[archmage]

Hello everyone.

I'm not sure whether or not I'll be getting a K20a/k20a2/k20z1? - But it shouldn't matter too much. Leaning toward K20a...

Anyway, I eventually plan on going all-out turbo (re-sleeve, overbore, perhaps even custom crank stroke if $$ permits (maybe 90-92mm), gt35r turbo) - but that won't be until funds allow (2 years). So for now, it's the best return for the money all-motor.

Perhaps some suggestions here?
What I was thinking:

- 12.5:1 CP pistons (toluene or propane injection = octane should be fine)
- Headgasket (raise CR slightly more)
- Cold Air Intake (suggest which one?)
- Intake Manifold Gasket
- Bored stock Intake manifold and Throttle Body [I'd eventually want ITBs]
- Header (suggest for price/performance) [Turbo in 2 years; not sure if I want to spend on a DTR or prototype Racing or whatever - comments? Maybe they resell for good value? - then it's worth it = talk me into it]
- K-pro [I figure it's good for turbo too. any other options for K-series? Willing to spend more on this because it will work with future setup]
- HAsport stiff mounts (I need to research the need for axles and other DC2 swap components, but a link would be helpful - as I'm still unsure as to exactly everything that is needed/suggested)

This if for a swapped, stripped DC2-R Integra. I may ditch the CP piston idea as I can get close to 12:1 with a headgasket anyway.

Any other suggestions? Comments? I'm looking for near 250whp. Will my injectors be ok? Not familiar with the K-series yet.

Thanks.

 

[TeamPacman]

The best buck for the money is K20 type r motor...


With ITB's, k-pro, and DTR headers...


You should make around 230whp+ no problem...

No need to pull out the head for few Hp..It's not worth the time if you are not going to go all out with it...

If you don't like ITB's then Injen Cold Air is fine..Oh also get the hondata manifold gasket..

If you have more (Q) let me know...

 

[archmage]

So instead, just make the switch to ITB's sooner eh...perhaps, the 52mm TWM carbon setup looks nice --- I might have to run bored IM/TB for a while though, ITB = expensive

Injen intake meanwhile = gotcha.

DTR header eh... 800-900 there... is it worthwhile to get the 304 stainless option? - or just non-coated mild steel? - Aesthetics = non-issue.

I see no reason to mess with the rest of the head, so perhaps you're right there - but I could get about 12.8-13.0 CR with pistons and headgasket, vs. just 11.5 - should be good for more than just a few hp, no? I figure 10+ - I'll think about it.

I'm also considering lightweight flywheel - forgot about that one. It won't lessen parasitic loss much, but it'll be quicker.

 

[drhonda]

I would do k20/k24 setup with ITB's for now then when you go turbo it would be sick. 12.5 compression seems a bit high for turbo. If your on a budget i would get the k20a2 if your going to go turbo anyway instead of the k20a.

I wouldn't lighten the flywheel if you plan on going turbo or NA. It would let it be. yes it will rev faster but i don't feel its necessary.

 

[archmage]

- I wouldn't run 12.5 compression for turbo of course, but the pistons I have now won't matter ---> I'll be resleeving and overboring when I go turbo (and remember, that's a good 2 years off, so I want some nice power in the mean time).

- I don't like the k24 really because of the damned stroke...I like to have 8k+ RPM redline. I'd prefer a 90-92mm stroke maybe, but I'd take regular K20 over the k24.

- ITB's ---> Eventually...they'll be mine ---> Carbon fiber construction for minimal heat retention = sexy.

- As for the k20a2 = Yea I'm still considering it.

If I change out/add:

LSD
ITB's or IM/TB
Header
12.5 CR pistons

- Besides the Cams and the Final Drive, what other advantages would the K20a have?

Can't remember: Valves/valvesprings = better? Is the crank the same damned thing, or better weighted/balanced somehow? Stronger/Lighter rods? Any other small things here and there? Injectors?

If there are many small differences, I think I'd just go with the k20a. I need to find out ALL the small differences now...I know most of the commonly mentioned ones, but I've never seen a thorough list in one source.

 

[k20Achick]

The best thing that I can tell you from a Chick is you to listen to Teampacman

 

[joestypes]

The best thing that I can tell you from a Chick is you to listen to Teampacman

:bsflag: this is pacman posing as a girl

 

[k20Achick]

:bsflag: this is pacman posing as a girl

No it's not him. My name is Brenda Lopez.


I know who pacman is. I use to post at honda-tech but he is here now. I like the dude.

Trust me that is the last thing Marouj wants to be, a girl. LOL

 

[k20Achick]

:bsflag: this is pacman posing as a girl

I have a AIM and if you don't believe me we can chat and see.

 

[fearless_dsm]

Damn,Pacman..another fricken groupie!! (I kid,I kid ...welcome to the site!)

But seriously,the k20a bottom end is nearly identical to the k20a2 (plus some compression)...the crank MAY be balanced for a slightly higher rpm,but from what I understand,the rods are identical.

In my opinion,if you are going into the engine,there isnt enough difference between the A and A2 to justify spending the extra cash on the A swap.

If you just want a stock,reliable,quick engine...go with the K20a and K-pro...enough power with just bolt ons and tuning to blow most cars away.

If you plan on boosting,but want decent power for now,go with the A2.The only difference in that would be the tranny gearing..You dont want ultra quick gearing on a turbo car...wont be much fun.The A2 will have plenty of power with bolt ons,and should be able to take out most stock camaro's and mustangs.

 

[909edge]

The A2 will have plenty of power with bolt ons,and should be able to take out most stock camaro's and mustangs.

lol @ this... you gotta aim higher than that, I took out stock camaros and mustangs when I used to have my 170hp b16. With K20A + good driving you should be able to take out stock CORVETTES. Now there's a worthy goal

 

[909edge]

Oh and I have a question based on all the compression #s you are throwing out - is this a street car and will you be running it on pump gas?

IMO 11.5:1 compression is near the limits of 91 octane pump gas (California gas is shitty). 12:1 is doable with good tuning and the right cams, my bseries runs about 11.8:1 and does not detonate on pump. You have to understand that cams with a lot of overlap can lower the motor's dynamic compression thus making it possible to run higher static compression without detonation. However, I really don't think you are gonna do to well with anything much higher than 12:1.

If you really feel the need to prove me wrong, call Jeff over at Importbuilders. If I recall correctly, he claims to be able to build motors with 13:1 or higher that run on pump gas.

 

[fearless_dsm]

Wtf dude... Pimpin aint easy...

 

[909edge]

Wtf dude... Pimpin aint easy...

lol man what time is it where you are? isn't it like 3 something?

 

[archmage]

Pimpin' ain't easy?

- I will be running 91 octane + either propane injection or Toluene for about 94-95 octane minimum. It is a street car, but I'm not too worried; I've dealt with this before. I agree that it'd be too much for plain 91 octane though...the tune would have to be ultra-conservative...

- You guys think the K20a2 tranny has better gearing for a turbo car? What about a tracked turbo car - as in road-courses, track racing. I was always a fan of shorter gearing, but not too short (Type R tranny seems perfect).

- I guess it'll come down to what I can find a good deal on now.

One more thing: For a larger turbo setup (garrett gt35r, 400+ whp) - would you figure there'd be an aftermarket cam more capable than the stock k20a cam, 2 years from now? If not, A>A2 cam for turbo, or too aggressive a cam? Even if I saw cam-profile information, I wouldn't know what to expect from the K-series as I have nothing to compare it to

I wish ROCKET motorsports would start developing for K-series...and cater to the FI guys as well...

Edit: I think this is pretty obvious, but this should be a kickass car sooner or later...no, wait, it already is. It should be a kickass engine

 

[josh green]

why waste that much money to build it all motor if your going to go turbo later?drive the thing around stock for a while and then get your money up. Hell you could even buy the turbo kit and put it on and run it on the stock motor until then as well. I dont understand why you want to run such high compression when you are all motor, high compression can make power with everything in tune but you can make nearly the same power on lower compression with less hastle. I dont think I would go any higher than 11.8 if it is street driven. Yes you can have 12.5:1 and run on pump gas (93) but if your cams, headwork, header, intake, etc... dont work well together then you will be very unhappy and spent alot of money.

 

[nikos]

Someone on here has a Integra DC2 k20a R with a JRSC... Made around 280 whp. Now that is a worthy $2500 upgrade.

 

[TeamPacman]

fearless_dsmDamn

Pacman..another fricken groupie!! (I kid,I kid ...welcome to the site!)

Hey, what can I say. HAHA