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I'm wondering if this product is good for an all motor K series setups.
Its going into an eh2, with the basics I/H/E/ kpro...and i'm wondering because i've heard that if its not installed far enough back, it can damage the valves do to loss of back pressure. If this is true, wheres a safe place to put this, while still gaining from its intended use.
I've found a couple different sites. First is a product from summit

Heres the link to this one's site...http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/
 

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dm95eg said:
and i'm wondering because i've heard that if its not installed far enough back, it can damage the valves do to loss of back pressure.[/IMG]
:confused: I don't follow this...

I say this time and time again. Pressure is a byproduct of flow. Pressure has absolutely no bearing on the merits of an exhaust system whatsoever. Flow capacity is the concern.

And I can't see how the increased flow capacity could damage the engine. If anything, I would think you'd want to put it as close to the engine as possible, to minimize piping and maximize gains.
 

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yea, what he said. i don't see how it would harm it. ive seen people use it on there turbo set ups that way tha exhaust doesn't have that far to flow i would quess. an plus people run open header or tune with open header so i don't see how it would harm tha motor at all
 

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this is a good idea but on that image I do not see how the flow is not blocked from going on the other direction.. Sure most exhaust air will go through the cut out, but not all of it, unless the stock route is blocked..

Another thing to consider is the different tune the motor will require to make more power... If you did see the latest RBC vs PRC dyno, tuned by locash , mdoyle's motor... you will see that when compared on full exhaust the difference is minimal... but on open header, there is a 18 whp difference.. so the tune does matter...

So ideally, if you were a major baller, you could...

Tune the car with exhaust and with open header... Buy a K100 on top of your K pro... and get some plugs to make a jumper harness... Install the Open header calibartion on the K100, and run a switch so when you enable the cutout... your turn off the car for a second and the k100 takes over.... That would a shitload of work just for a few HP.... I guess that would make more sense in a turbo car with racing gas vs pump gas and open header.. instead of having to break out the laptop and change calibrations
 

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I have some at the shop, they open very slow "about 4" seconds from fully open to fully closed, I was thinking about activating it with the window switch from nitrous control, but it would throw off your tune, open header has a tendency to lean out the motor so you gotta richen it a bit... you'd need at least a foot or so more, than your o2 to get proper o2 readings also...

like nikos said, they work better when the exaust gas is straigh, and put the muffler in the angled part, because otherwise you'll hear the noise more, but the excess presure will bleed from the side, not most of it, resulting in a partial bottleneck, but alot more noise.

the only thing about this design is the switch you have to turn and keep it turned to turn it on, and after about 4 seconds you have to let it go, otherwise your still "energizing" the motor which has reached the end and could burn out after a while.. so best to use a window switch for on off or do it manually.. it's hard to figure out exactly how long is good.. but i guess if the motor did burn out, any hobby shop could find another.
 

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i have one. yes they are VERY slow. mine takes up to 5 seconds to go from fully closed to fully open. not great if u want to surprise someone. but if you're prepping to open up, it's good. i have a RSX with supercharger. DC race header and then the cutout cut/welded into the stock B pipe. i still have a stock catback.

i did my tuning with 5psi supercharged with the cutout open. made max 253whp by advancing some ignition on 50deg cam angle map. With that map, I then reduced ignition -4 degrees for boost columns for safety. by using the nitrous control, I could re-add back those 4 degees of timing and i think about 300 units of fuel. The cutout WILL lean out your mixture by about 1 point. so add approx 10% fuel to compensate for it.

and be prepared when your knock sensor starts going crazy because the noise of open header sets off the pickup. and it wouldn't hurt for you to get a cheapo pair of ear plugs. when i was on the dyno and revving the engine to 8800rpm with open header...it was deafening.
 

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my advice, just run a full exhaust, consistent and constant power whereever and whenever you need it. i ran this before on my b-series n/a, forgot which brand but the one with lifetime warrenty, it broke on me 3 times and i just got sick of replacing it and sometimes it would just get stuck and when it is closed, sometimes it doesn't close all the way and it'll start rattling. and another con is if you do plan on racing scca nhra or whatever, you need a full exhaust anyways.
 

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krystar said:
by using the nitrous control

exactly what I was thinking....k100...nikos its so much easier :p
 
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