard are welded to the strut towers with enough weld bead to lift the car with... lol Stitch welding around the strut towers is just what the name means " a stitch ". The shock absorber housings are tied into the strut towers with heavy stitches, that will be beefed up a little later when I get more 75/25 weld gas. Instead of buy a "fender brace" from an after market company, my fenders are welded together by pipe bracing with gussets and the shock absorbers are stitch welded. I have decided to weld a pipe into the bottom side of the shock absorbers. Things are coming along quickly now.

I want to strengthen how and where the front sway bar is located on the DC5's front subframe. This is the last time I will have to address it before the engine goes back in.
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Sleeve Grey Auto part Denim Automotive tire
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heat index has 106-112 F. standard temp 94 F. Everyday I am working on the car is a wonderful day
Hampton, VA.
Brother I worked on my car in this heat for the past 7 days straight and I came down with heat exhaustion yesterday, crashed out for 20 hours. I am taking outside stuff inside today, I have inside things I can do I will most like plan and stuff :sleep:. I am going to post the SSR header breakdown unboxing with some K-Kuned comparisons later today.
Ya I thought I was cookin out there today but it sounds like you had it worse πŸ˜… hope you didn’t push too hard and we’re able to get some rest. The stitch work looks awesome on the chassis. Will you still be able to see the raw welds later/after paint or do you grind them flat ? I think it looks cool the way it is. Great progress πŸ‘πŸ»
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Ya I thought I was cookin out there today but it sounds like you had it worse πŸ˜… hope you didn’t push too hard and we’re able to get some rest. The stitch work looks awesome on the chassis. Will you still be able to see the raw welds later/after paint or do you grind them flat ? I think it looks cool the way it is. Great progress πŸ‘πŸ»
I am going to leave them raw and paint them black. Some of them I will use a sanding die on to smooth. A certain section will go down flush so I can make a gusset plate lay flat. Like where a 1.25" chromoly pipe will connect the upper front strut towers tomorrow...lol I can only tack it up though until my chromoly weld wire comes in. Tomorrow I am also going to adjust the OEM upper front strut bar some to give my oil filter relocation kit more room to look smoother lol.. add (2) extra bolt on each sides of the front strut towers to completely bolt the oem bar the way it was intended. The front subframe has areas I want to beef up and I want to put a heavy coat of paint on it.

I am almost out of the engine bay area which seems to be the most demanding. I am hoping the weld store will have my "correct' tig torch tomorrow. Correct is always the best kind. And if they do I will refill my 75/25 bottle and refill my argon bottle after I finish using it up in the morning. I need to turn loose inside the cabin and stitch away while jumping around. Keep things cool
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
Lucky I must be, I was able to order the last set in stock at rhdjapan.com of Mugen Hard PS rack bushings. They should be here in less than 5 days, I paid extra in shipping for them. I have read very good reviews on them and actually how hard the really are, they have zero flex. The power steering rack and P.S. Pump work consists of the following :

-- flushing all P.S. fluid and replacing with new
-- K-Tuned P.S. Pump Relocation Kit
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (12.7x1.8) PN# (91347-PLA-003)
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (16.7x1.8) PN# (91347-PAA-A01)
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (13.0x1.9) PN# (91345-RDA-A01)
-- SHG solid steering rack slider
-- rack riser bracket bolts (90455-S5A-003)
-- Riser bolt O-rings (11.5x1.5) PN# (53662-S5A-003)
-- Riser Bolt Lock washer PN# (53535-S5A-003)
-- P.S. Boot Set Bellows band PN# (53449-S5A-003)
-- Steering Rack Stiffener B. Flange Nuts (10mm) PN# (90450-S6M-000)
-- Steering Rack Stiffener A. Gear Box mounting bolts PN# (90108-S5A-000)
-- P.S. Gearbox R. & L. Bracket, Bolts (8x25) PN# (90801-S5A-000)
-- Mugen Hard P.S. steering rack bushings
-- K-Tuned Adjustable Inner Tie Rods
-- Inner Tie Rod Lock Washers PN# (53536-S5A-900)
-- Tie Rod Hex Nuts PN# (90301-S5A-003)
-- Hardrace Outer Tie Rods PN# (8144)
-- Castle Nut Split Pins (3.0x22) PN# (94201-30220)
 

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Lucky I must be, I was able to order the last set in stock at rhdjapan.com of Mugen Hard PS rack bushings. They should be here in less than 5 days, I paid extra in shipping for them. I have read very good reviews on them and actually how hard the really are, they have zero flex. The power steering rack and P.S. Pump work consists of the following :

-- flushing all P.S. fluid and replacing with new
-- K-Tuned P.S. Pump Relocation Kit
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (12.7x1.8) PN# (91347-PLA-003)
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (16.7x1.8) PN# (91347-PAA-A01)
-- P.S. Pump O-ring (13.0x1.9) PN# (91345-RDA-A01)
-- SHG solid steering rack slider
-- Tewiga steering rack riser bracket
-- rack riser bracket bolts (90455-S5A-003)
-- Riser bolt O-rings (11.5x1.5) PN# (53662-S5A-003)
-- Riser Bolt Lock washer PN# (53535-S5A-003)
-- P.S. Boot Set Bellows band PN# (53449-S5A-003)
-- Steering Rack Stiffener B. Flange Nuts (10mm) PN# (90450-S6M-000)
-- Steering Rack Stiffener A. Gear Box mounting bolts PN# (90108-S5A-000)
-- P.S. Gearbox R. & L. Bracket, Bolts (8x25) PN# (90801-S5A-000)
-- Mugen Hard P.S. steering rack bushings
-- K-Tuned Adjustable Inner Tie Rods
-- Inner Tie Rod Lock Washers PN# (53536-S5A-900)
-- Tie Rod Hex Nuts PN# (90301-S5A-003)
-- Hardrace Outer Tie Rods PN# (8144)
-- Castle Nut Split Pins (3.0x22) PN# (94201-30220)
You must have a storage unit for just new oem parts πŸ˜…
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
Very nice progress here man!

Do you think the broken weld will do it's job (s. pre-last picture)?
Hey Markus I am sorry for being rude and not thanking you for your compliment on the progress. I am a bit distracted. This past week I discovered a growth in my sinus cavity that is abnormal and concerning. It is aggressive and developed rather quickly, I would guess it is about 25mm in length and 15mm in width. Monday I will find out the exact rush date of the doctor's appointment. I have been trying to pretend like it is not going on but it is happening. This past week I have been spending time with my daughter and left the build alone. Tomorrow, Sunday, I am going to get back to work on the build to keep my mind occupied as my daughter went to visit with her mom for a week.
 

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Hey Markus I am sorry for being rude and not thanking you for your compliment on the progress. I am a bit distracted. This past week I discovered a growth in my sinus cavity that is abnormal and concerning. It is aggressive and developed rather quickly, I would guess it is about 25mm in length and 15mm in width. Monday I will find out the exact rush date of the doctor's appointment. I have been trying to pretend like it is not going on but it is happening. This past week I have been spending time with my daughter and left the build alone. Tomorrow, Sunday, I am going to get back to work on the build to keep my mind occupied as my daughter went to visit with her mom for a week.
I hope you hear relieving news on your visit. Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
You must have a storage unit for just new oem parts πŸ˜…
KBuilt you are a trip. In fact I do have a small area of the house dedicated to oem parts. I wanted to say sorry to you for not thanking you for your most recent compliment on the build progress. I have been distracted mentally since a little over a week ago I discovered a abnormal growth in my sinus cavity. It is about 1" in length and 1/2" in width and I am going to see a doctor this week about it. It seems I can't win for trying and it is always some weird shit happening with my health.

So away from the gloomy stuff lol... I followed your lead and ordered (5) oem exhaust manifold studs and lock nuts. They came in the mail today. I have two separate orders coming from the oem parts substance dealer that can't hurry up enough lol... They are seriously holding up progress on the engine bay and my deadline to install the engine and transmission.

From AFHkparts.com I ordered (4 qty.) JDM HAMP RTA Honda Oil Filters @ $6.99 each. The shipping was $26.02 making the total $53.98, which is not bad for a performance oil filter that increases oil pressure by 5psi and they have a built in check valve system that adjusts as the filter wears. Mugen oil filters are $30 each which is too high for me.

This past week I have laid off the build and just spent as much one on one daughter time that I could. She just left a few hours ago to spend the next week with her mother, so I am going to jump back into the build tomorrow to keep my head busy.

I am putting in an order to Summit Racing my other parts substance dealer lol...

-- Vibrant Performance #11191 Billet Al -10AN Black anodized check valve (for the oil filter relocation return line in case the HAMP oil filter's built in check valve should fail to operate 100%) $41.95

-- Vibrant Performance #10734 -10AN, 90 degree AN to AN fitting (connects to the Blox oil filter block off plate, then the #11191 check valve connects to this fitting, then a -10AN swivel hose end fitting to the check valve) $19.95

-- Earl's Performance #997112ERL -12AN Al weld-in make fitting (for my surge/swirl tank) $13.95

-- Design Engineering #DEI 010420 Heat sleeve 1.5" dia x 36" length (to insulate my oil filter relocation supply & return oil lines) $24.99

I love to shop with Summit because any order over $100 is free shipping. To me that is like getting a free item or free fitting if my order is at $75 because shipping on $75 would be more than $100. I have ordered from them so much they give me 2-3 day shipping regardless if I do the cheapest ground shipping rate.
 
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