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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just wanted to get an idea if anyone would be interested.

There is a local company building aluminum rods for a great price. They are a fairly new company, but I am working to line them up with some of the sport compact applications. They have just finished design and FEA(finite element analysis) software stress analysis of a set of K24 rods they are building for me.
All parts are cut on the CNC; the FEA showed very good results, but we are going to build a couple and break them just to compare results to the software analysis.
I should have pictures in a couple weeks, the rods go for $400.00 for a set of 4.
 

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damn that's cheep, i'd like to see what kind of stress they could take...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
TeamPacman said:
Are you going to use this for street use??
The first set is just for the race car, however with a street application, it all depends, after I see the results from the physical breaking test and compare them to the software analysis I will make a decision on whether to get a set made for the street car.

kedimoto said:
im looking into getting some titanium rods made for race use
Yeah, these guys hope to have some titanium k series prototypes by summer. They just need some different tooling for the CNC.

On a side note, titanium is cool and all, but it has its drawbacks. Its very light and strong, but it can be brittle as well. If a force on titanium is great enough, it wont bend...it will break. With chromoly or aluminum you have a better chance of saving a catastophic engine failure because the rod MAY just bend instead of breaking. Just my opinion on rod material. I guess when I take my new 2.4L aluminum rods to 8K rpm ill find out if I am right...lol
 

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Race use...aluminum rods are fine due to limited usage.

Street use...how much do you value your block?

Titanium rods are fine for both, but pricey. They are used in the 1500+ HP Pro Mod Mountain Motors that are both supercharged and on the bottle, so the brittleness tag is a common misconception.

Most rod companies have gone to a heavy-duty steel rod design for high HP and a lighter version for N/A use. The new Crower Maxi-Light rods are about 100 grams lighter than the standard billet and deliver greater throttle response (like aluminum) but in a more reliable material (steel).

Thanks,

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CrowerCams said:
Race use...aluminum rods are fine due to limited usage.

Street use...how much do you value your block?

Titanium rods are fine for both, but pricey. They are used in the 1500+ HP Pro Mod Mountain Motors that are both supercharged and on the bottle, so the brittleness tag is a common misconception.

Most rod companies have gone to a heavy-duty steel rod design for high HP and a lighter version for N/A use. The new Crower Maxi-Light rods are about 100 grams lighter than the standard billet and deliver greater throttle response (like aluminum) but in a more reliable material (steel).

Thanks,

Brian

Im assuming this is Brian from Crower...I have spoken with you a few times over the phone. Ran your stroker kit in by B16 with 87mm pistons back in 02...ran good but the company that did the tuning decided to experiment with alcohol on my budget and melted a few sets...ha

I am also using your rods on my K20

Never had any complaints about crower rods, but when I am trying race on a personal budget...I kinda take what I can get.

Those maxi-light rods sound interesting though...
 

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YO Brian It Jeff from Motovicity..................you beat me to the punch on specifying what a Aluminum rod is good for and what a steel rod is good for...........dam I am suprised to see you got time to surf the web considering I wait on hold for hrs at a time to talk to you.....................JK
 

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jtuner77 said:
YO Brian It Jeff from Motovicity..................you beat me to the punch on specifying what a Aluminum rod is good for and what a steel rod is good for...........dam I am suprised to see you got time to surf the web considering I wait on hold for hrs at a time to talk to you.....................JK
It's called multi-tasking...like walking and chewing gum.
 

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CrowerCams said:
Race use...aluminum rods are fine due to limited usage.

Street use...how much do you value your block?

Titanium rods are fine for both, but pricey. They are used in the 1500+ HP Pro Mod Mountain Motors that are both supercharged and on the bottle, so the brittleness tag is a common misconception.

Most rod companies have gone to a heavy-duty steel rod design for high HP and a lighter version for N/A use. The new Crower Maxi-Light rods are about 100 grams lighter than the standard billet and deliver greater throttle response (like aluminum) but in a more reliable material (steel).

Thanks,

Brian

Whats the pric eof the Maxi-light rods for the k24???
 

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Race use...aluminum rods are fine due to limited usage.

Street use...how much do you value your block?

Titanium rods are fine for both, but pricey. They are used in the 1500+ HP Pro Mod Mountain Motors that are both supercharged and on the bottle, so the brittleness tag is a common misconception.

Most rod companies have gone to a heavy-duty steel rod design for high HP and a lighter version for N/A use. The new Crower Maxi-Light rods are about 100 grams lighter than the standard billet and deliver greater throttle response (like aluminum) but in a more reliable material (steel).

Thanks,

Brian

I'm looking on you web for the rods, but I don't see the specs and exact weight on grams for the K24...

Can you please send me or post that info?

Thanks!
 

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What's the whole myth with aluminum rods? Some ppl say they can take the abuse some can't. I've seen teams switch 5 passes and I've had friends run them all year from running mid 9s all year.
 
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