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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...I am going to modify it, remove the 2-hole flange, and weld a V-band in it's place. If the slip joints are not tight I will weld them.
I would recommend to move the wideband thread onto a post location too. Just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
I would recommend to move the wideband thread onto a post location too. Just my two cents.
I bought ceramic paint for the header. It was $75 for a tiny can just enough to paint the header and maybe some more piping. I really need to take the paint's instructions to heart and understand the exact amount needed for the proper coating.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I bought ceramic paint for the header. It was $75 for a tiny can just enough to paint the header and maybe some more piping. I really need to take the paint's instructions to heart and understand the exact amount needed for the proper coating.
Not bad. Would a pulverization with that not be more stable then to brush it? Anyway, this helps to keep more energy in the exhaust gas, shifts the supporting engine speeds to the right, because Mach 1 is reached at higher speed of sounds.

BTW, does it mean you will keep the wideband location 😉?
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Right
Not bad. Would a pulverization with that not be more stable then to brush it? Anyway, this helps to keep more energy in the exhaust gas, shifts the supporting engine speeds to the right, because Mach 1 is reached at higher speed of sounds.

BTW, does it mean you will keep the wideband location 😉?
I am going to move the wideband weld-o-let (bung,threads) after the header on the megaphone I will be using with the header. I am going to fabricate the megaphone like a test pipe with V-Bands on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 · (Edited)
I ran out of weld wire yesterday. I just ordered some more. None of the photos I uploaded are finished. I will upload finish pics. I jump around on the chassis to keep the head down. Keeps warping to a nil. Since I am out of the weld wire need to keep using, I am going to stick weld with 309 rods. The welding rods are made of 308 SS and a small percent of A70 carbon steel, so those two different metals will bond together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Great 🆙

Are you going to test some different designs?
I am I going to test different designs - SSR header with a megaphone and without the megaphone.

I have a K-tuned 409 RSX header that I am not going to use. The slip joints are welded they has huge gap on the slip joints. I am selling it. However if I can get the extra time on the dyno . I will do the testing on both headers
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 · (Edited)
I have (2) oem slider bllots (fresh). Once the old Honds slider and slider bolts are removed. I will need to unlock/remove the oem slider. I am installing a SHG limiting lock slider. This simple and proven effective. I am going to get them as close as I can and do some simple triangle math to see how much the adjustable inner tie rods can shrink.

I got the front sway bar to install and finish strengthening the engine mount brackets. I am all most out of this engine bay and ready to install the engine. Finally, I need to remove all the soundproofing on the passenger floor board and make an exhaust tunnel underneath the chassis.

I need to get the steering rack under order and ready. I am waiting on oem parts in the mail though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 · (Edited)
An todays mission is to install the Hardrace Race Series Extended Roll center Adjusters. Start cleaning the hell out of the front and back brakes.

On a crazy note : order a 8ft piece of 1.25" chromoly with 8 other items. The rest of the items came quickly 2 days, the pipe got hung up for over a week in PA. I called Summit Racing asking for my pipe and he was quick to say your pipe is just laying on a loading dock be forgot about. So he 2 day'd me the pipe. 3 weeks later the pipe finally gets delivered. It is a $107 piece of pipe I am talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 · (Edited)
I will get some new pictures up soon of recent work and parts I ordered. I ran out of weld wire and had to special order two more rolls. I use 309 weld wire for stitch welding steel because it does not rust really. 309 is made to bond stainless steel and carbon steel (steel) correctly, I use it because it does not produce splatter balls and it leaves a very clean weld.

I am almost done with the engine bay work, I am stalled until the 309 wire comes in. What is left is stitch welding on the driver's side strut tower, driver side cowl connections, bracing inside of the cowl, bracing inside of the cowl where the OEM brackets for the strut bar design from the factory. Finally I really want to weld a 1.25" chromoly pipe (0.095" wall thickness) from strut tower to strut tower. From this bar I will be able to fabricate a brake booster brace. I will be able to install the engine and trans.

Here is a list of the new parts I have coming in :

-- PCI 4" aluminum side skirts (SS-RSX-4)
-- VIS Racing Wings Front Lip
-- SSR Race Header 2.0 RSX
-- Hardrace 26mm front sway bar bushings
-- Hardrace 21mm rear sway bar bushings
-- (2 qty.) -10 AN 150 degree hose end fittings for the Blox oil filter relocation kit
-- Vibrant -8AN check valve, -8AN straight hose end fittings, -8AN 45 degree hose end fitting
-- Battery Kill switch
-- Exhaust -10AN venturi fitting assembly
-- Russel -8AN 90 degree hose end fitting
-- OEM AC block off plate
Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
90682-SB0-003​
Grommet, Screw (5MM)​
$0.21​
2​
$0.42​
90108-S0A-003​
Bolt, Flange (6X15)​
$0.34​
10​
$3.40​
93407-08020-08​
Bolt-Washer (8X20)​
$1.25​
4​
$5.00​
94071-08080​
Nut-Washer (8MM)​
$0.90​
2​
$1.80​
90801-S5A-000​
Bolt, Flange (8X25)​
$2.44​
4​
$9.76​
90602-SX0-003​
Clip, Cowl Top​
$2.39​
2​
$4.78​
90602-S5A-003​
Clip, Cowl Top​
$2.69​
2​
$5.38​
91501-SM4-003​
Clip, Anchor​
$2.69​
1​
$2.69​
91501-SL4-003​
Clip, Front Cowl​
$3.01​
1​
$3.01​
93404-08035-08​
Bolt-Washer, 8X35​
$1.39​
4​
$5.56​
90108-S5A-000​
Bolt, Gear Box Mounting​
$2.96​
2​
$5.92​
90450-S6M-000​
Nut, Flange (10MM)​
$2.48​
2​
$4.96​
19352-PNA-000​
Seal, Water Outlet​
$3.05​
1​
$3.05​
16638-PNA-000​
Insulator, Fuel Pipe​
$4.94​
2​
$9.88​
16681-PRB-A00​
Cap, Pulsation Damper​
$4.91​
1​
$4.91​
94050-08080​
Nut, Flange (8MM)​
$0.56​
2​
$1.12​
95701-08020-08​
Bolt, Flange (8X20)​
$0.99​
2​
$1.98​
95701-10025-08​
Bolt, Flange (10X25)​
$1.41​
1​
$1.41​
--
90008-PNA-000​
Bolt (10X75)​
$4.26​
2​
$8.52​
90025-PNA-000​
Bolt, Special (8X105)​
$5.20​
1​
$5.20​
95701-08045-08​
Bolt, Flange (8X45)​
$1.40​
2​
$2.80​
90027-PND-A00​
Bolt, Special (10X50)​
$4.28​
1​
$4.28​
95701-12085-08​
Bolt, Flange (12X85)​
$2.75​
1​
$2.75​
95701-08018-08​
Bolt, Flange (8X18)​
$1.06​
4​
$4.24​
90163-S5A-000​
Bolt, Flange (10X20)​
$0.89​
4​
$3.56​
94050-12080​
Nut, Flange (12MM)​
$1.31​
3​
$3.93​
90168-S5A-000​
Bolt, Flange (12X35)​
$1.39​
1​
$1.39​
90371-S5A-000​
Nut, Yoke (12MM)​
$6.65​
1​
$6.65​
90380-S10-000​
Bolt, Stud (12X83.8)​
$7.18​
2​
$14.36​
94050-08080​
Nut, Flange (8MM)​
$0.54​
3​
$1.62​
53535-S5A-003​
Washer, Lock​
$3.90​
1​
$3.90​
95701-08020-08​
Bolt, Flange (8X20)​
$0.99​
4​
$3.96​
95701-06025-08​
Bolt, Flange (6X25)​
$1.09​
2​
$2.18​
54357-SF1-003​
Plate, Change Wire​
$4.91​
2​
$9.82​
90558-SF1-000​
Washer B, Select Wire (0.5MM)​
$2.40​
1​
$2.40​
90556-SF1-000​
Washer B, Shift Wire (0.5MM)​
$2.40​
1​
$2.40​
54119-S30-003​
Collar, Floating​
$2.41​
4​
$9.64​
15400-RTA-003​
Filter, Oil (Mahle Tennex)​
$5.48​
2​
$10.96​
24601-PNS-000​
Stay, Change Wire​
$22.56​
1​
$22.5​
-- 02-04 DC5 Type R front bumper brake scoops (I already have the ducts)

I am trying to find the correct Lokar SS throttle cable for my build.

I have am replacing the rear bumper and ordering the Type R rear bumper lip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 · (Edited)
Also I am starting to source a RRC intake manifold before they dry up. It seems I am going to stay on a mission collecting extra oem parts each month to be able to service my car for some time ahead. My build is starting to reach it's end as far as what I can replace or restore. What is left is wheels, door seals, new headlights, and a new rear bumper with a Type R rear lip.
 

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870 Posts
Discussion Starter · #192 · (Edited)
Just ordered some more OEM parts lol :p:

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
91208-PPP-003​
Dust Seal (14X20X4)​
$4.79​
1​
$4.79​
96220-40318​
Roller (4X31.8)​
$0.53​
1​
$0.53​
91207-PPP-003​
Dust Seal (18X24X5)​
$5.03​
1​
$5.03​
96220-40238​
Roller (4X23.8)​
$0.48​
1​
$0.48​
94301-08140​
Pin, Dowel (8X14)​
$1.38​
2​
$2.76​
93600-06014-0H​
Screw, Flat (6X14)​
$0.58​
1​
$0.58​
21399-PPP-000​
Plate, Breather​
$4.49​
1​
$4.49​
95701-06016-08​
Bolt, Flange (6X16)​
$0.96​
3​
$2.88​
53449-S5A-003​
Band, Bellows​
$2.91​
1​
$2.91​
53662-S5A-003​
O-Ring (11.5X1.5)​
$0.44​
2​
$0.88​
94109-20000​
Washer, Drain Plug (20MM)​
$0.84​
1​
$0.84​
94109-14000​
Washer, Drain Plug (14MM)​
$0.41​
1​
$0.41​
95701-06030-00​
Bolt, Flange (6X30)​
$1.15​
1​
$1.15​
90665-SB2-003ZY​
Clip, Trim (7MM) NH120L (Star Black)​
$4.15​
1​
$4.15​
90665-S5A-013​
Clip, Dust Seal Cover​
$2.01​
1​
$2.01​
53448-S5A-003​
Band B, Bellows​
$3.25​
1​
$3.25​
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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8,016 Posts
Wow, so much progress here, I can't keep up

I am I going to test different designs - SSR header with a megaphone and without the megaphone...I will do the testing on both headers
That would be amazing to see the differences. I know it is hard time to cover different setups at the dyno, but for the knowledge base it would be amazing :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Oh August heat...lol

I got after my 05-06 Type S front (25.4mm) and rear (21mm) sway bars, rear lower subframe brace, and front & rear sway bar mount clips. Cleaned, wire brushed, and sanded them to prep for high temp 350deg gray wrinkle paint. I taped off where the bushing will located. After the paint drying I am going to clear coat them. I am using Hardrace front (26mm) and rear (21mm) sway bar bushings.

I really should paint prep the rear subframe and paint that black. That will add some pop to the other parts near it and preserve the subframe.
Plant Wood Grass Woody plant Tints and shades

Plant Wood Brick Brickwork Grass
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
The extra hot days always help make a nice tight wrinkle , looks great 👍
Thanks brother, it means alot.
I am installing the sway bar back on the car. Will be sure to take some pics. Today is a mixture of tasks :

-- remove sound deadening
-- cont. fab on interior lower A-Pillar & lower firewall bracing
-- fab upper strut tower plates
-- fab rear strut tower plates & gusseting
-- fab front upper tower strut bar
-- install front and rear sway bars & new Hardrace sway bar bushings, OEM subframe brace (after paining subframe)
-- remove wheel spacers all around, remove rear rotors, rear OEM coils, remove rear trailing arm and replace trailing arm bushings

That is a strong list of tasks -- it is 6:40am I am heading out to the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 · (Edited)
Last night I ordered four of these HAMP oil filters because they were more than $7.00 cheap per filter than some popular online sites have them for sale for : $6.99 each

JDM Honda Hamp Synergy Small Oil Filter Green Made In USA
JDM Honda Hamp Synergy Small Oil Filter Green Made In USA


MADE IN USA by Filtech Inc., Part number is H1540-PFB-515.

BRAND NEW FACTORY SEALED Genuine JDM HAMP Oil Filter. Made in USA by Filtech Inc. and shipped to Japan. Size is Small (See last picture compared to the regular size filter, Small is on left). Measurement of the filter is: Width 2.75" and Height is 2.5". Hamp filters are designed to keep a more constant Oil Pressure, and raises oil pressure by about 5 psi. If you know JDM then you know this product needs no introduction. Hamp is Honda's Japanese aftermarket product "Hamp Synergy". The Hamp Synergy are set up after the Honda original parts products. These can be used on any Honda, but are specifically designed with Type Rs, and Type Ss in mind. Features to this item include a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the conditions within the filter to keep the flow and pressure constant. The HAMP oil filter will last longer and filter better than any other filter on the market. An item that is a definite must have for any B series or K series high performance high revving VTEC/iVTEC motors!

MADE IN USA by Filtech Inc. (Pictured below is exactly what you are getting!)

Fits: ALL 88-00 fuel injected Honda engines, as well as the 03' Civic Si, 06+ Civic and Civic Sis and the RSX, and RSX Type-S as well as H22A.
 
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